Sanding sealer

So back when I did model rockets, to completely cover the wood grain in the fins, I used to use Testor’s sanding sealer. Seems they don’t make that anymore. Looks liek the only two choices commonly available is Midwest or some stuff from Pinecar. Any recommendations? Wood is basswood, I want to completely hide the grain so it looks like metal or plastic. The old Testor’s stuff definitely did this, so I’m looking for what will work in a similar fashion.

–Randy

You can find Bull’s Eye shellac sanding sealer premixed, or but the bull’s Eye white shellac and thin w/ denatured alcohol. The advantage of the separate/ mix yourself, is that the first quick drying coat can be thinned to 1 shellac to 3-4 parts alcohol. For that extremely smooth finish the remaining 3 or 4 succusive coats can be closer to 1-1 ratio. You will need at least 2 coats, let dry and then lightly sand between coats. If you are priming before the final coats you may skip a few coats. I use this technique for pre staining woodwork (1 coat), multiple coats on pine and ply to gain grain free gloss finishes on woodwork/ cabinetry. This also did an excellent job for my son’s Pinewood Derby car. When he finally clearcoated the car it was as good as any automotive finish. Wet-or Dry paper used dry is good for clog free sanding.

For sealing our laser cut basswood or balsa the shellac can be applied 1-1 and coat both sides. For quick coating and drying, deft clear finishes work excellent. Comes in various lusters of finish and the laquer will dry in 15 minutes and no chance of warping quite thin wood panels as can happen slightly due to quite thinned alcohol.

Seems like the Aerogloss should do what you want:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mid/mid71-1.htm

Did it not work for you?

The trouble w/ some of the “hobby” products is that those couple ounces of product can be replaced with pints or quarts for the same price and do the same job. This of coarse isn’t always true, as certain modeling paints/ products do far better when used w/ the compatible thinners, etc.

When I was building model airplanes, I used to mix talcum powder with the dope. It did fairly well. I guess you could try mixing talcum powder with apple barrel type paints.

But I have just put a couple of coats of apple barrel type paint on bass wood and it seemed to do OK when sanded down.

Agreed. But then it depends on how much of the stuff you intend to use. And does one want to keep the partially used can/bottle of product in the basement for the next 15 years.

Liquitex makes an acrylic wood sealer, which is widely available at art and craft stores (Michaels and AC Moore). This works very well, and dries in about half an hour. I usually do two coats with a light sanding (400 grit) in between, and no wood grain shows at all.

I like lacquer as a sanding sealing good coverage that sinks into the wood and it dries fast.[C):-)]

Dulcote , or however you spell it, is as good as anything else & I usually have some on hand. Also good for waterproofing signs printed on an ink jet printer.