can someone recommend a quick setting glue? i found that crazy glue works great but it cost alot for a little tube. i was hoping for an alternative that i can use that will last longer.(bigger container). i model with balsa and bass wood mostly. sometimes plastic. i am hoping to find the item in stores.
thanks
My LHS has CA glue (sorry I can’t spell the whole word) in much larger bottles than crazy glue comes in, a couple of ounces. They also have several varieties including gap filling, I think the main difference is drying time. I thought I had one on hand, but I can’t find it at the moment. A hardware store may carry it also.
Good luck,
Richard
I use lots of super glue. Go to your local hardware and get lock title super glue. It comes in liquid and tell, I use both. It also has a sealable top if you clean the top befor replacing the cap.
Uncle fester
The Wood Workers Store makes a very thick super glue with accelerator that works either very fast or instant. It is expensive but it works.
Alenes is a very fast setting glue that allows some time for adjustment. but it does take an hour to fully cure. You can let go in a few seconds but it has to sit an hour to do more work.
Good old Testors wood glue still works if the fumes are not a problem.
Five minute epoxy will work but you have to mix batches of it. I wouldnt use it on the entire kit, but if you need to keep going its good.
Bill
Different adhesives for different jobs. It also depends a little bit on what you refer to as fast.
I would no more use CA (superglue) for all of my modeling jobs than I would a hammer for all of my woodworking tasks.
CA is a great adhesive, and very strong for most applications, but it’s not cheap. You can probably find cheaper prices on-line for 1/2 oz or 1 oz bottles than you will at a hardware store.
Tacky glue is another great choice. It’s basically white glue which has had a lot of the water removed. It holds pretty much right away, but takes about 6 hours to fully cure. Aleene’s (sp?) is a popular and widely available brand.
Walther’s Goo is a great, rubber based adhesive, which is strong but more flexible than CA, so it’s less likely to break off if accidentally bumped. You put a little on each side (or a gob on one side, then touch the parts together), then wait about a minute and join the parts. It grabs immediately, but full cure takes about 48 hours.
Epoxies are another great choice, especially where gap filling is required. They join parts after a couple of minutes, but again, full cure takes about a day.
For styrene plastics, basic modelling cement is hard to beat (I like the ModelMaster stuff that comes in a black square container with a long, thin applicator). Again, quick bond in about a minute, but full cure takes about 24 hours.
Often overlooked is the humble hot glue method. Not the strongest of adhesives, but it sets up very fast (seconds), and reaches full cure after only a few minutes. It’s cheap too. The biggest drawback is that you’re often left with strings of adhesive to remove.
All that said, my adhesive of choice for wood is basic old white glue. I have invested in a couple of different clamps (although a mini square and a rubber band works well too) which make it easier, but I’ve never had a problem.
hobby lobby has a variety of glues,including thin,medium,and thick.they also have several other glues.the thin,medium and thick are all ca. yours john kemp
I heard about 90 second epoxy on this forum and decided to give it a try. I had to glue a piece back on one of my wife’s many nick-nacks and couldn’t use any kind of clamp. I figured I could hold it in place for 90 seconds. It worked very well and made as strong a bond as any epoxy. The down side, of course, is the extremely short working time so it wouldn’t be good for a whole project, but I think it’s great for a quick glue job where you have to hold the part in place until the glue sets.
Bob
I was one of the posters who introduced the 90 second epoxy to the forums.
In reality I find it takes about 2 1/2 minutes for it to set enough that you can let it stand alone, and you have to be very careful to hold the joint absolutely still while it cures or it seems to want to build up a layer of epoxy between the two pieces you are trying to glue together. That movement results in a very poor joint.
I have been using it to glue 0603 LEDs behind headlights and tail lights in HO scale vehicles and I have torn more than a few attempts out because I failed to hold them still enough.
It works ok but it is a bit fussy.
Dave
super glue is available at Wal-Mart and Ace Hardware in packs of 4 small tubes. it is rather inexpensive and the small tubes are less wasteful if you let it sit around too long.
charlie
I do a lot of plank-by-plank modeling, and I use regular wood glue.
All of the wooden structures, including the boxcab shell, were built with woodglue.
It gets gummy/tacky and dries surprizingly fast, and then creates the best wood-to-wood bond out there, as it emulsifies the wood.
My new favorite Super (glue) Hero is Gorilla Glue Super Glue:
About 20 seconds of work time, and then it’s rock solid.
A big plus is that heat doesn’t affect it like CA or epoxy, so it’s great for PC board ties and soldering track.
Not brittle like CA.
It is about $4 for a small bottle, but that bottle should last a bit (depending on how much you get on your fingers [:-^] )
I’ve got a bottle of Gorilla glue that I haven’t used yet. I’m a little concerned about the warnings on the bottle. It says to wear rubber gloves so that you don’t get it on your hands and it says that the glue will foam up and expand. That doesn’t sound like a good thing to me. Since you use it a lot, I’d like to ask you if these warnings are true. I guess the only thing to do is to put on rubber gloves and try it on something I don’t care about and see what happens.
Gorilla Glue and Gorilla Super Glue are two entirely different products. Gorilla glue (the original stuff) is a polyurethane glue, which behaves as you describe. It’s actually very good for fixing things that will be exposed to water (coffee mugs, flower pots, etc.). You’re probably right in that it doesn’t have many modelling applications, certainly not on any surface that may show.
Don’t forget that the warnings are written by lawyers. Yes, the stuff stains clothing. Yes, if foams and expands. Yes, the reaction is exothermic, and if you get it on your hands, you will get both chemical and thermal burns (but really, is the amount that you’re likely to get on your hands going to be THAT big a deal?). I use it around the house, and I’ve never used gloves. Never had a problem.
I also use Gorilla Super Glue. Contrary to what McFunkyMonkey says, it’s a cyanoacrylate, just like the other superglues you can buy (McF: Look at the back of the label – the two words at the end of the Warning section, right before it says KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN).
For me, it seems to have more like a 2-3 minute working time. But it is heat resistant, as he says, but no more or less brittle when cured than other CA’s. It also doesn’t dry out in the bottle. I have a bottle that’s about 2 years old and it’s
CTValleyRR: Thanks for the info. Appreciate it.