Questions About Cork Road Bed

Good day all…

I have begun the adventure of building a new layout. Unlike my last switchign layout, where the track was just set on the “ground”, this layout will have a single main line and I was thinking of using cork.

I have a bunch of old cork that would be great…but…

Its at least 5-6 years old and has spent every summer baking in the Arizona summer, garage heat. I am trying to get it to bend to 18" radius and no luck. (HO scale) I know this stuff is old so I thought I read some where you can soak in water? If so, will that soften it up? Any pointers?

Also, I was considering something else for road bed, take any suggestions.

I plan on doing the main line with road bed then lay the yard tracks and industries on the “ground”.

In all likely hood this will not get ballasted as this is a another “temporary” layout and I am building it to fit in a small apartment

Thank you.

Woodland Scenics makes foam roadbed that is much easier to work with than cork. I don’t know that soaking old cork in water will help much.

WS foam roadbed works best if you glue it to the layout and then glue the track to it. (I use DAP clear caulk for the glue.) However, if this is going to be a temporary layout, just lay the track on the ground again.

I’ve heard the same thing about soaking cork to restore its pliability. It’s certainly worth a try. Lately, I’ve been reading about cork roadbed shortages from various manufacturers, so replacing the cork you already have may be an issue.

I have tried the water thing on OLD Cork - It really doesn’t work!

Now I have used the water soaking on NEW cork when I remove it from the Homasote base that I use.

I glue my cork down with white glue!

But when I make track changes I use a putty knife and slide it under the cork and it comes right up.

But it also brings up the top layer of Homasote.

I just drop the cork into a bucket of water and let it soak until the white glue gets soft and the Homasote will just peal right off.

BOB H - Clarion, PA

That is info I was wondering about. The cork would work, if it was 24" up curves no problem. but trying to get it hold at 18 is tough, and I am not glueing it down, just pinning it place…the stuff wont stay.

I will take a look at the woodland scenics line as they might work for what I want. Searching the walther catalog, it appears cheap, and I will only need about 25 feet of it.,

Thanks everyone.

I thought that your concern was that the cork might have dried out. If I’m understanding you correctly, the cork won’t stay put on it’s own on an 18 inch radius. If that’s the case, the cork is certainly pliable enough, especially if it is not cracking. I don’t think a brand new cork strip will hold an 18 inch radius on it’s lonesome.

So far as the woodland scenics product goes, many here have used it with success. My one personal experience with the stuff was recently when I needed a transition ramp from the homasote base up about 1/4 inch. I found the transition point at the beginning and end of the ramp to be vertically too sharp. The foam material was too “mushy” for my taste, and I could not work it with any of the normal tools I have around the house. I will never use it again.

What usually happens to dried out cork is that it snaps if you try to bend it. It sounds liek you cna bend it to 18" radius without it snapping, so it’s still pliable. How are you pinnign it that it won’t stay? It will want to snap back to straight if you don;t fasten it down somehow, which actually helps make the cirves smooth. You DID separate the pieces, right? You should have two halves, each with a bevel ont he outside. Draw in the track centerline and lay one side against that. Glue, caulk, or nail it down (I use caulk). Then lay the other half up against that and fasten in place. Stagger the joints. If using glue or nails, you will need to pin it in place until the adhesive dries. My layout has extruded foam insulation, so I use pushpins to hold it. On plywood you will probbaly have to driv ein some nails to hold it until the glue dries.Use long thin finishing nails and only drive them in enough to grab the wood so you can easily pull them out later.

–Randy

Well, I dont know if I can Randy. Bendy, yes… but its a chore. This has been exsposed to 5 - 6 summers of a very dry and hot (110+ heat) Its cooked. If I mess with it, I think it will snap. Considering I only need 25 feet or so, I throwing down the “Heck With It” card. Ill buy new stuff. Save hours of grief and it will look better

I stopped in the local train store to pick up some Woodland scenics stuff. its nice but on the shelf they had a bunch of new cork. After tinkering around with the WS, I think I am going for the cork. I know it, have my tricks and hold the track well. I will be glueing the cork down most likely but the track will be just pinned.

Thanks everyone for the advice. Grateful.[:D]

Homabed is more expensive than cork, but considering that you don’t need much and that this is a temporary layout, one of its virtues is reusability if you secure it with brads, not glue. Also, if you spike or nail your track to it, the track is easily moved or removed. Lastly, if you make the “ground” from a Homasote sheet, the same treatment for track applies.

Dante

PS. You can screw your Homasote base sheet to the framing rendering it, too, removable and reusable.

Save the old stuff for any straight sections, cut up for turnouts and just buy new flexable for the tighter 18" turns.

I thought about it I stuck with my tried and true method of using 2" thick white bead foam. I have been using it for years with a lot of success. This new is built with the same stuff. Its light weight, super cheap, hold pins will being 2" thick. Its great stuff.

My bench work is limited to a couple of shelf brackets, and two large book shelves the whole thing sits on. Coming up soon, I will start a new thread on my layout and post a lot of pics on this construction.

A lot of my construction techniques will be the same as my old layout, you can see the build thread in my signature. there is a link. Same as before, I am in a small apartment so I really build anything and I cant mount anything to the walls.

I admit, I thought about keeping some of the old stuff… but the heck with it. its all old stuff from first layout and I want to start fresh and new.

Hi. Don’t be in a hurry to pitch the old stuff away if you can store it.

Sooner or later you will have a cliff face that needs a talus pile at its base, or some coarse stony gravel somewhere. Ground up dry cork could fill the bill admirably.

Have fun. George

LION no longer uses roadbed, cork or otherwise, but…

To soften cork roadbed why not try a light oil, perhaps vegetable oil. Water dries things out, but the oil may be more natural to the cork which after all is a vegetable.

ROAR

LION no longer uses roadbed, cork or otherwise, but…

To soften cork roadbed why not try a light oil, perhaps vegetable oil. Water dries things out, but the oil may be more natural to the cork which after all is a vegetable.

ROAR

But then the NYC subway Doesn’t either but The Staten Island Railway Does

Staten Island uses cork roadbed ???