That describes the product best… molded in wood grain and it looks fake. I don’t know exactly what it is called, but it is “fiber cement”, comes in 4 by 8 sheets, and is supposed to be immune to insects, water, and will stand up to a hurricane.
But, as I said, it looks terrible.
My backyard caboose will be a fakey looking nightmare, but it might be where I take shelter in the next CAT-3 storm!
That is a very cute house. I showed it to my wife and she loved it.
-Kevin
I appreciate all the help I received putting this parts list together.
I have placed the order with Northeastern.
I ordered:
1/16 clapboard: 4 pieces
3/32 clapbaord: 3 pieces
1/8 clapboard: 1 piece
3/64 scribed: 2 pieces
1/16 scribed: 2 pieces
3/32 scribed: 1 piece
1/8 scribed: 1 piece
1/8 beaded: 1 piece
3/16 board & batten: 1 piece
Lots of stripwood:
20 10 x 10s
30 8 x 8s
30 6 x 6s
30 4 x 4s
20 4 x 6s
20 4 x 8s
10 2 x 12s
20 2 x 10s
20 2 x 8s
20 2 x 6s
40 2 x 4s
30 2 x 2s
6 corner posts
-Kevin
This thread has been an education. Sheldon, you certainly know how to substantiate your points, both about grain and lap siding. In my first reply I said i thought 1/8 clapboard looks good. Now I can see it is out of scale, at least for milled lumber in HO. We had a house in Coos Bay, OR, that had about 10 inch lap siding, but I know it was plywood. No grain showed on that either by the way.
Off topic now, I logged in by accident under my original Southgate–not 2-- on my phone, something I couldn’t do to save my life a few months ago.(note crane in avatar on this post). Tried to log out on my computer from S’2. It won’t let me. It’s wierd to be logged in as Southgate 2 on the ‘puter, and see ol’ Southgate on there too! (Hi Dan) hmm. I have 2 accounts.
Um, Hi back, Dan.[:-^] (Can’t post pix from the phone…)
I showed my wife that house too. We both love the colors.
Kevin, in that inventory, are those individual strips of scale stick lumber, or packages?
Just for kicks, how about combining styrene and wood? This is a WIP I’m on currently. Kind of an experiment. It uses the strength of a styrene structure, rock solid, with the detail and texture of Northeastern and other woods. I use Gorrilla clear glue to lam the wood sheathing onto the styrene. Not the glue you have to wet.
Here’s an angle shot of the real structure, a fuzzy picture of a fuzzy picture:
And that area on the model so far:
The plywood sheets on that one extension are just 1/32 scribed sheet turned backwards, plain side out. I don’t know that I’ll repeat this technique. It’s super strong, yes. But what forces will be wrought upon it on the layout, right? Dan
Kevin,
I am very familiar with the fiber cement 4x8 sheets you are referring to. They are simply a fiber cement replacement for T-111 plywood siding, which is intended to look like rustic barn siding.
We use lots of fiber cement clapboard siding made by that same company, James Hardie. We use the smooth version of their fiber cement clapboard. It too is very good for storm environments.
If you really want something that looks like a railroad caboose, there are other choices. I will post some choices later.
Sheldon
Yes it has. I have been very happy with how this thread has developed. I learned a lot, and I think I ordered the right materials for my future projects.
They are individual strips 24 inches long. When they arrive I will cut them into 8 inch long pieces and store them in PVC pipes. I have found this to be an easy system that keeps the pieces seperated and easy to access. It also prevents damage.
If I ever need strips longer than 8 inches I will be out of luck.
No need for any more information. The caboose project is at least two years away, and my wife might change her mind before then.
Thank you for all the information.
-Kevin
Kevin,
A few ideas about using wood to build models:
Storage: Here are three classic storage methods …
Method one is to hang the plastic bags on a rack like you see them at the LHS (what’s that?). Advantage is not having to process the wood when you buy – just hang it up. Drawback is the space it takes up in the modeling area.
Method two: Store it in a box rack: Advantage easy to find items. Drawback: having to process wood and cut it up to store it – also means no long pieces.
Guy, Thank you for all of that information and ideas. There was a lot there.
Your post really could be its own thread. I appreciate you taking time to share it all.
-Kevin
I loved his stuff. It inspired me when I was starting out.
To stain I use stain markers- there are two types one more like a paint pen and one more like a marker. I use the marker types- I had gotten some at Home Depot and Dollar Tree. Quite easy- non warping and quick drying.
I have used the Minwax stain pens on some wooden building projects with excellent results.
-Kevin
The order of scale stripwood and siding has arrived. I am 100% positive I have enough for several projects, and 99% sure I will have all the supplies on hand I will need for the rest of my life.
I ordered 25 8" clear tubes and red end caps from U-Line to store the stripwood.
I rigged up a makeshift chopper to cut the stripwood into eight inch lengths that would fit in the tube. It took about a hour to cutup all the stripwood pieces.
The plastic tubes are perfect for me to hold the stripwood. They do not take up too much space, provide good protection, and they can be tossed into a drawer when they are not being used.
I want to again thank everyone that helped out with information so I could make a good purchase. One more lifetime supply can be checked off of the list.
-Kevin