Does anyone know if there are replacement parts available for a Proto 1000 RDC?
I just bought one on eBay and it is in excellent condition but the passenger steps and the pilot are missing on one end. The coupler is also broken off so I suspect that the model has been dropped. I have asked the seller to see if he can find the part(s), but if he doesn’t have them, are there Proto 1000 parts available?
I’m not too worried if the original parts are not available. I figure that I can fabricate the steps from .010 styrene, and I can modify a pilot to fit.
I was just looking at a pair of LL P1K RDC’s that I’ve had stored for a few years. Issue is the windows. In my efforts to disassemble the units (to paint strip and metalize them into the NH RR scheme) I broke some of the windows (yes, I was careful but not enough!). No one produces flush fitting glazing for them and due to their unique sizes, glazing from Rivarossi and Walthers units don’t fit at all.
The Rapido units are beautiful and superior in every way, yet for the price and the time that they were produced, the LL P1K units are heavy, attractive smooth runners and were (still are) a big leap ahead of the Athearn BB units RDC’s that were tooled back in the 70’s.
I may have to take the Con Cor style approach and install clear plastic strips as glazing (which I would prefer not to).
This is a P1K RDC shell that I stripped and metalized a few years back:
This is what I’m targeting to model, although the 1960’s version:
But it is frustrating that I’ve tried replying to your PM and for some odd reason, it won’t let me! I’ve refreshed the page and, still, it won’t accept any of my key strokes.
I’m hoping that it is a temporary glitch with the forum’s software.
Not directly on topic but I have a question about these locomotives.
I bought one and the geartrain in the drive truck is quite noisy. I tested 6 identical units and bought the quietest one.
I’ve taken the gear retainer off and oiled the geartrain from below. Better but still growls. The sound is unlike the sounds from the very same truck design on other Proto 1000 and some proto 2000 locomotives I run. The C liner is virtually silent by comparison, as good as the best Proto 2000 trucks.
Its ok in a way because these dayliners did sound very different with their small displacement diesels and mechanical transmission.
Do they all do this right out of the box or is there a repair?
Mine have always been a little noisy, especially compared with the usual L-L/Proto diesels.
Northwest Short Line offers a regearing kit (mainly to increase speed) and at one time I was tempted to buy several but that was right about when Rapido had announced their RDC so I replaced the whole fleet.
My fleet of one RDC3 will be supplemented by a new Rapido RDC3 when they arrive. My plan is for two sets of some locomotives: one DC only suitable for young railroaders who may not fully appreciate the detail of a Rapido model and the second DCC for me.
That way way the grandsons can learn all about the hobby without me worrying about how skilled they are.
Perhaps I’m one of the fortunate modelers in that both of the RDC’s that I have run generally quiet. The sound that the motors make, imho, is just slightly higher than that of a Roco powered Atlas diesel of the 70’s which had a rather pleasant “hum”.
I’m wondering if, perhaps, the old “Athearn Blue Box” trick of applying tooth polish, or some semi-abrasive cream, to the gears and running the chassis for 30 minutes to an hour would help burnish the gears? With the BB units this method, in many cases, helped to quiet down the infamous “BB growl”.
Thanks Dave. I’ll plan on examining the drives in both units since I’m taking the DCC route (and am considering sound) anyway. For anyone that’s curious, the prototypes came with Detroit-110 series engines. Upon listening, they sounded incredibly similar to GMC transit buses, which were equipped with Detroit 6V-71 series power plants.
PAINT SHOP:
One aspect that I appreciate about these units is that the paint comes off of them so easily after a soaking in either 91% alcohol or “Super Clean”.
For metalizing, this is the basic appearance the I’m targeting. Well taken care of with light weathering.
