Hello, could anyone tell me what grit of sand paper works to best to sand cork roadbed before I lay my track down. Or do I use multiple grits like wood, course to fine. I know to use a sanding block so I do not make any divits in the road bed. Any other usefull suggestions are great. Thanks Mike, Richmond, ME
a little “surform” tool by stanley works well for me. it looks like a little grater. used primarily in auto body shops and by woodworkers. you can get one at most any hardware store tool department or perhaps wally-world.
grizlump
Grizlump, I had thought about using a surform for the cork, my question is this, I did not include this in my original post, I am doing this to N scale cork. Will the surform take to much cork and cause the left to right alignment of the cork to become out of balance, or just ensure that you are level when doing this. Thanks Mike
I use 120 grit on a sanding block. Works great! Make sure you vaccum after.
Scott
Mike,
I also use a surform tool. It’s very controllable. More or less pressure takes more or less off. Makes it easy to ease transitions and grades, too.
I use foam track bed on my layout, so I am unfamiliar with cork.
Do you always sand cork before laying track on it and, if so, why?
Rich
There’s a cork roadbed shaping fixture on page 57 of the Kalmbach book,“How to Build Realistic Reliable Track” from 2009. I’ve used this fixture to sand the rough edges off my N scale Midwest cork roadbed. I sand my roadbed before I glue it down with DAP acrylic latex caulk. If you’ve installed your roadbed on a smooth surface your shouldn’t have any large bumps in it. I’ve not done it yet on my roadbed, but I think 120 grit sandpaper should be adequate to get any small irregularities out of the surface after it’s down.
Bob
If you are only sanding off some of the humps or irregularities, just sand w/ a sanding block. Just continue to ck w/ a straightedge and check for level. As you work you will get the feel as how to control for level or side pressure if needed. The Surform will work if large amout of cork needs to be removed (ramping transitions etc). It will “rip/ gouge” rather than cleanly “sand” down smooth. A smooth plane w/ an extremely sharp/ honed iron will cut cork quickly and has great control. Just need to pass @ a slight angle to the roadbed for the “slice”
The differing "brands"and age of the cork itself determines how well it will actually sand. As said, the Midwest is more rubbery like and is more difficult.
You can fab your our sanding block from 1x and cut the length to suit the paper. 3M sanding belts (3x24) 80# cut to halved work quite well on a piece of 1 1/2" x 10". Can even fab a handle like that used on a smooth plane. Other sanding blocks like DW hand sand using 80# paper or screen are available as well. The smaller the sanding block the least control you will have for attaining a smooth, level surface. Finish off w/ 120#
I would refrain from using a belt sander, unless you are experienced w/ one, each belt sander has it’s own serious learning curve, you need to be rather good w/ a particular tool to perform tasks like this, I have been using belt sanders for more years than I can recall, if you really feel confident w/ controlling one, these work fantastic for tranitions, upeasings or overeasings and even if you’re real good, sup
I use a foam sanding block – the kind that look like sponges – such as you can buy at any hardware store, although I was able to find some that were longer than normal and they work well. Just about any normal grit should work just fine. Don’t forget to sweep or vaccum up the cork dust afterwards.
Dave Nelson
I’ve used a belt sander when making the transition from mainline to sidings, but on the mainline, a palm sander with 120 grit paper (stick-ons, actually) makes quick work of roadbed. AND it knocks off that sharp edge on the sides, too.
I use a rough file, for the edge of the roadbed. It makes a very nice contour for me. I have never had to sand the top of my roadbed. I do use a belt sander for transitions from main to yards and sidings. I think the secret to track laying is using good quality plywood for the sub base. I nail my roadbed and my track down, just don’t set it so tight it makes dimples.
Since cork roadbed is generally composed of two halves, where they meet in the middle can be a little ragged. Depending on your glue and technique for applying it, it may also have small seeps that stick up.
With straight track, this is rarely an issue. Curves and places where you have turnouts, etc where you have cut and place ;pieces of cork tend to be the places where I’ve found it useful to smooth things out with the surform. When your roadbed has a rough spot – I know, it’s not supposed to, but no one’s perfect – shaving things can remove the ‘bump’ if it’s a minor one.
Personally, I don’t believe I’ve ever used sandpaper on cork. The surform does a good job if you have a light touch with it, although it sounds like some aren’t as comfortable using it I am. YMMV