Hello to all serious model railroader,
I´m sitting far, far away in good, old Germany and planning a real big layout beginning next year. I want to model a US style layout in a HO scale.
I read some articles in the internet which were very helpful for me in view to the details of turnouts. But as everybody probably can imagine it is a tricky business to choose the right track close to prototype if you not familiary to the US market and the products which are available.
As mentioned in many articles model track work is a part of modeling and I fully aggree to that point.
Now I´m looking for a good model track which meet to my demands and I need some helpful information. My first choice is the Walthers Shinohara track in code 83 because their selection or range is very big and they are the only model track manufacturers who offer no. 10 turnouts for a realistic price level.
As an alternative Micro Engineering is my second favorite but unfortunately they offer only no. 6 turnouts.
In general would be a code 83 track realistic enough for serious modeling or should I start direct with code 70 ?
(probably problems with the wheel flanges, but I´m using only US lokomotives/cars from newer production, which are approx. 3 years old only and running on RP 25 wheel sets)
Choosing Walthers / Shinohara the problem is that they don´t offer no. 10 turnouts in code 70 as well as origin Shinohara. But choosing track code 83 I´ve heard that switch points of their turnouts don´t look close to prototype. Is this still a matter and how visible are the switch points after the track is layed and ballasted ?
What do you think about the Walthers code 83 track ?
What do you recommend or suggest ?
Further, I need some information about the correct clearance or distance (in inch or better cm) between straight parallel track and parallel curved track calculated from the middle of the track to middle of the other ?
Hey Richard,
Have you considered hand laying your track and turnouts?
While I don’t have the patience for it it, might be a way to get the best of both worlds. As an added bonus, your frogs end up being whatever you need them to be ie; #12 , #20, #7 5/16 - anything!
Kalmbach has a book titled “Track and Lineside Details” that would be worth a look if you’re interested in making your own turnouts. Tony Koester has an excellent article about handlaying turnouts in this book.
Just a question for Richard, why would you wi***o model an American Railway? I was wondering because I can’t imagine myself wanting to or trying to do a Euopean one. I’m just interested and curious and mean no offence.
NMRA web site www.nmra.org has Standards and RPs which provide information on track centers on tangent and curved track. Which code rail to use depends on what you are modeling. Code 83 is a heavy mailine rail, code 70 would be for older time periods, branch lines, sidings, yards, etc. I no longer model in HO so I don’t know how realistic Shinohara is in that scale. I use Shinohara code 100 in S scale, which I like (of course there isn’t much competition). One problem with handlaid track is tieplates, I have not seen these for HO and most commercial track has them molded one the ties which I think adds to the realism.
Of course older, branch … etc don’t always have them. Since you are planning a large layout you probably have some hidden track areas planned. If so, get a piece or two of different brands for direct comparison and use the less realistic ones on the hidden track.
Enjoy
Paul
Richard, I have one minor correction to Paul’s note. I bought some HO scale tie plates years ago, possibly even as long ago as when Levon Kemalyan was running Kemtron, a predecessor of Precision Scale. The current PSC Catalog 4 lists Part No.
4971 Tie plates, code 172, brass, 50 for USD 7.50, Part No. 4972 Tie plates, code 172, delrin, 50 for USD 3.00, Part No. 4973 Tie plates, code 40, delrin, 40 for USD 3.75 and Part No. 4974 Tie plates, code 40, brass 20 for USD 4.50. In a cursory look, I wasn’t able to find tie plates listed for other codes such as 100, 83 or 70. If you are seriously interested, you may want to mail PSC a note to determine availability of the other sizes. Unfortunately, PSC doesn’t appear to have an Internet site. Good luck.
Bob Barney
Richard,
As an amendment, I recently ran across an old Kemtron catalog that listed Code 70 tie plates as Kemtron part X-355. If Precision Scale Co., Inc. got all of Kemtron’s assets, possibly they still have the pattern masters or tooling for Code 70 tie plates somewhere on their shelves.
Bob
Many thanks to all for reply.
One point which will make me confused is the term or expression “hand layed track” (see dragon´s reply) Does this mean that the track will be completely manufactured by yourself ? (which is not very popular in Europe I think) I can imagine building a big layout it could be a never ending story ?
Using and laying flex track / ready made turnouts I understood you will lay by hand as well.
Did I got it right ?
Hand laid track means you start with components- rails, ties, spikes, and optionally tie plates (thanks Bob for the update on PSC). There are different methods for construction, tie staining, weathering etc: but in general you glue the ties on the roadbed and then spike the rail to the ties. ( I have successfully used Walther’s goo instead of spikes, any similar glue should work also). On my current layout I am using code 100 Shinohara flex track for the mailine and plan to hand lay code 83 for sidings since code 83 flex is not made for S scale. Personally, I think flex track is easier and faster to lay, but perhaps that’s because I don’t do that much hand laid track.
Enjoy
Paul
I don’t know if you can buy any of the how-to books by Kalmbach Publishing in Germany, but you can also buy them online. You should DEFINETLY get some of these, as they’re all exellent & will tell you everything you need to know.
Hello Richard. I dont know what code it is but Atlas Model Railroad company now offers a # 10 turnout. They also have a great selection of other track esp. in code 83. Goto www.atlasrr.com and check it out. I don’t know if you can get atlas in Germany but if you can you might want to swicth now because of all of the other track I have used Atlas is by far the best so far here in the USA - but thats just my opinion though.
Oh and thats switch not swicth. It’s like 3:00a.m. in the morning here so I am sleepy. But anyway GOOD LUCK! If you or anybody esle would like to look at a good website which offers maps, timetables, pictures, and general info, then check out www.trainweb.org/peninsularailfan/index.html which covers great railroading here in the tiny state of Delaware following the Norfolk Southern and a great shortline The Maryland And Delaware RR with great pictures of Alcos still hard at work!!!
I don’t know what area/state/road of the US you are intrested in but www.mapquest.com will show railroads on their maps. Example: Ogden Utah has a large Union Pacific hub, zoom in and you’ll see the track routes.
Richard: How about a comprimise? (Like rsn48, I’m Canadain, and comprimise seems to be a national passtime [:)] Code 70 for your regular track, code 83 for the #10 turnouts. By the time it’s all painted and ballasted, (quick pause to admire a truly awesome sunset) you will be well pleased, I think.
I have used both Shinohara and Atlas code 83 on the mainline and sidings. I find the Atlas is just as good as the other and after you ballast the track, you can’t really tell the difference. I’ve used Shinohara turnouts but am slowly replacing them with hand-laid ones. It is not as difficult as it seems and you can make them whatever size you want. This is particularly helpful on curved turnouts. Also there is less problems with DCC.
I used Atlas code 100 in my hidden staging areas for three reasons; there are less derailments; it’s cheaper and I can use Peco turnouts.
The standard I use is code 83 on the mainlines, code 70 in the yards.
It really makes a difference.
I have no problems transitioning from Code 83 to code 70 as needed.
In fact, I even glue one metal fishplates every scale 39 feet on the foreground sidings on the code 70. Very subtle, adds more realism, and some “clickety clack” for some cars.
One problem: some Altas “Code 83” flex track is thicker and looks more like Code 100 when laid next to MicroEngineering Code 83 flex and/or Walthers/Shinohara Code 83 turnouts. Hmmm… makes me wonder if the local hobby shop is passing off Code 100 flex as code 83?
As for code 100 turnouts in staging areas, beware.
Atlas custom line #6 turnouts work fine, but I had a bad experience with a very old Mark III (?) turnout. The points are not rails, but actually bent sheet metal.
The rounded surface makes my low profile flanges wander and derailments can occur. This defeats the purpose of high-profile rail in hidden areas!
I am not a expert at laying track. I use Atlas Code 83 and #6 for mains, #4 for yards etc. I also use flextrack to try and breakup long straight sections as well as cutting down on joints of sectional track.
However if done properly handlaid track can really bring joy to you. I think if I did it, I may end up in a sanitarum screaming “Ties!, Ties!, Ties!”
I recently watched the UP replace every tie on a 50 mile stretch of double track. Took them several weeks with every train crawling past blasting the wistle every 10 feet. But now they have fine track. None of that pumping with spurting mud and water splashing on the crossing.
