Ok, my first shot at putting something up here was pretty bad. I went back and read some things i was pointed to and came up with a modification of a design i was shown.
Aside from the S curve on the main bottom (i think that is what it is), does anything else stick out that looks really bad? I am trying to keep it simple and dual mains was just not going to work. Space is 12x5 on 2" foam framed. This setup is suspended from the ceiling and retracts when i need my garage back for work on my jeep. Any and all comments are welcome. Sorry for the “look at my layout” thread but this is how i can evolve and get this setup rolling with what i have. Here are a few pics of the retractable setup.
The layouts on that page were done with flextrack and you appear to be working with sectional track, which is less efficient of space. But trimming some of the sections can help.
I know it can be tricky using CAD if you are not experienced with it, but I do notice a few issues on your version. As you note, the S-curve at the bottom of the main oval is a concern and could be removed, especially in the extra length that you have.
You’ve also removed one of the key elements of the original design, which is the reversing connection that allows trains that leave the yard to return without a backing move. Unless you are purposely trying to avoid reversing connections, I think that’s worth trying to include.
You have some tracks very close to the edge of the benchwork. The original plan is already tighter than I would like in that regard, with only about 2½” in a few spots from the track center to the edge. Yours seems even less. 3”or more is better in HO.
Track-to-track spacing may also be a concern, including where straight tracks come near curves. As one builds a layout, even with sectional track, it’s easy to trim pieces to fit. It can be difficult to trim sectional track in some CAD programs, but is worth exploring.
The yard is shorter than it would need to be if you employed the approach I used in having it begin from the diverging leg of the turnout. This avoids S-curves as shown below and increases the useable length.
I was planning on making a “box” up on the ceiling so i could pull it up and it would encase it and keep the dust out. The garage is heated/cooled so warping will not be a huge issue. I also built the frame using a Kreg Jig to make the pocket holes along with wood glue so the flex is minimal. It has a 2" foam sheet on top and is very light. I have a boatload of kato unitrack and that is why i am using it initially. I may decide to get flextrack once i have the design down and use the unitrack on a wall switching layout. Who knows and thanks for the compliments. There is a manual boat winch used to crank it up to the ceiling. The automatic winch was going to be too loud!
