Setting old decals down on wood, which solvent

I provided the information about the probable inadequacy of the Micro Set and Micro Sol products to assist the OP in eliminating these as a potential solution. These excellent products are intended for use with new decals.

I too have extensive experience placing decals although I do not include this expertise on my CV.

Yet we never see it.

I have shared all of mine. It is time for the “expert in everything” to put some proof into his pudding.

Another set of 50 year old decals from Whit Tower’s collection I purchased:

-Kevin

Really not interested. Posting photos is not sufficiently convenient.

My ego requires no further boosting and would be impervious to criticism. I have nothing to prove and no need to prove it were that not the case.

I’m really, really disappointed nobody noticed my changed avatar.

That’s the old BB undecorated F7A I purchased new (really NIB) forty years ago and only recently painted and decaled.

I’m absurdly pleased that my old model making skills remain reasonably good despite not using them for so long.

PS your photos show very good work, btw. There’s no doubt about your expertise there.

I have never critcized a picture another modeler has shared of their work.

I always post compliments and encouragement when efforts are shared.

Posting pictures is easy, I am sure many here would help you if needed.

You can email me the pictures, and I will post them. I have done that for a few people.

-Kevin

Me also.

That’s not what he said. He said it didn’t work for his situation … and then described that situation well enough for me to glean what his actual problems were likely to be. (As, I think, did you.)

Sometimes people don’t know how to ask the right questions; sometimes they try to jump closer to the situation by saying what they have tried that didn’t work (or work well enough). Someone in the emergency room complaining of chest pain who says stimulants didn’t help him should not be accused of not knowing the differential diagnosis for myocardial infarction… especially if they are a bit worked up over having the problem…

At least I think we now know mto ask the full question in the first post instead of being Tom Wolfe’s test pilot who gets ‘I’ve tried A; I’ve tried B’ over the radio ASAP before buying the harp farm…

Can we recap by listing the right procedure, step-by-step, for old tired decal film that is ‘delaminating’ from its substrate? Kevin has given us a good example of laying brittle old decals down ‘new’ – and I’d like to see him recap the steps he used, and the cautions associated with them. (In particular, although this only peripherally affects the OP’s issues, what does he recommend to hold these down when the original decal adhesive is likely deteriorated.)

Sorry, with all the dust flying around I missed this response.

I am glad that you found something that worked… on the first try no less!

We need a hand-clapping emoji!

-Kevin

What was stated was…

Which is false, according to the Microscale web site, my experience, and a history of printed how-to information.

It is misleading to newcomers and damages Micro-Scales status as a quality manufacturer.

-Kevin

Sorry, I thought you were referring to the OP leading his post by saying Micro-Sol didn’t work in this situation for him. (I did surmise from that that Micro-Set would be even less likely to work for him, but that follows whether or not Micro-Set improves flexibility as noted).

Hey with all this bickering going on, if something would work even better, I am all ears as I don’t know if I want to do this on the car body, it might not work every time and there is the longevity factor too, unknown.

You have already had greater success than I would dare to have predicted.

Longevity should not be an issue once all the solvents have fully dried.

I would seal the model with a coat of glosscoat followed by a coat of dullcoat, but that is my standard method and not special to your situation.

Now that we are on page 2, hopefully all the turmoil will settle.

-Kevin