I am building a new layout and will be using roadbed this time. The question is what do I use as shims to get the track from the roadbed hight down to the level surface (homosote)? Also would there be different methods for getting down to the surface for a long spur or platform passenger station as opposed to a very short spru? I model in HO scale…Thanks
There are as many methods as there are methods for scenicking…
Some options would be to sand the roadbed into a gradual incline, or to carve out the homasote sub-grade to generate the incline.
I guess the dumb question is why use a roadbed on top of Homasote? Homasote works pretty well as a roadbed in and of itself. Why not cut away the Homasote where you want the surrounding earth lower than the roadbed, and leave the Homasote where you want it level?
Which brings me to my answer to your question. Rather than lower the track, raise the surrounding areas where needed. It’s real easy to get an awkward vertical transition in the track every time you want to have surrounding facilities level with the track, if you lower the track instead of bringing up ground level. The prototype has the advantage of long distances to raise or lower the track to mainline ballast height - we usually don’t.
Open grid benchwork and cookie cutter roadbed lends itself to taking care of these situations by fairly easily adjusting the height of surrounding earth and platforms and structures.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
If you go to California roadbed’s site Richard makes transition shims for exactly this purpose. Trust me when I say they are worth using and if you have ever sanded or cut Homasote on a table saw you know what I am talking about.
Hi,
I’ve done many of the usual methods in the past to get track from a roadbed to table level. The method I tended to use most often is the graduated sheets of cardboard. I used IBM cards (if you are under 40, ask someone over 50), and they worked pretty good.
On my current layout I am doing something a bit different. I’ve added a couple of sheets of 3/32 cork to my yard and industrial area, which makes the transition from the cork roadbed to that “ground” much less. I used some of my old business cards for the transition (4 cards, 3 cards, 2 cards, 1 card).
Also, the sheet cork does not run next to the cork roadbed, so it looks pretty good as you still get the impression it is significantly higher up than ground level.
Welcome to the forums.
A very simple method is to get a package of shims from your local lumber yard. They are wooden shingles (just a smaller pack) The thick end is usually a thickness match for cork roadbed and they taper to nothing.
Good luck,
Another method is to get Woodland Scenics flexible foam risers.
They go from “zero” up a 1% or 2% or 3% or 4% rise.
They should be available at any good hobby shop and are online.