So i’m getting ready to order the flextrack for my layout. I’m doing code 70, and already have some of the Shinohara turnouts I need. My question, now, is whether I need to continue using Shinohara flextrack. I’ve been searching through old threads, and found a lot of people talking about tie height. One person even mentioned that Atlas code 83 wont match up with Walthers code 83 because of tie height. Is this an issue with Shinohara and Micro Engineering track?
Micro Engineering is cheaper (27.68 for 6 3-foot sections) than Shinohara (7.05 for each 39 inch section) but Shinohara does have the 3 extra inches per section, and the minimum number you can order is 5. This is all from www.internettrains.com which i have found to have pretty much the best prices on anything, and are pretty good with having stuff in stock.
So, this being said, am I ok if i go with Micro Engineering’s code 70 flextrack? I’m only working on a 4x8 right now that will be expanded, so the extra 3 inches for Shinohara isn’t really worth it unless it will save me the headache of getting the different company’s track to align properly.
This also brings in another issue i just thought of… regarding rail joiners. ME offers code 70 rail joiners. Will these be ok with Shinohara code 70 rail? I’m assuming so, since the rail size is the same, but the last time I assumed something I started buying my code 70 track without realizing that anything made from IHC or older Rivarossi won’t run on code 70 track without having their flanges shortened, which really isn’t worth the effort for $25 dollar engines when I can just spend a little more for a good, reliable Athearn or Atlas.
The question in my mind would be how well the ties and other details matched up between the turnouts and the chosen flex track. If they match up fine between the Shinohara turnouts and the ME flex, you are good to go. If not, the Shinohara flex might be your best bet.
To me, minimizing the obviousness of the joint between the flex track and the turnout is more important than how well the two mate at the rail joiner. The latter can always be adjusted with sanding or shimming ties, and crimping/spreading of the rail joiner. One of my reasons for handlaying track and turnouts on the layout is to get flowing track, and not the obvious joint between a turnout and flex track that I see in so many pictures. But that’s me and my criteria; yours may differ.
yeah i plan on doing that tomarrow. its funny… because you’d think in a state’s capital, especially New York state, you’d be able to find stuff like this. I have at least a 45-minute drive to the nearest ones that MIGHT have it (gonna call first).
Have any of you guys bought shinohara or me flex online from places? I’ve also found caboosehobbies.com to have a good selection of products, even though they’re a hair more expensive.
I’m building my layout using Shinohara Code 70 Switches mixed with Micro Engineering Code 70 Flex. The tie detail, rail profile and tie height is compatible between those two types. The only issue is that the Shinohara tie plastic is a darker brown than the ME. Since I’m planning on weathering the rail and ties that already minor mismatch in color will be covered over.
Now Atlas’ Code 83 Ties are “beefier” looking, more noticably different. Since I plan on using it for the main only - which in the real world would be maintained differently - that is also not a significant issue.
Here is a comparison photo of Atlas and Micro Engineering flex track. The Atlas is in the foreground. Both pieces of track have been painted with a rust/grimy black/railroad tie brown mix. Notice the difference in the size of the spikes holding the rails.
yeah wow. Did you use an airbrush for that? I was going to buy the weathered ME flex, but some people have mentioned using Krylon spray paint to weather their track with good results, so I’m gonna just buy the unweathered.
i’m really glad to hear that the ME and shinohara brands are compatible. This saves a lot of hassle. I’d love to go with Shinohara, but their flextrack is more expensive, and I don’t have the money to spend up to $3 more for 3 more inches of track.
How easily is the ME flex to work with? I understand that its somewhat difficult to curve; what methods do you use to curve it? Do you precurve it, or curve it as you go along after the roadbed is already in place? And once its curved, is it a pain to bend back?
I, also, am using Shinohara Code 70 turnouts and MicroEngineering flex track. Tie height is not a problem, and I have used two different brands of rail joiners interchangeably without problem. The color difference pretty much washes our or is barely noticeable once the ballast is in.
ME flex track bends very easily and can be straightened back effectively by holding it against a straight edge such as the layout surface itself. My batch of ME flex track has quite a bit of plastic flash on the bottom of the ties, and I have to scrape that off with an x-acto on every piece. Also, be advised that the ME flex track is really designed to be glued into place. There are some spike holes partially formed from the bottom, and if you are intending on spiking the track in place one has to pierce those holes from the bottom to know where they are before installlation of the track. I spike mine, so punching the holes with a spike from the bottom has just become part of the tracklaying routine now. The sequence is usually: Scrape flash, bend to fit the curve, cut any extending rail ends & file, puncture the spike holes from the bottom, then install.
I curve mine by hand, then guard against tight spots by checking it with a “Ribbonrail” Track Alignment Gage, which I have in several radii. The inner rail on the curve usually has to be cut back. Be sure to dress the cut end with a file to ease application of the rail joiners and insure a smooth joint at the railhead.
I did use an airbrush for painting the rails. Trust me, flexing the pre-weathered track is much more difficult than the non-weathered track. I usually start in the middle of the piece of flex, and start curving it working out to the end. Once the initial bend is made, it is easier to work with in regards to changing or fine tuning the curve.
