I’ve got a 11x7 layout w/ a min radius of 18". Can a 60’ flatcar handle that curve? If so, where’s a good place to get them for the 1980s? I’m looking for the intermodal flatcars–the ones that hold containers.
TIA!
~Lee
One of the best places to get answers to questions like these is the NMRA. Here is a link on RPs for curvature and rolling stock.
http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/rp-11.html
Which puts your 60’ in a class N or 26.5" radius for HO. But that’s obviously not the last word. I would try very hard to get at least 22" R for 60’ cars.
Richard
Short answer, yes, most 60’ HO cars can handle an 18 inch curve. As an example, Athearn designed it’s shortened passenger cars so they could run on 18 inch curves. Those were mostly 85’ passenger cars shortened down to something like 70 or 72’ so shorter cars should handle them too. Even the SD40 and other six axle loco’s, which are a bit long, can handle 18 inch curves. The danger is if you couple a long car with a very short car, it may derail the adjacent car.
As for 60’ flat cars, the only ones I am aware of are the Model Die Casting 60’ flat cars, and 60’ bulkhead flat cars, now sold by Athearn in RTR form. Those would be appropriate for 1980’s era trains.
It was probably uncommon to see a 60’ flat car carrying containers, more likely they would be on an 89’ all purpose TOFC yellow Trailer Train flat car mounted on the pedistals. Those usually held two 40’ containers in the 80’s, although it was possible to mount longer containers.
By modern day standards, 18 inch radius are very tight curves and are part of a track system originally designed to allow a double track oval on a 4x8’ sheet of plywood. (inner 18 and outer 22 inch curves). If you want flexibility, it’s always good to go with something bigger if you can break free of the snap track (modular) standard since sooner or later you might like to operate something longer.
Since you want to run COFC cars (Container On Flat Cars), you might want to consider redoing your layout. In a 7x11 space, you could fit wider curves, such as 24 or 26 inch curves, which could handle 89’ flat cars. But if you are stuck with 18 inch curves, you could mount containers on 50 and 60
Or you might wish to consider some of those articulated 3 and 5 unit articulated flat and well cars. Should be able to get them around an 18 inch curve.
Handy curve radius rules-of-thumb from the Layout Design SIG
[:-^]
Our Friends at Bachmann have a number of 50-60 foot flat cars (various roads) with (2) short containers on board. I have a few of them. D&RGW, Evergreen, Atlantic Container, and several others.
Johnboy out…
I’ve never looked at the Bachman freight car line in years, but I assume they have upgraded them so they are a bit better than “trainset cars” if you are suggesting them. Or is that why you are whistling? 
Of course with Bachmann, like other brands, you may have to check to see how fantasy they are too, if such things matter to you, or not.
As another person pointed out, if well cars are within the OP’s era, those are good suggestions be because they are generally in the 50-60’ range for stand alone cars or even articulated units.
My old 4x8 layout has 22" R curves (the largest that will fit on a 4x8). As a test (and lack of a layout with larger radius curves), I’ve run my 6 axle RSD-12, Walthers smooth side passenger car, 86’ Hi Cubes / Auto racks, 73’ center beam flatcar, 60’ auto parts box, etc… with no trouble (but they look ridiculous). The passenger car, when taking the diverging route (of a curved turnout) to the inside passing track, rubs (but doesn’t derail) on my Caboose Industries ground throw (which may have been installed too close to the track centerline. I did super elevate the curves (.040" I think) which I think helps a bit to straighten out the curve a bit. If you can, install .040 strip styrene under the outside rail; it’s not really noticeable that the trains lean into the curve, but I guess it helps just enough.
Ironically, an old Roundhouse 40’ gondola had a truck swing issue with the metal underframe (after my attempt to lower the car and install correct sized wheels). This was fixed by turning the car over, rotating the truck until the wheels interfered with the underframe. Mark this area with a marker then use a Dremel tool with a round burr bit and remove the material until there is no interference. Come to think of it, I did this to a Roundhouse bathtub gondola too.