So I started drawing out my track plan onto my benchwork and have run into a space problem. Originally I planned to just use a combination of #4 turnouts but knew that this could leave me with a space problem. Yep it has, my runaround track in an industrial area is only 4 carlengths not good.
I need a double slip. Checking the big book shows several variations but most are rather long with shallow frog angles. Not to mention most are code 83 while I’m code 100. But Shinohara lists a code 100 double slip with a 15 degree frog (almost perfect 25 would be better but I can use 15) This would allow me to fit in a much better 6 carlength runaround and maybe one more track for a factory.
So how well do the Shinohara double slips hold up? Do they work well? How well do they fit up to Atlas code100 track? I know some brands use different tie thickness or odd webbing on the rail. Cosmetics are secondary to function here and I plan on manual control of the points.
Experiences or reccomendations welcome but this is NOT something I’d like to handlay.
The LHS that I get most of my supplies from has an in-store layout that uses Shinohara double slip switches. That layout has been in place since I started going there in 2002, and when asked, they say that they’ve NEVER had to replace any of them in all that time.
You could probably find a hand-laid one on ‘that’ auction site, and maybe someone selling such things would make one as you would prefer it…even a custom one. I’ll bet the price difference between the usual commercial ones and those made by individuals won’t differ hugely in price, but the performance would be better on a properly made hand-laid one.
on my previous layout, i had two code 100 number 6 shinohara double slips that performed perfectly well for about 8 years. i salvaged most of the track and one of them is now in use on my current layout in a high traffic area and it still works fine. it is in a rather complex interlocking plant where scale speed is limited to about 30 mph.
all my locomotives have 8 wheel pickup and i have no steam with less than 8 drivers so i can’t comment on potential stalling problems with short wheelbased power.
i did notice that some equipment bounced a bit going through them so i added a thin bit of styrene to the frogs for the flanges to ride on and eliminate the excessive wheel drop. (a 2 minute project)
these are used in conjuction with atlas code 100 flex track and caboose industries ground throws.
keep in mind that these switches are over 20 years old as are all of my shinohara items and i don’t know how the current production quality compares to the older stuff like i have.
all the switches on my layout (over 100) are hand thrown, although i did use some home made, slow motion motors on the previous layout. it seems to me that any “snap” style throw devices are the kiss of death and will eventually destroy just about any switch in time so i quit using them years ago.
i use a lot of peco switches but no double slips. peco’s often require a thin shim on the guard rail to keep wheels from picking the point of the frog and i assume all their code 100 products are the same.
as for handlaying, i am somewhat of a lone wolf with an ambitious layout and while some modelers enjoy handlaying track, i regard it as being like cutting the lawn with nail clippers. perhaps if i were building a smaller layout or working in a larger scale, it would be a skill worth learning but i sure as hell wouldn’t start out with a double slip switch. once code 100 track is painted and ballasted, it looks just
Well sounds like good news. Yeah premade double slips can be pricey but since I have handlaid exactly zero track I don’t think a double slip is a good 1st project.
This is going to be on an industrial siding so slow speed switching over it is the name of the game.
I just thought of something that may be important, how DCC friendly are these? Is there anything special I need to do as far as wiring and joining it to other tracks? I know I need to keep my track power in phase and re-reviewing the track plan doesn’t show any sign that this will be involved in a reverse loop.
RR, I was suggesting that you look on ‘that’ auction site for available hand-laid ones. They are often for sale, or you may find other types for sale and contact the seller to see if he/she would make you the DS you need. It’s a thought…there are several members here who are using all/most of their turnouts that were acquired off that site, and I hear the quality is generally pretty darned good.
As for DCC-friendly, it should be advertised as such if it really is. I would expect that you might need a couple of DPST switches to reverse polarities, but I honestly don’t know much about DC turnouts of the DS type. I have a three way and a hand-laid DS on my layout, and I acquired a Shinohara #6 DS in case my hand-laid one didn’t pan out.
It will take some learning, and maybe some painting near frogs to keep metal tires from bridging over to adjacent rail surfaces that are not of the correct polarity.
Hi all: I have a Peco Double Slip and I have no trouble with running DCC locos through it. I only have diesel locos, both PA’s with 6 weel trucks and small Switchers, a couple with only 4 wheels total. NO Problems, no stalling or shorting.
One of my main lines go through it, so it at normal speed, don’t have to slow down to go through.
Is there any kind of wiring diagram for installing a double slip and correcting polarity? Should I use an autoreverser? Let the points power the rails or vice versa (not my favorite solution)?
A Peco code 100 Insulfrog double slip turnout diverges at 12 degrees, exactly the same as their regular code 100 turnouts. We have two of them on our HO scale club layout and have never had an electrical short problem with them. We run every conceivable type of locomotive through them and have never had a problem with either DC or DCC.
in answer to your question about wiring, i have a shinohara code 100 dss operating on straight dc (common rail block system). just feed power to the extreme outer rails on one end of the switch and the points will route the current properly.
the frogs are already gapped so you will need feeders beyond them for the adjacent blocks. i treat the dss as a seperate block by itself and have a rotary switch to assign the proper cab to it.
i am not good at explaining this but i used a multi-meter when i first got one of these switches to figure out what was going on. if you don’t have one, pick up a cheapie at wally world or radio shack. it is almost indispensable when working on model railroad electrical things. or at least get a 12 volt bulb and socket with pigtails from your local auto parts store.
using the points to route the power through the dss has caused me no problems. just keep the rails clean where they make contact and make sure there is a little tension holding the points closed. i use caboose industries ground throws.
i see no need for an autoreverser.
all my diesels are 8 wheel pickup and all my steam power has at least 8 drivers. i have had no stalling problems.
Griz, I’ll give that a shot. I have a DMM so if there is a problem I should be able to find it. Just want to prevent one during installation rather than go back in.
So using the points seems like a reliable way to transfer power, good. I have 4 axle diesels right now and all wheel pickup is a requirement for any loco I get.
Can’t wait for this to come in and actaully start attaching some track to the benchwork.
Doh! The LHS called yesterday to let me know that most of my order is in except for the DSS. It’s on backorder and could be months before they can get it. Guess I’ll try calling around to see if anyone has one in stock. I hope Ihope Ihope…