Atlas Classics made a RS-1 in HO for the B&O.
Last night instead of first tipping the foam packing over and gently easing the engine out, I had to grab into it from the top and lost my grip.
When the engine hit the table one of the vertical rail posts had snapped.
My question is this:
The engine was made back in the days of Life Like before they were bought by Walthers.
Do I contact Life Life for a replacement hand rail set or Walthers?
Since it’s an Atlas engine (which company is independent of either Life-Like or Walthers), I would go directly to Atlas for the parts. Their website (www.atlasrr.com) makes it easy to find the part number you need and get it ordered.
Good Luck,
Tom
Thank you for the reminder. I cannot understand how I clean forgot Atlas. I contacted them via email and will see how this resolves.
I had em out of box for testing prior to decoder and speaker installation which hopefully will happen fairly soon. They are very nice road switchers and pretty much run flawlessly on Analog power. It’s long past time they get DCC and sound.
Atlas is still making new runs of RS-1s. I’ve got a couple in DSS&A paint coming later this year. If the part isn’t in stock right now, they’ll be rerunning some more soon for the coming run.
ah… the alco RS-1. I have a NYS&W in silver paint. I love the way they sound in real life, too bad no one makes a sound one yet.
Just an Idea here…but you may want to actually call them instead of waiting on an email. Most companies have email spam blockers and I’ve heard that some of the companies that we deal with in the hobby perfer that you call them. You email may, or may not get answered.
About a year ago I wrote Atlas an email and waited 5 weeks for a response that never came. I called them and had replacement parts in 3 days. Atlas is Fantastic to deal with on the phone.
I am in communication with Atlas by email.
I share with you that the replacement handrails are about 1.75 with 2.25 in shipping and come in undecorated only. Looks like Im adding B&O paint to my want list that will stick to that slippery plastic. Im thinking Scalecoat water soluable or similar.
Has anyone else experienced trying to get paint to stay on this slippery plastic?
Go to the hobby shop and get RC car paint. It is made to stick to Lexan bodies and does a good job on Delrin handrails.
For plastic handrails I use that Krylon Plastic Bonding paint sold in department stores. (Because my hobby shop has limited paint selection) I am thiking “Royal Blue” will be a close eneugh match for B&O
Funny you bring that up… Just got home today and was thinking carefully about those Krylon paints which I have used in the past successfully.
At long last a nice BIG box arrived with chainsaw proof shipping tape in the Post Office this morning.
In it was the two sets of handrails I ordered. Flat Black and riding on the sprues in perfect condition and packed properly.
Now Im off to the store to get the Krylon Paint sometime this weekend. (And some sprue cutters too) Amazing how a simple 1.75 part replacement becomes a 10-30 dollar expedition to several stores and a hobby shop.
One could buy an RS-1 and install a Digitrax SFX decoder…
David B
OR two…
How did the Handrail Painting turn out?
James
Not yet. We are into our week now and think that we may yet get the paints midweek.
One thing on my work projects they can take months. However, this unit is high on the to do list after house work and all other items.
I will post again with pictures when it is painted… going to have to take some time to find a Krylon Paint that matches that B&O Blue. If it does not, I dont think it is too much of a problem.
Those engines are also waiting on decoders as well. I have several other things going on this summer with them.
Part of the painting challenge is that I paint outside when the temperature is between 65 and 75 with humidty levels around 45%. It’s been way above that with the constant rain these last several days under the stalled front over our area.
I used Krylon Fusion Paint that is barcoded “Sunbeam/Safety Yellow” number 2330 for plastics on a carefully masked sprue set for both engines. Leaving the sprues on thier carrier plastic is a key to good masking strength when it comes time to get the tape off after painting.
First off the Yellow sprayed on. It took me two applications one hour apart to get it all coated. Now it has the masking removed and I took the rails in to compare against the Atlas units on the workbench.
They spray painted yellow reveals to be a little “Lighter” and not as “Bright” (If such a thing makes sense) to my eyes. However the difference does not bother me.
Now it dries for 7 days. Next week, operation blue paint.
These projects sometimes are very slow time line wise. But little by little, it will get done.