Scratch builders, what wood choppers do you recommend? I ask this because years ago, when into HO, I bought a wood chopper which was a bar with handle that you mounted a razor blade to. It was mounted to a piece of masonite. The whole thing was a piece of junk.
The problem was when cutting trestle ties, the razor blade would flex, and scallop each cut end, which then required dressing. What a pain. I noticed Micro Mark has a small radial saw, is it worth it?
I usually don’t but things on the cheap. I like quality.
Unfortunately that is almost the same tool - Metal base and masoite base!
I have been using the Masonite base chopper for years with no problems.
YOU have to have a Sharp Blade!
Cutting real soft wood is a problem.
As for the Electric chopper saw
I have one from Harbor Freight - and it works great and the price is a LOT LESS than Micro mark - and it gets a real work out - as I cut a lot of twigs for LOG Loads.
I put mine on a longer OAK wood base and built up the ends so that I could hold LONG pieces of Strip Wood.
Thanks Ulrich. Actually I have a miniature jig and table saw out in the shop. Wanting something quick an easy for in the basement. I don’t use the jig much, as I am not the best at freehand.
Not putting down any jig saws. I have a couple which I do like…but I found, using a scroll saw is a lot easier to use with better control. You can always see the blade and the work, plus you have both hands free. I have a 18’’ inch throat Craftsman that I got years ago, built an adjustable rip fence for it and I thought it was a good buy for the money.
The chopper II is a lot more robust, than the masonite one, better precision, also the blades to get are Industrial single edge zirconium nitride coated blades, the most sharpest durable blades there are, worth the extra money, in the long run.
I used to build wood sailing ships. Still love it but my shakey left hand don’t. Can be a pita, when it comes to rigging.
The scroll saw I have, you can change the blades, to different sizes and cuts.
Yeah! about the tools. Owning my own trucks, three at once, along with playing with race cars, taught me many things. You can’t work on most truck bolts with a half inch drive socket set. 3/4 and inch, now your talking…but you need deep pockets, how well I know that.
I was fortunate to work as a metal worker & I made a chopper from all heavy gauge steel with an aluminum cutting surface. The razor blade is secured with 2 screws & a steel backing. Will cut any thickness wood or plastic used for model work, also does a good jod on paper. Micro mark, or someone else should make a heavy duty one for serious modelers, after all a good one would be a once in a lifetime purchase…mine is over 30 years old.
Frank… yup, learned that on my 66 Chevelle 396 SS. Love tools. Love em , love em, love em.
Oh… Frank, sorry. I reread your earlier reply, and there must be a difference between the “jig” and the “scroll”. Gotta go google that again. I had just looked at the pictures and did not read the description… duh.
Frank, Hmmmm now I have to go out to the shop and look at mine. It’s an older Craftsman, that I thought was a jig saw. Now I’m confused on the difference between a jig and a scroll.
Ahhh, just read Jay’s information. Ok, I have a scroll saw… neat. Thanks Jay.
I have an original North West Short Line Chopper and their newer Chopper III – both use a single edge razor blade that will bend when trying to cut through material denser than balsa or stripwood larger than 1/8 inch across.
