anyone know how to remove molded on grab irons with out messing up to much paint ? im planning on replacing the molded ones on my katos sd70mac and atlas 8-40b ( n scale of course:P)
Somebody used to make a special blade for that but I’ve forgotten the details, perhaps someone else can provide the details.
For mine own usage, (HO), I use the flat, square X-Acto chisel blade and use it like a chisel, if you’re careful it peels them right off.
Mark
I use a small chisel similar to this one:
http://www.micromark.com/2mm-PLASTIC-MODELERS-CHISEL,8175.html
Takes a little practice, but it works well.
ok iv got one of those blades ill give it a try on an old broken life like loco before trying my better locos
I think a small cheisel hobby type, a spoone file or sharp no11.blade might be used very carefully but the paint may need touching up after. That is my thinking but there others out there that might know better. rambo1…
Best to use a “new” blade by the way…
Mark
worked like A CHARM on that old loco ( did nick my finger tho, ouch!)
I have made several chisel blades from old xacto blades:
The blade on the far left is the standard #17 chisel blade. The red handled on is the one I use mostly for removing details like grabs. I used a Dremel and a cut off disc to shape it from an old #17 (wear eye protection). The other three were made from #11 blades for use in tight spaces. I did the rough sharpening with the dremel and then finished with a fine sharpening stone and honed them on a honing stone, which I also use to keep them sharp. I have accumulated about 20 handles over the years and keep different blades in all of them so I don’t have to constantly change blades. I did the same with pin vises for my most commonly used drill bits.
thats pretty cool ill have to do that to a couple blades as for the handles how do keep them all organized?
I used different colors and color combinations of shrink tubing, a side benefit is the added finger grip.
I use an Exacto #17 blade with the edges rounded off with a file. The reason is that the edges tend to dig into the plastic to either side of the raised detail you are trying to remove.
Another trick is to place a small piece of Scotch tape (the shiny stuff, not Magic tape) on either side of the area you are working on. Similarly, a small piece of paint masking tape (Tamiya for example) works just as well.
Either method allows you to take grab irons or whatever right down to the base without marring the adjoining surfaces.
Scott Groff, Quevic Valley Rwy. (On30)
Lesson learned from wood working, use the right size chisel for the job. Even if you round the edges of a #17 blade, it can still dig in because it’s too wide for the job. The blades that I repurposed are free too.
Jay;
THis is probably the best set of chisels I have seen. Just take a #17 blade like you did, and grind them down to the size you need. Perfect!
I have several I have ground down, and find them to be pretty easy to work with; but I also have the chisel from Micromark, and that also does a good job. I think it really depends upon what you are doing and how you want to do it. I have about a dozen locomotives I will be “operating” on. In case some of the people who read this don’t know, Tichy has a good selection of grab irons. I usually dump the whole pack in blackening solution and then use them. it eliminates painting afterward, as these prototype fittings usually get pretty gungy and rusty in the weather. Usuing a Dremel battery powered mototool is a great way to go with drilling. Just have a few spare bits handy by, and go slow in plastic, or you will be picking melted plastic out if the bit; not fun.
Oh; one more thing, you newbies: before you go drilling away, you have to mark the hole with some form of prick punch. I use either a metal scriber, or a reamer (from the set) to make the starter works well in plastic.
I am doing over a bunch of Accurail reefers I have acquired over the century, and the parts I am using, such as reefer hatches, etc, are from Tichy. They are coming out really nice. The wheels are from Kadee, 33" slotted backs. If you paint the backs of those wheels, they will really look great if seen. OK, eight bells just sounded, and Iam hungry!!!
Rich
Yellowjacket EF-3