Well I’m almost finsihed laying my track. I have been doing test runs by connecting some clips from my DC power pack, but am quickly approaching the time when I actually have to install my wiring.
Can you point a rookie in the direction of some clear and concise websites explaining wiring? I have read a few artilces and such and am going to take the plunge into DCC (DigiTraxx Zephyr - I like the throttle look plus the features). I am guessing the Zephyr comes with lots of documentation, but inadvance of that I’d like to read as much as I can on DCC wiring.
Many Thanks to all. I have learned most of what I know from reading the posts on this web forum. Is that a good thing? lol…JK[:D]
I would also suggest visiting your local Train hooby shop, and check out the books there. Every LHS that I have visited, have a great selection of Wiring for DC, and many other selected titles for wiring. If you do not have a LHS near you, you can check the Kalmbach web site, they have wiring books listed as well. Amazon.com also carries wiring books, and , you can check the advertisements in your latest monthly issue of Model Rairoad Magazine, the sposors of this forum.
Good luck Trevor, and there is plenty of help on this forum if you run into difficulty, experience comes from doing, so don’t get discouraged, you will do fine.
This is not a web sight for DCC wiring, but they do have some good books you can purchase to have at your side to help with things. Check out www.modelrailroaderbooks.com. Ken
Trevor, As is always the case, the size of the layout and the complication needed are determining factors in DCC wiring. Things such as the ability to shut-down power to a specific track, many specific tracks, etc. need to be considered. A great book, which I have is Digitrax’s DCC manual. It covers the bases very well. Also, your right, Digitrax’s various product manuals outline what is needed very will! The Zephyr comes with it’s own manual and a general manual on decoders is also provided. These manuals are available from Digitrax’s website in downloadable PDF format (digitrax.com). Tony’s Train Exchange, Loys Toys all have a lot of information on them as do most other manufacturer’s websites. I like having a book to hold and read, to learn and figure things out. Others go for the websites.
14 gauge wire would be the best for making a power buss for dcc with 20 gauge wires going up to the rails from the buss wires. use stranded wire as it is a little stronger than solid. put a set of wires every four or five feet along the buss up to the rails. using dcc there is no need to wire for block controls.
One disagreement - for the feeder drops from the track, solid wire is usually better, it’s easier to solder to the track without leaving little ‘whiskers’ that can cause shorts or get sucked into gears or other foul things. For the heavy gauge bus wires, I agree, go with stranded, it’s a LOT easier to handle.
i’m going to disagree with the above disagreement. there is nothing wrong with using stranded wire for track feeders. twisting and tinning the wire before soldering the wire to the rail will eliminate any whiskers. solid wire will break if it gets knicked when striping the insulation off. if stranded wire is knicked it will cause maybe one strand to break off without causing a complete failure. stranded wire will also carry more current than a solid wire of the same size. my club used solid wire for their traveling layout and always has some breakage when setting up and breaking down the layout. i have convinced them to switch to stranded wire when making repairs.
Which one is Right and which one is wrong??
Answer-neither,they are both just differant methods to accomplihe same thing.Your given situation will determine needs.If you feel alot of time will be spent under the layout for one reason or another and your wiring may be in jeapardy of abuse,then stranded may be a good choice.On the other hand ,solid wire and care in attaching to the underside of the layout with minimul chance of disturbance is a very good choice.No right no wrong,just 2 differant techniques to accomplihe same end.
So you are both correct, and both firm in your opinion’s .Good for you and your particular situations
I gotta agree with Tileguy. My layout is wired with solid wire. Solid wire is just fine, if the layout isn’t going to be moved around. I also feel solid feeders are easier to solder to the track. Stranded wire is designed for instances where the wire must be able to be moved or is subject to constant movement or vibration. Solid wire is designed for instances where movement is not an issue. Is one better than the other, as far as our use is concerned? Only from the preferences of the user.
I designed my layout for block control. As such, I used 22 gauge solid wire to go from the block control switches to the blocks they control. I had concerns about the small size of my wires when I switched my layout to DCC with the Digitrax Zephyr system. However, I went ahead and wired up the Zephyr in the cab two position on my DC block system. I have had no problems! I can run two locos in consist and a third working my yard or as a local freight and see no observable problems. My RRampmeter shows adequate amperage available at all locations on the layout. My longest wire run is maybe 15 feet. I emailed Digitrax and explained my set-up to them and asked if they thought I might have a problem. They said; Hey, if it works, don’t sweat it .
If I was to start over with the intentions of wiring for DCC from the start, I would use the recommendations per the manuals etc., etc.
The reason I have brought all this up is to demonstrate that there may be many ways to skin a cat and that nothing is written in stone.
See my message in the Control Panel thread in the other section. There’s a million ways to do things, and probably half of them will work just fine. For starting new, definitely follow the recommendations on a site like Wiring for DCC. Hooking DCC up through the existing DC cab control system - sure it works fine. Digitrax even shows that in the first example in the Big Book of DCC, where they convert an existing Atlas layout to DCC, retaining the Atlas Selectors and all.
Look at the advice re feeders. Every 6 feet is a common suggestion, as is ‘to every section of flex track’. Well get this from my ACTUAL experience. I had a test track with some Bachmann EZ-Track. I had TWO sets of feeders evenly spaced around the simple oval of track, and had power drop outs. For my real layout, I am running feeders to every section of track. For carrying track power, rail joiners need not apply. Well I haven’t gotten around to running the main #12 bus wire under everything yet, but I wanted to run trains through the turnout to test the track quality, so I hooked the nearest set of feeders to my Zephyr. And even small switchers can crawl around the layout at the slowest speed with nary a flicker of the headlight - this is with ONE feeder to each rail, 8x12 essentially oval, unpowered frogs - in short, all the things they tell you NOT to do. And no, I don’t solder all my track joints, either. Do not look at this as al icense to do the old DCC “one pair of wires to the track and you’re done” - over time I’m sure I would start to have problems if I left it like this. But it just goes to show you, all kinds of crazy things will actually work.
I have had the Digitrax Chief system installed on my layout since 1998 and really enjoy it. I have had no major problems and the ones I have had were my doing something wrong. Read your manual carefully. Its not a complicated system, but some things have to be done right for a reliable system. As ststed before make sure your bus wire is heavy enough. Also, I read somewhere about using a light or buzzer with a battery installed between Rail A and Rail B whan running your bus wires. If you cross them the light will light or you sill set off the buzzer. This will keep your wires separated while wiring the layout up eliminating any chance of shorts between rails.