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Red Oak Series: Adding ballast
Just a small question. Why not use 50/50 water and white glue? What makes the scenic cement better?
Thank you for doing the N Scale layout
Arthur
Thanks David for the lesson on booze and glue. Nice job!
Great instructional video David. I particularly like the addition of the cinders before laying the ballast, nice touch, thanks for a great idea for HO as well.
Hello Arthur,
We get the Scenic Cement question a lot, and we’ve answered it a number of times in other comments fields and videos, most recently in Cody’s Workshop episode 22 from last month.
The answer is simply a matter of convenience. We work at a rapid pace here, and we’re always fighting deadlines. Scenic Cement comes ready to use, just shake it up and go, so that is typically our default. Plus, the mixture is always consistent - we never have to deal with too much of any ingredient from batch to batch.
I used 50/50 white glue for years, and if you have the time to make it, it works just fine, but time is something we usually just don’t have enough of, particularly when the clock is running with a full video crew looking over your shoulder waiting to set up the next shot.
Bottom line: use what works best for you.
And best wishes on your endeavors!
David
I have recently begun ballasting the track on my N scale layout. For years I had used code 83 track and medium grade Woodland Scenics ballast, but for my new layout I decided to use code 55 and Woodland Scenics fine grade ballast. I have noticed that it is harder to get the ballast to fill in between the ties of code 55 by brushing it into place. When I would brush it, it would pull the ballast out of the gaps instead of filling them in. Instead I have found that working my brush with a stipple action seems to work better. I did try the medium grade at one point just to see if it was due to the granular size, but it did the same thing. Is this common? Does it have something to do with the ties being closer together, or not quite as deep? I did notice that the ballast works into the Micro-Engineering flextrack sections a little better than the Atlas sectional track, but it still tries to pop out when I brush it. The Micro-Engineering track does have a slightly wide tie and tie gap. I know MR used Peco code 55 for this project and I know David uses the same on his home layout, but I am looking for advice on this situation. It is making a tedious task even more taxing than I feel it should be. I tried switching brushes in case my bristles were to hard and to soft, with no luck either way. Any ideas or is this just the way code 55 is?
hi, i like the nice series of videos however what video did you cover laying track on red oak. love the bloopers you guys have at the end of the videos wish you could show more of them. keep up the great work!
Perhaps this has been answered in other videos, but I’ve often wondered: Is the vacuumed ballast just thrown out or is it recycled? Scenery material isn’t really cheap, so I’d like to reuse as much as I can.
Great series! Even though I’m in HO, my uncle (from Japan) came over to visit many years ago and gave me a Kato N scale Japanese steam tank engine of the type I’ve seen in commuter service. With a few changes, the Red Oak layout would make a great Japanese prototype, country commuter layout. Just like here, some Japanese commute a long way to work or want to take trips out of town. Many people think that Japan only has huge cities but it has a beautiful countryside, too.
I’ve seen many British layouts that feature just a depot scene because of lack of space. I imagine some Japanese modelers do the same.
Once again great job David on the video…KUDOS to your entire team.
For my paints and scenic cement, since there is always settling, I have placed a small stainless steel nut in each container to serve as a stirring device. These act like they would in a “rattle can” spray paint can. Since SS does not rust, I can use them again in the next bottle.
To Clinton I’m cheap too.I use battery powered car vac. Just don’t forget to empty it between jobs.
You do a great job David of demonstrating how to do things. The best way to learn.
David just a tip.
You mentioned in your static grass segment about cleaning your shop vacuum real well and saving the grass but there is a much easier way. Get a clean white cotton handkerchief and tape it to the end of the hose going into your vacuum. form a pouch with the handkerchief. (Be sure your hose is clean. Next when you vacuum either static grass or ballast or foliage it will be trapped in the handkerchief and be clean and ready to store for future use. You don’t need to vacuum a long time and overheat the motor just a few seconds will do the trick and save money.
Can I have a Mug now? OOOOOOPS wrong program!
Mark