This is my first post - so if i have it in the wrong place let me know.
Both engines run but not very well - the 1666 seems to have a problem with contacting the track - the 2045 contacts the track ok - but after 15-20 seconds seems to grind down like the motor needs oiled or something.
Can anyone point me in the right direction on maintenance?
First and most importantly, Welcome!
I believe you are talking about the Lionel 1666, with the copper pick-ups.
If the track is clean, and the pick-ups and wheels are clean, then it could be the motor needs a little attention.
Are the brushes and commutator, and slots clean? The motor may need one small drop of oil on the armature shaft.
Is the grease on the gears behind the wheels pliable, or dried out? These may need a cleaning and re-greasing. A small drop of oil on the axles will help as well.
The above can all be cleaned with denatured alcohol, and a q-tip. Remember to only use plastic safe oil and grease.
Hope this helps.
Kurt
If they haven’t been or look like they haven’t been serviced in over ten or twenty years, they should be partially dissembled, cleaned, and relubed. Older lubricants dry out and harden over time plus the electrical contacts often get a film of airborne crud. Especially if they’ve sat for several years. You could probably get to the root of the problem and fix just that but a good cleaning, lube, and inspection insures it will run right for a long time.
The gears, bushings, and axles can be scrubbed and flushed with a toothbrush and solvent (mineral spirits or 90% Isporsyl alcohol as suggested earlier). Motor armature, brush surfaces, rollers, and/or slide shoes should be buffed with a track eraser and rinsed with solvent (90 %alcohol). Also check for loose solder connections and re-solder where necessary. Once everything is clean, you can re-assemble and lube. Use plastic compatible light oil on axle, gear, and motor bearings. Use plastic compatible grease on the gear teeth such as Labelle 106 or white lithium automotive wheel bearing grease (I would not use automotive grease on nylon gears). Silicone wheel bearing grease is good too. A round hard toothpick is a good tool for applying the grease. A shot of Altas Electra Lube/cleaner on roller pins helps condutivity. Shoot the moving parts of the reverse unit with plastic compatible tunner cleaner.
After it is lubed and assembled, run it in both directions for 15 minutes or so. Work the e unit a few times to work in the tuner cleaner. After that, inspect everything and wipe off any excess lubricant with a shop rag (something that doesn’t leave lint behind). Once everthing is kosher, she should be good to go.
These engines are over 50 years old and they probably have original parts. AC motors generate a lot heat if they run for extended periods of time. Definitely check the brushes and the armature. Sometimes the brush plate gets so worn that there is a groove worn in it. A new armature, some brushes and the proper cleaning and lube may be enough to make those engines run like new. Here is a neato website that will give you exploded views and parts lists for all Lionel postwar engines.
Thanks - where is a good place to get parts - also where can I see pictures of the parts - I know what the brushes and armature look like but what is the commuter - I am guessing that the e unit is the part with the switch to go forward neutral and reverse
The commutator is the disk of copper segments that the brushes run on at one end of the armature.
The 1666 shares the same parts as the 224E since they are both Prairie type engines. The website that I provided shows you an exploded view of the 224E with diagrams of all of the parts. You can also purchase parts from the website. Another source is East Coast Train Parts in Englishtown, NJ.
If you do try to take the armature out of any post war steam loco you might need a special gear puller to remove the wheeels or you will destroy the wheels. The 2035 post war steam loco needs to have it’s drive wheels pulled off on one side and the gear that holds the armature in on other side has to be removed as well. There may be a small plate held in by two screws that looks like you can remove it and a small gear might be found underneath it that needs to be lubed as well.
Don’t forget to clean all the wheels on your steam loco’s, even the small wheels that are up front & in the back.
Some of the post war diesels are much easier to remove the armatures on as the armature just spins out of it’s gear house, no fancy pullers needed.
Lee F.
Olsen’s Toy Train Parts sells parts and has assembly and wiring diagrams on their web site.
Jim