Shelf layout - garage - cinderblock walls

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

All-

I’d like to start building a shelf layout that will go along the inside walls of my garage however I’m not clear as to the best way to mount wall brackets. 3 sides of the garage have exposed cinderblock. Can anyone recommend the best way to mount brackets and offer any other suggestions? I tried to build some 2x4 brackets but they easily pulled out of the cinderblock with the blue masonry screws.

Thanks in advance.

2

You have a couple of possibilities here:

  1. What access do you have to wood framing (rafters, or a roof plate) at the top of the walls? You could anchor 2 x 4s, wide side parallel to the wall, at the top, and brace them at the bottom with lag bolts. Brackets go on the 2 x 4s
  2. Have you tried the expanding screw sets (Mollies) that go into drilled holes in the cinder block. They don’t depend on threads in the soft, crumbly block for holding strength.
  3. The 2 x 4 against the wall could be given an L-shaped “foot” which would project the width of the shelf out into the central space.
  4. As a last resort, you could build free-standing tables instead of shelves.

A long time ago I was living in a place where I absolutely, positively could not put any holes in the walls (Air Force base housing.) I used a variant of the free-standing table, with the wall-side legs extended upward flat against the wall. That gave me a place for wall tracks and brackets for a couple of bookshelves above the layout surface.

For lightness, you might want to try steel stud material in place of 2 x 4s.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

3

You could install a stud wall - the top plate is fastened to the ceiling joists and the bottom plate to the floor with cut nails.

You could glue 1x3 furring strips to the walls - I don’t know how much weight they could take.

Easiest would be to build narrow tables that can stand next to the wall - this is the route I would take.

Good luck

Paul

4

Try using toggle bots to attach your 2 x 4s. Since the concrete block are hollow this would be an ideal application.

5

The problem you’re having with the Tapcon screws (blue masonry screws) not holding is that you’re probably drilling too big a hole for them. Try a masonry drill bit of the next smaller available size.

6

The proper way to do this is to think beyond what you’re attempting to do. Strap the wall, or even better, build a full stud wall, anchoring it to the floor and the ceiling joists, then apply drywall. You can then add your shelf brackets as required. Not only will this give you a solid attachment point for the layout, but you’ll also have a much nicer environment in which to work (and play), plus a backdrop ready-to-paint.

Wayne

7

Are we complicating this for the OP? I had the same problem in my basement.

  1. Get a masonry drill. Ryobi makes a cheap one … I got that one because I don’t think I will put >25 screws each time I build a layout.

  2. Get the anchor bolts made for concrete/cinder block, follow instrctbd on both items.

Done! A couple of hours at Home Depot should set you up.

Neeraj.

8

It may not be so much that your masonry bit is “too large”, apparently you were not drilling the holes w/ a roto-hammer. Even using the proper sized bit for the sized Tapcon, a regular drill will walk within the concrete as it hits small stone causing the hole to be irregular causing the threads to loose hold.'As other mention, you would be far better off, either gluing/ strapping the wall or studding whether 2x flat or standard frame. Wood 2x4 brackets alone may not hold well even if the fasteners seemed to grab properly, there is just too much force pulling on the tapcon using just wall brackets alone.

9

Don’t drill the holes in the cinderblock, drill them in the mortar…

Cheers

Frank

10

First, do you really need 2 X 4’s? Second, get a masonry drill bit and use lead anchors, not the plastic ones, and machine head screws. Go to a real hardware store, with employees who know what they are talking about, and ask them about the screw/anchor sizes that would be appropriate. And, wash your hands thoroughly after handling the anchors.

11

You might try a construction adhesive to glue your wood to the block walls. Liquid Nails and other brands offer adhesives for high strength applications. Clean off the block surface with a wire brush prior to applying the adhesive. I would suggest trying out a sample application first. After figuring out some way of temporarily pressing or clamping the wood piece against the wall, glue a single wood piece where you’ll want it and let the adhesive cure. Then try attaching whatever support system you’ll be using and test the support strength. If you can sit on the support, its not coming off the block wall.

12

HI

I don’t know about the US but would imagine its similar to both the UK and Aus in that the garage wall, will not be double block or brick it will only be single.

So my sugestion is get a good filler fill the holes.

Then in acordance with local building regulations and standards frame up the walls put some insulation in the wall frames make sure the electrician is next then line it with whatever the local wall sheeting is called.

While your at it funds permiting do the cieling as well I cannot overstate the need for an all year round comfortable and easy clean area to build your railway.

I cannot coment on what if anything it will add to property value but thats not the point

The point is thats where you want to build your railroad you need something solid to mount it to, and you need a comfortable easy to clean work area.

Hope this is of help

regards John

13

“Slammin” gave the quickest and surest method…Toggle Bolts.

Bore into the center of the block cavities. Attach a toggle bolt through the 2X4 running parallel to the floor. Do not horribly over tighten the bolt. Just good and snug. Put them about every 12-18" along the wall. If the shelf is narrow, (less than 24"), there will be little load on this 2X4 anyway. An occasional leg on the outside shelf table 2X4 will share the load. Just a little measuring and planning and this will go very fast.

Toggle bolts work incredibly well.

Richard

14

I’d be inclined to do this since I don’t have a hammer drill, etc. I could see that trying to clamp / press the wood to the wall could be a hassle though. Toggle bolts sound like a good idea.

I have a similar situation - I’ve built two stud walls to cordon off a train room in the basement but now I’m faced with some painted poured concrete walls to stud or whatever.