If you already have a big compressor that you are willing to use, make sure you place at least one good water trap, filter, and regulator in the system, two sets would be even better, one right at the compressor, and one at your workplace. Keep in mind that anything that goes through that compressor or hose also goes through your airbrush unless you have filtered it out of the compressed air first.
There are a few variables that you should consider when looking at an airbrush setup.
First, what kind of work do you want to do with it? Will you be painting small detail work, or big backgrounds, and will you be spraying with your paint surface up at a normal working angle, or will you have to be painting things that are at severe angles, either up or down, what kind of paint do you need or want to use, etc. All these things are important to know.
For airbrushes, they come in a variety of types and capabilities, and keep in mind that there is no perfect brush for everything, anyone who tells you there is, is either lying or ignorant. I have been airbrushing since 1973, and I teach it on a regular basis, and I have heard it a number of times, “This is the best brush for any airbrushing.”
Airbrushes are typically single or double action, siphon/suction feed, or gravity feed, and internal or external mix
Single action brushes mean that the trigger or button on the brush typically control only the release of the air, with the paint volume being controlled by an adjustment knob at the back end of the brush. For those with limited mobility, or limited mechanical movement in their hands, this may be the better otpion. By pushing the trigger or button down, you release the air, and because the paint volume is already set, you release the paint at the same time. While this may be better for some, it has it’s limitations too. Because you can’t casually change the rate of flow of paint going through your brush, you give up the controll over easy changes in the amount of