I built 2 CN SW1200RS some 20 years ago using Athearn SW7(#4012) models and Juneco parts. I do not use them on my layout because their operation is too wrough.
What would be an easy fit to remotor these units ?
Thanks Guys,
Michel D.
NWSL makes a full remotor kit for the Athearn SW1500 (which should also fit other switchers). http://shop.osorail.com/product.sc?productId=1221&categoryId=60 The motor used is out of production, so the kit may or may not be in stock. If it isn’t, NWSL has other motors that can be used with their flywheels and universal couplings, like these:
Some cutting of the motor’s shaft would have to be done if using the individual parts, and you would have to use your own wire. But the main thing is that all of those parts are available for sure. You would also have to find a way to mount the motor with either kit.
i used an Ernst regear set in one with the original motor and put a cary alco shell on it. it runs smooth and slow and will pull the paint off the walls. the fuel tank doesn’t look just right but i can live with that. the motor got a little tweek regarding the brush tension and pick up wiring but that is all i did to it.
grizlump
Use a new Athearn motor. The motors vary but usually run quite well. It will be the least expensive and easiest conversion.
Tilden
I built four SW1200RS units for my free-lance road using the older Athearn switcher. I didn’t bother with the light package or the extended-range fuel tanks, but originally used the Juneco cast metal sideframes. When Athearn released their then-new four-wheel Flexicoil trucks, I re-equipped all four locos, then struggled to get the weight up to what it was with the old sideframes.
Any motor which will fit inside the width of the hood (measure at the top, as the opening tapers narrower there) and between the gear towers will work. Make sure that you get one with a double-ended shaft. Mine were from Mashima, 18x26mm, I believe. I mounted them using silicone sealant, eliminating the flywheels, as they’re too small to be of much use.
I used adapter bushings from NWSL to increase the shaft size from 1.5mm to 3/32", then used the original Athearn drive train. The re-motored locos are quiet and powerful. My test data shows their weight as 12.5 oz., and that they’ll each pull a 70 oz. test train up a 2.5% curving grade. They also ran well with just about any other loco I have, including my Bachmann 2-8-0s and Athearn 2-8-2s.
The reason I mentioned measuring the interior width at the top of the hood was due to this loco, the same Athearn model converted to an NW2:
My first re-motoring job for myself (I’d been doing brass steamers for others for some time), I measured at the bottom of the hood opening, then ordered the maximum size round Sagami that would fit. Well, it fit at the bottom, but there was no way that the body shell could be snapped back in place. I ended-up using a
I replaced an old jet motor with the newer gold motor. the gold motor does not fit into the old chassis without grinding. With the outside frame trucks and cast flywheels in makes plenty of noise still. The best modification per buck is to install NWSL wheels. I’d go with a set of wheels, a gold motor and brass flywheels as a minimum. i have an A-line repower with inside frame trucks and NWSL wheels that runs better than a never had a traction tire proto sw. It is noisier than the proto sw.
Thanks Guys, your comments will be usefull.
Michel D.