Hi everybody,
As many of you know, I’m actually bashing a 2-8-0. My problem is that I must scrap most rivets on the plastic shell. Spectrum tender is 1’ too high and when resized, existing rivets will looks completely awkward. I would like to know if there’s a method to make new rivets on the shell. (I know the trick on styrene, but working on an existing shell is something else).
I remember reading somewhere, years ago, that some people used dotted dry transfer sheet for that purpose. Is it a good method, where do you get them? Is there some other way to do it?
Matt
Hi Matt,
I used the ones from Archer Fine Transfers, they are resin dots (& other available patterns) printed on clear decal paper. I ordered quite a few different sets from them a couple times. Although the sheets are small, they go a long way. Also, I have not had an opportunity to try them, but Micro Mark has a similar product.
I cut my Archer ones into pretty thin strips, & it may take a little time with a toothpic to get them to look straight (like real fine stripes are) but I really like them.
However, you be the judge, Here is a Branchline Box car I converted into a mobile office/apartment, It shows two products, the rivets (painted -above window, & not painted -under window, the black ones). & their Louvers near the car end, where there is a fake HVAC room…
Best of Luck!
Thanks! I checked both places, Archer got exactly the staggered pattern I was looking for.
Chad, once painted, they stand out nicely.
Matt
Matt,
Well, Thanks for the compliment!! I appreciate it.
That model was shot (the yellow stripe) with FloQuil Reefer Yellow, it is a flat & builds very well & can be shot thick like that one. On real thin gloss paints like ScalecoatII & Tamiya sometimes the clear carrier may show, but only trained eyes can detect that, so do not worry about it.
The one thing I like about the Archers is that once painted they are not odd looking, they are sized really nice in ‘my’ opinion…
Glad I was able to help & had something handy to add & show you…
That’s what I’m all about!
Honestly, they looks as if they were cast in the styrene. If you didn’t told me, I would have thought they were really
I shouldn’t have too much trouble with color since everything will be painted black. BTW, I also ordered some ALCO threaded plate, it will come handy since the tender coal bunker had some.
Thanks again CHAD, I must agree, this hobby is about sharing.
Matt
Thank you Matt,
I have learned a LOT here & just hope I may be able to give back a little, I’m glad I was able to help & show you an example that fits your needs!
I think you will really like the treadplate products, I have used them successfully, without issue! One trick I use is I pattern & cut up Post-it Notes then use those to fit, trim, & then transfer to the cutting on the decals.
Well here is another example, although I think the color & photo is not the best, I hope you can see the example “I meant” in it… (Please choose Make it large!) I added a little wash on the front steps to try to help, as I knew it was going to be difficult to shoot…
Any guesses on what it is gonna be??? (look close at the nose headlight & the cab center windows… Ummm… I’m pretty sure almost everyone has seen the prototype before, somewhere…
Please Enjoy! & Thanks again!
The Archer’s are printed on ultra thin Microscale decal film. Once you have them in position, let them dry, then give them a coat or two of Microsol and the film will completely dissapear on any finsh, (although, applying them to a semi or gloss finish is best, just like any decal).
Jay,
Thanks for the tip!
I have been using a little Future as an ‘adheasion’ promoter before I lay in the decal down, & it may have been holding the edges on me.
I will try your technique on the next round!
Thanks again for the suggestion & guidance, I appreciate it!
Thanks Jay!