My question tonite is about the Circuitron Remote Tortoise Mount kit #800-6100. I have a couple turnouts on my layout with inadequate space directly under the turnout for a Tortoise machine, and had thought I was limited to manual acutators like Caboose Ground Throws. However, some internet searching today uncovered the remote mounting kit for Tortoise motors.
So, what I don’t understand is how you adjust the amount of throw when using the remote mount kit. When I’ve used the normal Tortoise motors under turnouts I adjust the amount of throw by moving the piano wire folcrum. As well, the piano wire has a fair amount of flex so does not stress the connection between the turnout points and throw-arm. How is this managed with the remote mount kit?
I hope one of you has used these mounting kits and can answer my question. Thanks in advance for your help.
It’s a little hard to describe, but there are screws that hold the actuating wire in place and a lever that hooks to the traveling part on the Tortoise. Between the two, there’s plenty of adjustment, probably more than in the standard mounting position. This will allow for the slack/extra throw needed if you used a bellcrank for instance.
In my case, it’s usually a short run in a yard ladder in my staging area. I use the skinny straws that you get with aerosol cans to spray into tight places to act as the conduit for my actuating rods. This is about the same height as the ties on my ME code 83 track, so passes easily through underneath the rails of intermediate tracks. The same conduit idea could work for other installations, too.
LION runs SUBWAY TRAINS. Him cannot have Tortoise Motors from upper level obstructing lower level. LION also runs Elevated Subway Train, cannot have Tortoise Motors from tracks blocking Broadway.
LION never try purchased offset device. Him devise his own and it is so easy even a CHICKEN can do it!
On Broadway Elevated motors are against the back wall with throw rods reaching to the track points. LION will (he says) cover the motors behind some building facades, and will disguise the throw rods by building bridges from the buildings to the tracks. NYCT does this from its power substations to the tracks, so it will look ok. The buildings will be NYCT trade depots anyway, so a connection to the tracks is appropriate.
Here is a picture of a remote mounted Tortoise
The Majyck happens like this. The vertical actuator is the same as comes with the machine, the horizontal rod is a 1/16" steel (welding) rod. In this application it attaches to the old throw rod outside of the track gauge. To access a hole in the middle of the gauge, you would need to route out a place for the rod. In any event I took a piece of hollow wire insulation (You can see it on the Tortoise actuator) and lashed that to the steel throw rod with fine wire.
Center the Tortoise actuator by hand.
Center the Switch points.
Solder the wire lashing to the steel throw rod, locking this neutral alignment between the switch points and the Tortoise.
The wire over the Tortoise actuator may try to ride up and is prevented from doing so by bending the top of the actuator rod, a nip of shrink wrap will prevent the connection from slipping down on the actuator.
If you don’t have them, the install instructions can be downloaded from their site but I recall having a hard time understanding the mechanics when reading them, with the parts on my desk. I did need to install one and found it fairly straightforward in terms of how to put it together and adjust it, so I only understood it fully when putting it in place. As to adjusting the throw, the instructions describe how there are 5 throw lenghts that can be chosen by using different “pivot” holes on the drive mechanism (the part that attaches to the Tortoise). I used the recommended hole and did not have to try another. The centering I recall is adjusted at the end under the throwbar by where the tubing (that the wire is in) is clamped.
It certainly works well and I’d recommend it if that (or something like it) is what’s needed to solve the problem. I can’t comment on alternatives that might be available.
My only difficulty was the limited vertical space when mounting the part under the throwbar, in the low (about 4") clearance area (poor planning) between two pieces of plywood. I could not have screwed the item in under the throwbar without having a Dremel with 90-degree drill attachment and a short drill bit to get the pilot hole made, then it was tough to add the screws in a very tight area.
Thank you for your replies. I think what I’m hearing is that there is adequate adjustment and flex in the remote mount kits to accomodate my needs.
I have turnouts built using Fast Tracks jigs where I have reduced the point clearance to exactly that required by my NMRA guage. This results in very little throw required to move the points. It also requires a bit of spring in the actuating mechanism to hold the points in place without breaking the slodered joint to the throw-bar.
Again, I think your advice has armed me to give it a go. Thanks again and happy New Year.
Since LION uses a steel bar between the tortoise and the track, the length can be anything him wants just so long as there is no lost motion north and south. For long run bury it in a grove or else use a piano wire inside of a metal tube.
I thought about the remote mounts and read about the handmade PC board levers. I devised a simple scheme similar to the LION, but perhaps simpler.
I mount the tortoise upside down on top of the layout. The actuating wire makes an L-Bend at the free end and goes into the little tab on the Atlas turnout that would otherwise have their snap switch machine.
A little placement adjustment (two 1" pieces of 3M double sided tape work well for fastening) and a trackside building to cover it and I am done.
