Prob suffering from analysis paralysis, but looking at suggestions. The tap wrenches are used to screw in freight car trucks and couplers. I know micromark sells them but want to see if you suggest any from Amazon. Plan to get 2-56, 72, 80 trap sets.
Here are twp potential options:
Thanks!
FWIW: For tapping a 2-56 screw into a bolster or draft gear box, I don’t even bother with a tap and just use a screwdriver, as the metal screw will cut the threads into the plastic hole. And I’ve never had an issue with the screw going in crooked.
Tom
I have a T-handle that fits my three flute 2-56 taps. I do not remember where I bought it, and I cannot find another that will chuck down small enough to grab a 2-56 tap.
It does make life easier.
-Kevin
Hi kasskaboose,
I have purchased literally hundreds of things from Amazon (you’re welcome Jeff Bezos) but I always follow one rule. I look at the negative ratings first. It really doesn’t matter how many positive ratings there are. Even if there are only a few negative ratings, they will tell you if there are potential problems with the item. In your case, there are several negative ratings for each of the three choices. They all mention that the purchasers had to use wrenches to tighten the chucks sufficiently to hold the taps, and in one case they couldn’t tighten the chuck enough to hold smaller taps at all, which is exactly what you need it for. To me, those comments raise a red flag! Why take the chance? A decent quality tap vise should be easy to tighten by hand.
Having said that, I wish I could suggest a decent quality tap handle at a decent price. Unfortunately, the good quality handles like Starrett are in the $50.00 - $70.00 range. All I can suggest is that you buy one with reasonable ratings and if it doesn’t work then return it pronto.
[2c]
Cheers!!
Dave
I have trouble with the ones that tighten by hand - especially with small diameter taps when tapping in metal. There are taps that have a larger diameter shaft on the chucking end and some even have a square end on the shaft. These are easier to grip.
I have been using a drill chuck with a geared key to hold taps securely.
Mark Vinski
Hello,
I always seemed to be awkward using the T handle tap wrenches with anything under 1/4-20.
For my model railroad-sized taps I much prefer a four-jaw pin vice.
Taps_small by Edmund, on Flickr
The middle and top one are both Starrett 240Ds, the bottom one a Micro-Mark or otherwise generic double-ender, although it may be a Kadee.
Taps_small-a by Edmund, on Flickr
A four-jaw will grip the tap securely. I find the torque to be plenty with finger pressure. Any more than that you had better check your tap hole diameter.
This One seems to be similar to the double-ended one I have. Just be sure it is a four-jaw.
Good Luck, Ed
[quote user=“gmpullman”]
Hello,
I always seemed to be awkward using the T handle tap wrenches with anything under 1/4-20.
For my model railroad-sized taps I much prefer a four-jaw pin vice.
Taps_small by Edmund, on Flickr
The middle and top one are both Starrett 240Ds, the bottom one a Micro-Mark or otherwise generic double-ender, although it may be a Kadee.
Taps_small-a by Edmund, on Flickr
A four-jaw will grip the tap securely. I find the torque to be plenty with finger pressure. Any more than that you had better check your tap hole diameter.
Thanks all for the help! Ed, the pictures are perfect! That is EXACTLY why I came here. Much faster/easier instead of randomly ordering (and likely returning) from Amazon.
I do what Dave mentions when ordering from Amazon. That place as a ton of stuff that should not EVER get purchased! The tap wrenches I found prob should get included.
Ed: Taking the advice of getting a four-jaw tool, I found this one:
All I’ve ever done is what Ed shows - I just use the small taps in a pin vise. The one exception is the tool I have for converting the Athearn snap on (and always falls off when you don’t want it to) coupler box to screw on. It’s a set from A-Line that includes a device that fits over the center post to align the drill and tap so you get a nicely centered hole - fairly critical in this application since there’s not a lot for room for error - ie, busting out the plastic post because you drilled too far to one side.
Granted, I am not tapping holes in metal, but I think I’d save the t-handle tap wrenches for larger than 2-56. That’s very nearly the only size I ever tap, mainly for truck mounting, and then generally because the original hole was messed up and I have to fill it and redrill/tap. Most any smaller size I am working with are really small sizes to clean out or make grab iron mounting holes and the like, and those are just drill operations, not tapping.
Like Dave, I always look at the negative reviews of something - if it’s overwhelmingling good with a few negatives, I want to see what they say. In many cases, where the positives are in the 85+% range, the negatives are often unrelated, or user error, not an actual product defect, but it pays to check.
–Randy
About 40 or 50 years ago I bought a 13 piece Electricians Drill & Tap set, 4-40 to ¼-20. The taps are still cutting like new, I have only had to replace two bits since I bought the set. The T handle wrench that came in the set is almost worthless. I use a wrench with a quality four finger chuck, also very old.
For smaller than 4-40 I buy only the sizes I need such as 2-56 and 2mm individually. I find that a good quality pin vise works the best for #2 and smaller. I only buy high quality smaller taps as they last much longer than cheapos.
I have some Hob-Bits 00-90, 0-80 and 1-72 taps that are pushing 25 years old and still cutting like new. A light weight pin vise works the best on the tiny taps, a heavy pin vise with break the tiny drill bits and taps easily with their extra weight.
I skimp where I can with tools but with taps you get what you pay for, a cheapie tap doesn’t last very long.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
In my opinion a tap handle for these small jobs is not only overkill, it acts at the wrong angle ‘ergonomically’ to preserve the small tools, especially if they are properly hardened for metal-cutting.
What I’d recommend he look into is one of the ‘guide tools’ that provides a hard metal sleeve to keep the drill or tap precisely at right angles to the work without bending or misalignment, and help with the right light touch and constant feed that are involved with these jobs. I see these listed as “kits” with the correct clearance-drill and tap included for about $18 – the point being that using these should dramatically increase the effective life of the tools over ‘freehanding’ with even the best accurized pin vise.
This is obviously NOT the opinion of an experienced machinest.
Using the correct tool is always the best approach, and for small threaded holes, an T-handle is one of the correct options. It might seem like overkill to the unnexperienced, but after tapping a few thousand holes, you would see why it is the tool to reach for.
-Kevin
For 4-40 and smaller I have always used a pin vise for these taps .I have tapped plastic, brass and diecast metal, for the metal a drop of oil a couple of times helps as well as turning the tap out after a few turns to clear it ,then taps some more.
Ron High
The importance of backing out the tap and clearing the debris from the flutes cannot be overstated.
-Kevin
Yes, backing out is a wise approach from what I’ve seen online.
Ron (and anyone else): based on what you wrote, for a 2-56 tap, I can just use a pin vice? Micro mark sells a vice that appears to work, based on what they list for hole dimensions.
General Tools make a good tap wrench and they are very reasonable. Look for the #163 - it is a nice size for small taps.
Was there a problem with the link I provided from Amazon? Two for $8?
Maybe these are too cheap. You did say you wanted inexpensive. I like to buy from MicroMark, too but just the pin vice and shipping comes to
$20.90 before tax.
Same LINK as above.
Regards, Ed
On the MM web site, the swivel head #21105 would be my first choice. It shows two double ended collets with four jaws, size 0, 1/16’‘, 3/32’‘, 1/8’'.
I only bought two at new prices from LHS. The four other ones I have came from auctions and are second hand/used, cheap.
The MM link three replys back/up by kasskaboose I could not move down to here, ‘‘Error, This site would not allow the link’’.
The square head on the tap requires a fairly large jaw on the pin vice. In part because it’s square. The tap may be small bore but the head will be larger.
I use the size of pin vice that holds the modellers size files.
My regular pin vices don’t open up enough. They’re designed for drill bits. Trying to drill large bore holes with a pin vice is asking for trouble.
Unless you’re trying to tap into steel a pin vice held in your hand should work fine.
Tapping into plastics you might get away with steel machine screws but a proper tap is easier to keep straight.
A tap will tend to follow the drill hole. It is important to get the drill hole straight. Keeping the tap aligned is not a problem as long as your hole goes where you want it to. You just turn the tap, it will thread its way in following your pilot hole.
Yes, a pin vice will work just fine. Just make sure it’s a quality pin vice that will sufficiently bite down onto/grip the OD of the tap. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to use a pin vice and the drill bit or tap just spins when it starts cutting into the material.
As far as the Micro-Mark pin vise you posted the link to, I would avoid the collet-type and go with a 4-jaw type. It will grip the OD of the tap much better, as mentioned earlier.
Tom