I opened a new bottle of Ambroid ProWeld to discover that the applicator brush bristles had splayed into a fan shape, preventing me from applying the cement neatly.
Can anyone recommend a fix?
Alternatively–Could I use a micro brush to apply the cement? The applicator brush from Testor’s Cement (will Testor’s react with Ambroid)? I could simply use the Testor’s, but I’d intended to switch because it’s too slow to act for me.
Thanks.
Rick Krall
I guess I’d take the bottle back and ask for a new one.
You could go to the hardware store and buy a section of brass tubing, maybe 1/8 inch inside diameter. Cut off a piece about an eighth of an inch long, and thread the bristles through it. Wow, we’ve just invented an adjustable applicator brush. By sliding the collar up and down, you can vary the width of the applicator.
Mr. B–Very inventive! Unfortunately, I’ve had the bottle just long enough that I’ve forgotten where I bought it. Your recommendation unfortunately suggests the bristles are permanently damaged.
Plan B could be to buy an applicator bottle (needle tip) and transfer the cement to that. That may be easiest in the long run.
Rick Krall
My guess is that if you try Mr. B’s suggestion, and leave the “sleeve” on until the glue dries, the brush will retake its original shape. Though, once you put it back in the bottle, all bets are off. If it was me, I’d just use a smaller paintbrush. After using it, clean with paint thinner.
Rick,
You could also buy yourself a dedicated paintbrush for applying liquid cement. I have a red 5-0 or 10-0 for applying cement into tiny grabiron holes. (I chose red because that reminds me that it has a dedicated purpose.) For larger applications, just buy a larger paint brush. I’ve never had the liquid adhesive affect the hairs of the brush.
On the other had, the microbrushe handles are generally made out of plastic. Since liquid cement (essentially Methyethylketone or MEK) melts the outer surface of plastic, it’s probably only good for one application or several quick applications. In that case a brush would be more cost-effective.
Lastly, Rick, if you decide to go the needle botttle route, be sure to keep the wire (with the bead tied at the end) in the needle when not in use. This keeps the needle from clogging up.
Hope that helps…
Tom
P.S. MB, I agree. That’s a nifty idea with the brass bushing.
Use a micro brush. The micro brush is better for small parts.
The applicator brushes that come with the bottles of liquid cements are usually a bit crude for most model work anyway and the splaying obviously makes them next to useless. One fairly quick solution is to trim the brush shorter to minimize the splay, and also to perhaps trim it so that the brush is smaller – fewer hairs in other words.
I prefer to use those miniature swabs for cement work (I wish they were less expensive of course). They really give more control than any brush can.
For broader less fine work, I have also used cheap plastic paint brushes – bought a big bag of them for a buck at some discount store and have trimmed them to smaller size. They tend to be useless for painting anyway but are decently suited to this purpose. I suppose it would even be possible to cut one off and subtitute it for the splayed built in brush but that could involve leaving the cap off for a while which has its own issues.
Dave Nelson