I recently acquired an Akane EM-1 that I would like to repower. I see that NWSL has a mounting kit for all Akane engines and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with that kit or repowering that particular engine.
I know that there is an online article floating around from the B&O Historical Society (I think) that talks about repowering & upgrading the engine. I’ve read it but I’m also looking for additional info about the conversion and would rather talk to someone who has first-hand experience.
My paarticular model needs almost full throttle to get her moving so I’m thinking it either has a very large motor in it or has a very poor power train that takes excessive energy to get moving. I was hoping to substitute a good quality can motor and maybe even drop in a flywheel but that remains to be seen. To complicate matters, I’m not much of a machinist and don’t have those kinds of tools at my disposal. To date, I’ve changed exactly one motor and one other gear set… not a huge bed of experience there.
Your help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I’ve got 3 of the Akane Missabe Yellowstones, which have an identical drive mechanism to the EM. What they need most of all for smoother running is to replace the plastic tubing with Universals–especially between the first and second sets of drivers. The torque from the tubing will eventually damage the open frame motors, especially if you’re running the lokie on tighter radii (the locos will take a 24" minimum radius, but with a FEARSOME overhang, LOL!) NWSL or A-Line universals will work very well for this, as will the old Hobbytown universal sets now distributed by Micromark.
If you’ve got the original open-frame motor, there’s a chance that it might need some cleaning up–these locos date from the 1960’s, but had pretty smooth-running Japanese open-frame motors when originally released. Usually cleaning the contacts with alcohol and a toothbrush while running the motor will improve it quite a bit–also a drop of light oil on the padding between the motor and the magnet. Two of my Yellowstones are still running very well with their original motors, the third has had a can motor replacement from NWSL, that I mounted using Silicone gel.
Some years back, there was a posting on the forum by a modeler who had completely re-done the drive train of an Akane AC-12 cab forward (again, the mechanisim is identical) with NWSL reduction gears on both sets of drivers, but it’s been so long ago that I don’t know how you’d find it. It was an extremely complex procedure, but the end result for him was a very smooth-running loco.
For myself, I rather like my Akanes as they are–the drive train is simple, but extremely long-lasting and sturdy. But by replacing the tubing with universals and cleaning the motors, you should get a much smoother running loco.
BTW, those Akanes will haul anything you want to put beh
Your help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
dlm
Dan, you might try Mark Schutzer’s website. He’s done a couple of Akane cab-forwards which should have a very similar, if not identical, driveline to the Akane EM-1.
Lotsa pictures and very good descriptions. Hope this helps.
Mark Schutzer does give a very good reference and tutorial on repowering Akane articulateds, along with a few other brass steam engines. You don’t have to do the extensive repowering that he did, since he and others say that the stock drive runs very well. It’s just not as quiet as the NWSL drive.
I can confirm that new universals from NWSL are a must in any older brass. The ones used were typically sloppy, noisy, and not flexible enough to work smoothly. I’ve tried universals from A Line, Hobbytown, and NWSL, and NWSL’s are the best of the bunch.
If you need a new motor too, microlocomotion has a very good selection and very good prices. My favorite so far is the Canon 18x37mm coreless. It’s a good size for most medium to large engines, has high torque, low power draw, runs very quietly, and has a good speed of around 9,000RPM. And it’s only $25![:D] (EDIT: the listing says 15,000RPM, but it is actually about 9,000 at 12V, which is about the same as most modern can motors)
Thanks, guys, Mark’s tutorial is the one I was thinking about. VERY complex rebuild (at least IMO), but the results are evidently very much worth it. I will admit that as is, the stock mechanism of the Akanes does have a bit of a ‘coffee-grinder’ sound to it, which can be at least quieted down somewhat with Universals and can motors or motor cleaning.
But I think if I had the talent and patience that Mark obviously has, I’d almost be tempted to give his re-gearing a try.
The hardest part is replacing the axle gears. It requires pulling the wheel and old gear (easy), pressing the new gear on straight (easy if you have something like a Sensipress, hard otherwise), and re-quartering the wheels (easy if you have a Quarterer). The rest can be done fairly easily with nothing more than some drill bits and a file.[:D]
I’m thinking that the only thing wrong (besides the universals) with your loco is that the motor magnet is weak. Alnico magnets lose their magnetism with time, resulting in slow operation and high current draw. If you can find/build a re-magnetizer, use that to recharge your motor. If not then either magnet replacement with a neodymium magnet or motor replacement with a good strong can motor are your only options.
The power trains in Akane locomotives were very good for their time, and the open-frame motors they used were among the best available.
The site mentioned is very interesting but there’s NO WAY I’m ready for that kind of work or at that skill level. : (
Some of the ideas mentioned by others… universals, etc, maybe, so I’ll take a look at the engine and go from there. I have a trip scheduled to The Train Station in Columbus; maybe they will have some of the universals, etc, in stock.