When I went to Home Depot a few days ago I noticed different varieties of sandpaper.
Smooth, Finish, and Rough.
I know am not getting rough. So the question is what sandpaper to get to get out a nice smooth finish look?
I would say the finer the better. Like some of the sandpaper in headlight polishing kits.
Look for 600 grit paper in the paints section.
I would go with 1000 or higher grit
Angelob6660,
If You want a really smooth finish…don’t even use sandpaper…sandpaper fills up with sanding dust real fast and You actually fill in the microscopic scratches with that same dust. You will also go through sandpaper faster. I recommend You try scuff pads…right after priming for a ultra smooth finish, if that is what You desire. I use Mirka ultra fine, but there are other brands, like 3M. I buy them by the case, but You can also buy them single in Automotive Paint/body shop suppliers. They also can be washed and reused, unlike sandpaper. They do come in a large variety of finishes. I used to do a lot of 1:1 painting of cars/trucks and works just as well on Models:
https://mirka-online.com/18-111-448-mirka-mirlon-6-in-x-9-in-ultra-fine-scuff-pad-gray-qty-20.html
A pic’ of a 1/14 scale RC Truck kit that I redid for one of My Grandson’s follows:
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Also a pic’ of one of My classic’s that I restored in the 90’s…a 49 Ford Flat Head V8, with overdrive:
Hi,
The OP’s question leaves me asking… what is to be sanded? Is it plywood edges of benchwork? Or a small plastic detail part, or ???
Obviously, one size / type doesn’t fit all. And as mentioned, depending on the job, emory cloth may be a better answer.
In any case, it wouldn’t hurt to have both sandpaper and emory cloth on hand, in various grit selections…
Yeah, that’s the question. What is being sanded? Cork, perhaps?
Rich
Here is a good guide to sand paper grades.
https://www.bobvila.com/articles/2145-quick-tip-choosing-sandpaper/#.WKQ-OtQrJR0
Rich
You and Rich bring up a great point…for some strange reason (must be an old age thing) it totally slipped My mind when I answered this post, although when I started, I had it foremost in My thoughts…Duh!..No excuses…LOL[banghead]
Take Care! [sigh]
Frank
Except that you could be right, Frank. You may have picked the right surface to be sanded. [8D]
Rich
I keep a wide range of sandpaper on hand, as you never know when you’re going to need any particular grade. It’s not that I’m all that interested in sandpaper, but I came into a great deal of it some years ago in a house which we purchased.
The grades ranged from #36 garnet paper (great for sanding cork quickly) through a complete range of paper and cloth-backed sandpaper of many grades and abrasive materials to wet/dry sandpapers from #50 to #3600. I didn’t have need of a lot of the latter, and sold most of it to a nearby body shop: there was enough of that type alone to fill the box of my pick-up right to the top!
I use all of the grades I have in model railroading, depending on what needs to be done, and I have some that don’t clog readily at all…very long-lasting and easy to use.
Wayne
Like the other guys said;what are you sanding? just to reduce size? or prepare to paint/ or to add texture.
I use 80 thru 400, each has thire place.
LIONS do not bother with sand paper, except ro use as roofs on flat roof buildings.
ROAR
To all people who asked.
What I’m sanding is a small strip of 1/2 x 3/4 inch Pine moulding wood. It will be the frame of the layout. Examples for Switching Work on Southern Ry. and the MRVP Thomas layout project. ( If you remember MRVP posted on YouTube).
Without knowing the wood current condition. Ie. How rough is it currently. I would say a 200. 250. Then 400. To finish it.
I have a building with a sandpaper roof on my layout. That is exactly what I thought of when I read the thread title.
for general sanding i use open coat don’t seem to clog as fast , for finer i prefere wet or dry.
Angelob6660,
Please try next time to include all pertinent info regarding Your thread title to help others help You. Would make it much easier to know what You want to use something for. I for one would not have answered…any and all parting stop I ever bought came plain and smooth Pine, never needing a sanding and I use a lot of 3/4 x 3/4 either rubbed on wood stain or brushed.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
The pieces are almost clean with some tiny splinters.
OK now we know the purpose. Wood is generally sanded with increasingly finer grits of sandpaper, because it’s actually quicker that way. The higher the number, the finer the grit.
60-120 would probably give you more scratches than you already have. If you were doing a project with salvaged wood, you might start there. BUT that is NOT what you are doing.
220 would quickly knock off the fine splinters then quickly change to 320, and finish with 400 or 600 if you are perfectionist. To get an almost shiny finish, you have to go to the auto parts store and get some 1000, or 2000 grit, but that is overkill for bench work. I used 1200 to get an ultra smooth finish on pistol grip made from burl walnut.
The stuff that is sand colored, wears out quickly. Garnet is much more durable. 3M has a purplish sand paper that is extremely durable. I have limited experience with sanding sponges. I expect you pay for the “convenience” of the little block.
Wet dry sandpaper is handy to have for sanding both metal and wood, but again, you don’t need that.