Roadbed

Garden Railroading
1

Hi,
I am planning to expand my mainline this summer [^][yeah] and I want to know a good roadbed to use. Currently I have ground/crushed concrete that is packed in between 1x6’s. This works great, but my extension will run allong the fence and I am afraid of the grass and weeds taking it over and I want it seem as though you cant see the track (that way mom wont freak out about it). My thought was to screw the track onto a board of some sort, but I dont know how to keep it from sliding out into the middle of the yard. Suggestions[?]
Thanks for your help[bow],
David
Its tournament time!
Let’s Go Duke!

2

David;

If you are going to bury the wood “roadbed” be sure to use pressure treated wood. Make sure that when you cut it that you wear a protective mask and eye protection as the saw dust from that stuff can cause some serious effects (with enough exposure.) If you are concerned about the boards moving, then drive a 4x4 fence post into the ground (below ground level) and screw the “roadbed” to the posts. Since the pressure treating chemicals do not completely penetrate the wood, when you get the wood ask for some preservative that you can paint onto all cut surfaces, allow it to soak into the wood as per the instructions on the can before applying a second coat… Again wear a mask and eye protection as those chemicals are bad for you as well.

3

Thanks Tom,
This sounds like a great plan and it sounds as though it should hold up. But, I am still up for new ideas.
Thanks,
David
Let’s Go Duke!

4

David;

Just another thought about wood. I have some pressure treated Southern Yellow Pine that has been in the ground for just over 15 years without any sign of decay. (Birdhouse posts, fence post, and other “yard art”) If your budget can afford it check out the price, verse “garentee”.

5

Most building centers like Lowes or Home Depot carry what they call grading stakes. Since they are intended for more temporary use, they are not treated. You could get some, and soak them in a 5 gal bucket with a preservative chemical, and use them to place an occaisional stake to keep it all from “sliding”.

You could also use treated 2X6 for your roadbed and fasten some treated 2X2 down the middle of the underside to give a keyway ot Teffect which would keep them from sliding.

Get some shelf brackets and mount the trains right on the fence (then you don’t have to crawl around in the dirt to do things)

I’m sure you will get a bunch more ideas in short order!

6

David,

I’m new around here, but may bring some new ideas from the landscaping world, to help all of you save your backs and pockets. If your just putting the boards on the ground, or even recessing them, why not use some Garden spikes. The spikes are 1/2" X 10", and can be bought almost anywhere. Just drill a 1/2" hole (maybe 9/16"), every 1-2’ and drive them in with a hammer. They will stop “SLIDING”; however may not stop tilting of the boards. That would require a tamped “base”, with almost any technique. The other thing is try the plastic board products out there. There’s no poisons, and will last forever. Try epsplasticlumber.com; they’re offereing black 2x4" material for $1.50/ ft. Just a thought.; hope it helps.

7

In my “flat” portion of my layout I used a concrete roadbed. It’s slower to build than a wooden roadbed but really quite easy to do. It last forever, no worry about weeds, easy to get level and absolutely no maintenance of the sub roadbed.

I built in 8’ - 10’ secttions. I just trenched down about 4" - 5" and lined the trench with plastic garden edging ripped down to the depth I wanted. I then filled the trench with concrete and double checked the level. While I was waiting for one section to set up, I’d extend the trench down.

When the first section was set, I’d just slide the garden edging down the new trench, stake it and repeat the process.

Didn’t invent the process. Picked it up from several other Garden Railroaders and really liked it.

8

Here’s what worked so far for me. Just signed up today. I use stuff called screenings, or crusher fines,or road dust, which is just slate colored leftovers from cutting and grinding slate, or whatever. Cheap enough. I put down a trench about 5" deep and 7"wide, then laid the track on top. Filled over the top a bit to hold the track steady, and it’s been fine for about two years now. I’m thinking of covering it up to the surface of the ties though to avoid all the small chunks of local vegitation, etc. from lodging in the middle. Jim

9

Hi folks,

I have been out of MRR’ing for a while and have been thinking of getting into N or HO scale in the house… well, with spring coming on… it has me thinking more of an outdoor G scale. I want to weigh all my options, before I start spending my hard earned dollars. Thanks for any direction anyone might give me.

Jim wrote:

Where do you find these “screenings”?

whiterab wrote:

This sounds easy enough… but what do you secure your track with to the concrete?

Thanks for your help.

10

Also, what track should I look to buy? This is my first posts to the G Scale forums, so I am a little lost and really don’t know where to start.

Thanks folks !

11

Charlie,

There are several differences in building outside than building inside. One big difference is that you have to contend with big changes in temperature which then shows itself in contraction and expansion of the track. As to “securing” the track, just like the 1:1 railroads I float the track in the ballast. The summer Texas sun will cause a bit of expansion in the rails and the track will move around a bit. The track will float in the ballast. One other note; the ties do not sit on the concrete. The concrete is the base the ballast sits on and the ties are embedded in the ballast.

Don’t get too neat with your track joining. Leave a gap for expansion.

As long as you use a “rough” ballast such as crushed stone (not smooth garden gravel) the locking of the ballast is more than enough to keep your track in place. Crusher fines are great because the rock dust combined with the small rocks will lock up beautifully over time.

Selection of which track to use is a matter of personnal preference except for Bachmann track. Bachmann track is designed for INDOOR USE ONLY. I use Aristo Brass and am quite happy with it. But I would recommend spending some time studying the many different options for roadbed and track combinations. Track work is much more involved when working outdoors but well worth the time and effort.

12

I like the Aristo track, the price is about as reasonable as it gets in large scale and they have a sale in Jan-Feb where you can get one free box of track for every four boxes you buy. Of course, you’re a bit late to get in on that deal.

USA Trains track is good too, and may be slightly cheaper. USA track has newer looking ties, with a finer grain. Aristo track has older looking ties, with larger grain and rounded corners. I mixed a few sections of USA track with the Aristo track, which makes it look like some of the ties have been replaced recently.

One thing I disliked about the USA track is that the joiners are really hard to remove. That’s an issue if you plan to use rail clamps instead of the standard joiners. I opted to use rail clamps because they provide a very solid physical and electrical connection and yet make it easy to remove a section of track without disturbing adjoining sections.

You may be able to get screenings/crusher fines from a local quarry.

13

Thanks Joe, that is a great bit of info and is much appreciated. I’ve got a lot of reading and thinking to do.

Cheers !!!

14

Thanks to you also, Ray. Are you guys using the Flex Track?? Aristo and USA sounds good, your info is valuable. It’s much appreciated.

15

Charlie, Although I am a newbie just starting my G outdoor layout, I can provide some info. FYI “flex track” in G isnt like flex track in other scales, most of it is designed to be bent with a rail bender, unlike in HO/N where you flex it and nail it. Because the rail is larger it wants to stay strait. The benders are easy to use. Also Aristo 8’ flex comes seperate from the ties and has to be assembled, there are different benders some which you bend the rail seperate from the ties, and one you bend it on the ties.
Decisions you need to make before buying track:

  1. track vs batt r/c power -each material has different conductivity (need to be cleaned), price and strength
  2. scale height vs oversized but more rugged (ie can handle a little more abuse)
  3. layout size & curve diameter -larger diameter runs more equipment & the equipment looks better on the curves. Flex allows variable diameter curves bent to match location.

I personally bought the code 332 (larger, but more durable) Aristo 8’ brass flex(cheaper than Stainless, weathers to a black, & I am goin batt power) during the jan feb sale as that was the best possible buy on track, although shipping was a bit more, I think it will save me joiner derailments and such problems, I think the shipping will be more than made up for in savings on rail clamps. I am going to try the Train-Li bender as it bends both rails at once on the ties. and as close to 20’ diameter curves as I can get. but that is just me. My subroadbed method is going to be Marty Cozad’s/whiterab (cement) -durablity/mildly stepable
This is a very abrivated answer, seach this & mylargescale.com forums for much longer & detailed answers. How I plan to do it is best for me, but not everyone. Each of the different methods has a reason people do it, it depends on what you want in the end.

16

Hi Rockmodeler,

Thanks for the info. I haven’t totally decided whether I’m going G or not… but I am leaning that direction. I like the idea of working it into a Garden and having fun while outside, working in the yard.

I’ve been reading all I can find, going to swing by Books-A-Million today and see if they have any mags.

I saw or read somewhere… where someone mounted the track on posts/boards and elevated it over the landscape… have you seen anything on this? Or know where I can find out info on that kind of “roadbed” system?

Also, is Battery Power the “way to go” with the G stuff? It seems it would be the easiest way to go???

Your info is valuable and I appreciate it.

17

For the ladder roadbed method see this site;

http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/roadbed/ladder1.htm

An alternative if you want to buy roadbed off the shelf is Mainline Enterprise roadbed now being carried by Split Jaw Rail Clamps. Their site is

http://www.railclamp.com/

Click on the Mainline Enterprise box.

18

That was probably my roadbed you are refering to. It’s designed to stand alone if required, but mine will be encased in a viaduct made from blue foam. I used PVC pipe filled with concrete with a 3/8" stainless bolt set on top, The roadbed is 5/8" pressure treated ply cut with jig saw and bolted on. This idea can be modified in any number of ways to fit your particular needs, you can use all wood, all PVC, or all steel in any number of combinations or complexities.

The overiding concern of outdoor garden railroads is ruggedness and simplicity. The more complex something is, the more maintenance will be needed and it will have a much shorter life span and much higher aggrivation factor. Depending on your wants and needs, track power is good for small railroads, batt/rc is better for larger pikes, brass and stainless steel track both have equal number of pros and cons, prefab vs handlaid have support on both sides.

My suggestion for a newbie is to build a small starter railroad on 50-70ft of track, using simple track power. Smooth out a space in your yard and just lay the track on the grass or dirt and start railroading. In a few weeks you will have learned enough to make an informed choice of what kind of railroading you want to do, and what type of equipment/power/track you want. Then go shopping and hide the reciepts from the wife.[;)]

[img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dd33b3127cce97a4d782a5b50000

19

Hey t-Jack,
Now that’s what I’m talking about. I like that idea and looks to be fairly simple… although labor intensive… but that’s ok. I like that.

Hey whiterab,
Thanks for the links, very good stuff !

20

Hey t-jack,

How deep are your concrete filled PVC pipes in the ground? Also, what track are you using and are you satisfied?

Thanks!