At one time, I was clipping the trip pins on my Kadee couplers for a better appearence. Now that I’m no longer using ‘standard’ sized couplers, I’m divesting myself of Kadee #5’s. I’m wondering if it’s feasible-or even possible- to replace the cut trip pins with ones removed (in whole) from plastic couplers (EZ Mates, etal). I’m looking at this from a re-sale value standpoint.
First, I would say that to assume the pins from those generic couplers would fit would be like expecting a Chevy part to fit a Ford.
Second, the Kadee couplers are all metal and the pins installed by machine in a jig no doubt. So the “ease” of such work is questionable at best.
“Re-sale value”? Why would anyone pay more than maybe half price for your used couplers? Surely you time is more valuable than this? Either to simply earn more money or build more trains.
Sheldon
I have old couplers and unassembled trucks and parts this and thats, What I plan to do it to have a rail junkyard of excess parts that get picked off as needs be (by the little 1/87 peoples, not me) as a detail fun thing. I would probably retire them clipped kadees into that parts yard. I have old kadees also either their rusted or the pin fell off, thats where their goin.
I would sell them as is, many folks cut off the trip pins and you may find someone that still uses the #5s in that fashion.
Ricky
I agree with Ricky, besides your not going to increase their value by replacing the trip pin. A used coupler isn’t worth much to start with.
I removed the trip pins on my locomotive couplers only and have replaced many of the MU houses on my diesels with black tygon tubing or the pre-made vinyl ones etc. even have used solid core copper wire with black covering which makes a really nice looking mu hose and cheap as dirt too.
I would bother with the extra effort involved in replacing what you removed just because you think someone won’t like it. If you weathered the same car would you remove the weathering because your taste in weatheirng isn’t the same as everyone else s? I used to know this guy who used the first step of rustall on every single thing on his layout, even concrete structures. I’m not talking rust streaks but the whole building. It looked like everything on his layout was splashed with a giant brown paint brush it was honestly one of the most hideous things I have ever seen on a model railroad but he liked it and that was all that mattered. If you liked the way the cars looked with the trip pins removed and now want to sell them maybe someone else will think they look good too.
There’s no way you can replace a Kadee trip pin without special tools – besides, where are you going to get the replacements? Kadee doesn’t sell them. Change the couplers or sell the items “as is.” Missing trip pins are not going to have much effect on resale value.
They would have about as much value, not to mention the time spent reinstalling the pins, as say, used ballast. [:D]
Makes me wonder why Kadee provides spare trip pins with their couplers.
Mark
To the best of my recollection in 40 years the only Kadee couplers with replacable/seperate trip pins are the “old timer” coupler which is a totally different design. No regular Kadee coupler I have ever bought came with extra trip pins?
Sheldon
Old Timers are “kits” which require inserting the pin into the plastic coupler.
When I made the earlier response, I had merely checked a handy, partly used envelope of #58s (“semi-scale-size” metal couplers) which came with pins installed. Nevertheless, the envelope included extra pins.
Mark
Well that may be the answer, I don’t use the #58’s.
Sheldon
AFIK #5 don’t come with spare pins,none of the dozens of my packs did.
I believe the pin is the hinge between the moving knuckle and the shaft,and as such, is press-fit intoone or the other.Must be a VERY small press, with a custom cradle,since the surface is oddly shaped.
Anyone who’s assembled accu-mates can relate. That’sjust a press-fit into a non-hinge piece of plastic, and IMO is a bear!
I’ve replaced Kadee trip pins with pins from some plastic couplers. If I recall correctly I used a two pair of 4 inch needle nose pliers to ease the couplers apart. You need to make sure all the parts go back together the same way and that the trip pin is 100% straight in the hinge area. It takes a bit of work to make them uncouple with the magnetic ramps. From a resale point Blue Box cars usually are worth $1.00 more with Kadees with trip pins than other types of couplers. Not worth the effort. With more expensive cars like Atlas people want the car in the box with original parts. Having Kadees on means the car has been run and collectors don’t like that. You would get just as much putting original couplers on the cars.
I was looking at the resale value of the couplers only. I’ve been selling them -with trip pins- slowly, but surely, at the local hobby shop for $1/pr. I wonder if I could sell the ones without the pins on E-Bay for $5 for 20pr?
I have replaced about 100 couplers on freight cars and engines with Kadee #58 couplers. I have NEVER found extra trip pins in any package of Kadee Magne-Matic couplers (the “modern” ones) with metal heads. It is my strong belief that they just don’t sell them that way. In any case, replacement would be extremely difficult, with or without extras. The steel pins are harder than the metal of which the couplers are made, so you probably couldn’t even drill them out without a precise drill press and special fixtures. And even if you had all that, the possible increase in resale value would be far outweighed by the time and effort involved.
If you look at the head of the couplers you will note that the pin is flared into the hole by a special tool. The pin is probably slotted before being pressed into position, then a special punch flares out the end of the pin to hold it into place. The resulting distortion holds the pin in position very firmly. Not easy to remove.
Put the couplers up for sale on eBay as-is. You’ll make more money, much more easily.
First, the #58 is not the “Old Timer” coupler, I believe that was the #711 which is no longer listed. Most modellers figured out that it was the same as the #714 couple