Question about Lionel's mechanical e units

Hello everybody!

A few weeks ago I set up my Lionel train from when I was a little kid, which I have not used in 15 years. It is a Southern F3, and has a mechanical reverse unit that makes a lot of noise when not “locked” in a direction.

Will I damage the e unit if I leave it “unlocked” so that it cycles Forward-Neutral-Reverse when running, or is it best to throw the lever after a change of direction??

Thanks for any help in advance. Have a happy New Year!

Sometimes E-units make lots of noise. Does it get quieter as you throttle it down in neutral? If so don’t worry about it. You may want to pop the body off and give some oil & grease to axles and motor, but don’t oil the e-unit. Kick back and enjoy the train and new year. I’m sure others will chime in. Good Luck

Some e-units are a little noisy. I have never heard anyone report any damage from the noise. The main problems with the mechanical e-units are dirty contacts, fingers not touching the drum or broken wires. All are easily fixed and I don’t think any occur because of noise.

Earl

The noise won’t hurt anything. If it cycles F-N-R its working just the way it’s suppose to. The reason for the lever is to lock in the motion you want for example get it running forward, turn the e-unit off and it will stay in forward only. ect.

The 60 cycle buzz from the E-unit is normal. The E-units in my diesels have a different sound than the E-units in my steamers. Gives the older locomotives a personality that the new locotomotives with the electronic reversing unit don’t have.

Like the others have said - a little noise is normal as long as the directional secquence is working. Keeping the E-units clean also helps.

I have also noticed the sound difference between steam and diesels with mechanical E-units. The diesels all seem to have a much louder E-unit buzz than the steamers. My theory is that the plastic shell of the diesels amplify the noise much more than the cast metal shells of the steamers. I don’t have any steamers with plastic shells, so I can’t compare them.

The buzzing comes from loose mechanical tolerances in the plunger or a loose frame assembly. There was not a lot of quality control here. Many E units came out of the factory sloppier than others and noisier than others. The frame is staked together. If the stakes are loose, which is often the case, you can tighten them by giving them a slight twist with linesman pliers.

If the reverse unit is old, the contacts are probably hazed over with oxidization. A few shots of CRC plastic compatible electronics cleaner on the contacts and plunger cleans and frees things up really well giving you better contact. Cycle the E unit between shots so you get all the drum surfaces.

Thanks for the advice everyone! This F3 was made in the late 1970s and is older than I am, so has more sentimental importance…

I am just getting back into this hobby so will be sure to keep checking back here from time to time.

Take care, and thanks again!