I’m looking for opinions on roadbed and track (code?) (N scale).
Before talking to several experienced modelers I was going to use cork and Peco flextrack, most have recommended foam roadbed and Peco, Micro Engineering track (and some Atlas).
Would appreciate pros & cons of both track and roadbed.
Thanks,
John
I’m in HO, but I suspect most of the roadbed issues will be the same.
First, what is your layout base going to be? Will you be going with plywood, pink/blue foam or something else? Are you building a flat table, or cookie cutter? These might be important factors when choosing roadbed.
I’m using pink foam (2-inch) for my layout base, with no plywood underneath. The pink foam is rigid enough by itself. I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, and mostly Atlas flex track. I find this combination just fine, although I haven’t experimented with much else. 40 years ago, I did cork over plywood, but that’s just a distant memory. If I had to compare, though, I’d say that I’m happier with the foam-on-foam technique.
I have used both Micro Engineering and Atlas flex track. While I think the Micro Engineering track looks better, especially their weathered track, it is rather “stiff” when compared to the Atlas - in otherwords it does take a little bit more effort to work with it. ME is also a little more expensive. You may want to get some of both and play around a bit to see which works (and looks) better to you.
I’ve used cork and WS foam roadbed. WS seems a little quieter, cork is a little easier to cut with an X-acto blade. I’d use either, depending on cost and availability. Others here have stronger opinions…
I use Atlas track with Peco turnouts. Haven’t tried the smaller code rail yet.
I use PECO turnouts and ATLAS or PECO flex track and in some situations ATLAS snap track. Generally use code 80 (either brand) for main lines and PECO code 55 for siding and spurs. (PECO 55 is code 80 cleverly designed to look smaller).
For roadbed I use HO cork, N cork, or none depending on how much I want the track raised above the ground.
Micro Engieering 55 and ATLAS 55 are real code 55. There have been issues with wheel flanges of older equipment bumping on the “spikes” (particually with ATLAS 55). Most newer stuff has low profile flanges, so are not a problem.
I personaly like cork roadbed for its realism. But foam performs better. In sound and weight flesibility, and corner turning and flexibility. Its also cheaper.
I prefer cork. The only advantage of foam for me is cost.
Cork has a springiness that makes for nice smooth curves and natural easements as you lay it down.
It has a nice straight centerline that can be used to put on a centerline drawn on your sub-roadbed where foam is often off-center and useless for this purpose. The resulting line in the cork can be highlighted with a marker for laying down the track. This is important to me since I transfer my track plan from 1:1 printouts to the subroadbed using dressmaker’s pattern transfer paper and use that to guide my track laying.
Cork sands nicely and provides profile more to my taste.
As for foam’s advantages… I am not sold on the “sound deadening”. Its not a big issue with my n-scale trains and from what I have read, your adhesive will play a more important part in that.
The one thing I did like in my short experience with foam is it would stay put in the liquid nails after I pressed it in where with cork I needed to pin it as I get it in position because it will want to spring out of shape. This I consider an advantage of cork because that same spring makes for smoother curves.
I suggest trying both and deciding which works for your budget and temprement. Most hobby shops sell cork by the piece.
As for track, I use peco track right now because I have a stock pile of it… it seems to work pretty well after the turnouts are modified for DCC, but it is very expensive these days. I would look at other options that are not subject to import tax and a weakening dollar if I was starting over.
Chris
i use 3/4" plywood for my sub-roadbed and then Homasote which is available at building supply stores or can be purchased from california homabed pre-cut and beveled. both are very stable, strong and easy to work with. i use the 2" construction foam for scenic terrain with good results but not as a part of my roadbed because of the noise. as an alternative to flex track check out central valley rail works and their products. inexpensive and excellent detail. i’ve used their track with excellent results, and it is very user friendly. the cv turnouts i’ve used in combo w/fast tracks(www.handlaidtrack.com) and i have never seen or used a better turnout. a small learning curve but the results are bullet proof and look great. peco makes a good product but starting@ $15+ per switch building your own is the way to go for the quality and money.
I took the road less traveled (or maybe never traveled).
I used 1/4" luan based on 12" centers for the base, then used latex caulk to secure 1/4" foam over top of that. Then for roadbed I was walking through the local home improvement store and noticed rolls of rope caulk for sale ( http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns%20Ridge/Picture016.jpg ). It’s twice as wide as HO scale so I cut it in half and get double the roadbed for my money ( http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns%20Ridge/Picture021.jpg ). Also, I can use a roller to flatten it (or ramp it) to do rail height transitions ( http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns%20Ridge/Picture024.jpg ). It is flexible, so it lays smoothly around corners and never gets hard so it doesn’t transmit sound to the table top ( http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns%20Ridge/Picture002.jpg ). I secure it with latex caulk and secure the track to it with latex caulk. I’ve had some sections in for over a year and I couldn’t be happier with it! In this (poor quality) pic you can see it all before ballast or any scenery work is done. ( http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns%20Ridge/7-15-076.jpg )
