just a quick question on finish up a loco project, it have it painted with gloss paint and have applied microscale decals, wich by the way don’t always stick too well… at any rate I think i need to put some sort of semi-gloss clearcoat or something to seal the decals onto the model as well as sealing the paint. Is this correct?
Hello!
I think you should visit your local hobbyshop and ask for Testor’s Dullcoat - I use it both as a background on shiny models under decals, and then to seal decals and weathering that I want to keep one or both of these intact [:)].
Hope this helps!
Best regards from Olav M
What do you mean ‘‘they don’t stick too well’’? Microscale\Superscale are the best decals you can buy, when applied properly they produce superior results over any of the other brands.
How do you apply them? Do you use Solvaset or Microset? Decals don’t stick well to flat painted or bare plastic surfaces.
The answer to the question of overcoating is, yes you need an overcoat…for a gloss finish, Testors Gloscote laquer…for a flat finish…Testors Dulcote laquer. I always apply a coat of gloss before I decal, and when the decals are dry [usually I let them set overnite] I apply a coat of Gloscote over them to seal them, then after that dries, {4 hrs or so] I put a final coat of either flat or gloss on as a finish cote, this method has worked extremely well for me for 25+ years.
alright thanks guys i guessei should go out and get some dull coat then. I have put the decals on a gloss finish enamel paint yet sometimes i still have them come loose… not all the time just once. I ususaly place teh decal in warm water for at least en seonds sometiems longer for a bigger decal, then set it on the model and use tweezers to slide it from the backing and onto the model, i position it with a cotton swab and lighlty dab the decal with a paer towel to remove the excess water… So i’m hoping the dull coat will seal these in and not have them come off.
You need to use a setting solution like MicroSol or Solvaset, (both available at the hobby shop), before you seal the decals with a clear coat. Read the instructions that are printed on the envelope that the decals are packaged in.
If you don’t use a setting solution the decals won’t stick very well. The MicroSol or Solvaset softens the decals and helps it conform to the surface and eliminates air between the decal and the model surface, this process helps make the decals “stick”. It takes several applications of the solutions, watch for little pockets of air under the decal (frosty spots) and pop them with a sharp pin or a brand new blade in your xacto knife, then apply another coat of setting solution with a brush and let it dry. Repeat this several times. Then let the model dry for 24 hours before you finish it with gloss or dull coat.
Ten seconds isn’t much time for soaking any decal. They need to be soaked long enough to remove any residue that holds them to the backing paper. Ten seconds is less than I’d allow for a single digit when changing dimensional data, let alone for a roadname or herald. Also, use a decal setting solution, like Microset, Microsol, or Solvaset. Any of these will help the decal to hold better. Depending on the finish you want, Dulcote, Gloscote, or a semi-gloss mixture of both will work well. Unless you’re weathering with chalk, apply the clear spray before weathering, not after.
Wayne
Olav,
I may be misreading you here. Decals should be positioned on a glossy surface. Setting on a Dullcoated or flat finish most likey will cause silvering (foggy hazy look). I generally paint w/ Floequil which is flat. I either need to airbrush gloss or spot brush Future Floor Finish for small jobs. Yes, then when dry Dullcoat.
Hello bogp40!
Tanks for that tip! I usually use flat paints, and have not had the problem of frosty looking letters yet. Maybe it is so because I usually dust down/weather heavilly the models I decal myself…
I plain forgot to gloss coat the last couple of locos I painted, I didn’t realize until it was too late and the difference was noticeable, but as they are heavily weathered Alco’s & FM’s they didn’t turn out too bad in the long run. I’ve put it in the ‘learnt the hard way’ basket.
Previous paint jobs were fine, it had been a while since I had done them and it just slipped my mind.
There’s a middle ground on the paints. You can also use a semi-gloss, or “satin” finish. This works as a base coat before you apply decals, without giving you the “shiny new car” look. You can also use it after applying decals. In this case, you will get a more realistic “new” locomotive look than you would with gloss finish.
If you plan to dirty up and weather the engine, though, you might as well go with Dul-Cote as the finish after the decals. Dul-Cote takes weathering powders well. After applying weathering powders, give it another application of Dul-Cote to seal it.
I find the finish on Walther’s product, although are semi gloss, require hitting the spots with gloss. I first noticed this on applying decals on some of my Walther’s heavyweights.
The dark blue of the B&O paint might make the silvering show more readily.
Most of the decal problem has been well covered in the preceding posts. I use Floquil paint and thin it about 40% and add some crystal coat to it. After the paint is dry I overspray the entire model with Crystal Coat and then decal. Some kind of setting agent is required to get the decal to “stick” to the model. After the decals are dry the model is washed gently to remove any setting agent and other stuff. A mix of Dull/Gloss coat is then oversprayed on the model. I use Scalecoat 2 thinner for thinning Testors Dull/Glosscote.
Scale coat paint dries to a gloss finish so the clear gloss paint isn’t needed. Scalecoat 1 is for metal and should be baked to dry. Scalecoat 2 is for plastic. I use a lite grey primer under all paint. Floquil has one and for Scalecoat I use their MofW Grey for a primer.
In some situations yes but you could try spread water over them and let it dry or you can visit your local hobby store and ask an employee.
DNLTTT
(Do Not Listen To The Troll)
David B