I’ve asked before about the Bachmann “Keystone” set, and whether or not i should have bought it. one of the replies was to look into possibly buying everything seperate (thanks to whoever that was, your name just slips my mind at the moment)
After pricing things (MSRP from mfgr sites), it looks like i would ba able to save some money going that route…(depending on what i buy of course [;)]).
So anyway, here’s what i was thinking of getting:
Atlas Code 83 track (and rail joiners) - 22" curves and enough straight to make a (roughly) 4’x8’ oval. – about $35
B’Mann Spectrum K4 Pacific – $155
a few (no more than 10) Athearn (kit) 40’ PRR boxcars – $7.50 ea
MRC Tech4 220 – $70
granted i won’t get this anytime soon (need space first heh), but do you guys think its a good start? is there anything i’ve missed (other than wiring/soldering iron/etc, i have that at home already)? is there a better choice for a loco or cars?
and fior anyone who is gonna recommend changes in things - i want a steam loco, and want to keep this no more than 300-350 (so DCC is out for the moment)
If the Atlas track you are looking at is not the “true track” with the built in plastic roadbed, then you will need some sort of roadbed, either cork or the adhesive roll type. I think that you should consider a track plan that is more than an oval since I think that you will get bored quickly just running a train in circles. Since you are not planning to do this right away, see if you can find any plans that interest you with a few sidings.
Well, as a Pennsy fan I have to ask if you realize that the K4 was a passenger loco. Common Pennsy freight locos were H8, 9 or 10 (2-8-0), M1 (4-8-2) or L1 (2-8-2). If you go that route, be careful to make sure it will work on 22" curves.
I’m not in HO anymore, so I’m going to be limited help as to who makes those in a price range that will fit in your target. Broadway Limited makes a few M1’s, but they are about $220 at Trainworld. I see that Broadway Limited has a few J1’s (2-10-4) on their website without sound at $168. They state that 22" radius is the minimum, although I’m not sure how it would look going around its minimum curve since it was a substantial locomotive. I would imagine those are refurbished units, but I wouldn’t have a problem buying a refurb from them and others out here have.
Other than the passenger/freight locomotive dilemma, I think you are heading in the right direction. You might consider a few Pennsy hoppers in the mix of freight cars, since they owned about a million of them!
Hi. I agree with Adelie. However, if the K4 really appeals to you, by all means get it, and enjoy making it do as you please. You can always correct your “error” at a later date when you get some passenger cars and a second loco, such as the J1. I recently purchasd a J1 from BLI’s Oultet Direct at a substantial savings over MSRP, and it looks to be unused. It is fully warranted. It will actually negotiate well-laid 22"curves. It does look a bit silly on them, but so what? It is yet another “error” you can correct later.
If you can stand a different loco, the Bachmann Spectrum Consolidation 2-8-0 gets very good reviews, and is arguably the best of the Spectrum line in steamers. It was mostly used to haul freight.
didn’t think of the protytipicalness of a k4 with a freight train (actually didn’t know)… perhaps i will look into those other locos… (but i WILL be getting a passenger train at some point).
as for the layout’s appearance (just the oval) i’m probably going to switch out a pair of straight sections for sidings and such… however, if i could find a decent layout plan that’s NOT like $200, have 22" (or larger) curves - i don’t want anything to look bad/run unreliably, and will fit on a 4x8, then i’ll be happy - but all i have found are like $250+ (probably not looking in the right places). i wouldn’t expect the x-8-x locos to run on anything smaller then a 22" radius - tell me if i’m mistaken.
Interesting thread, as I’ve asked myself this very question just a few days ago!
I’ve decided to go with a set first, then get separate items to expand the set. Most sets just have an oval, cheap power supply, and some ugly accessories, but those can be canned for the quick “out of the box and rolling trainset”.
I went with KATO’s 106-0011 set and will be buying an MRC power supply this weekend. Then, I’m off to build my new layout, once I figure it out.
I guess it comes down to preference and cost. If you can get what you want in parts and save money, go for it.
[:D]
I have to advise against the Bachman K4. it is cheaply made and doesn;t pull very well. I think you would do better to start with a diesel switch engine from the era like a Stewart Baldwin that fits the era and can be had for about half that price. It will be a smooth runner that will give you years of trouble free service. also consider the Proto Alco S-1 as people really like them also. Leave the steam for when you have a little experience under your belt. If you want to go Pennsy (smart man!) consider buying a Bowser N5c or N5B caboose for about ten dollars that is pure PRR for the tail end. I would not consider a set if you want to stay pure PRR. By the way in spite of the K4 being a passenger engine there are numerous pictures of them pulling produce trains in the Delmarva area and also one that was used for commuter service switching freight cars in the Pittsburgh area when not pulling passengers.
not to be rude or anything, but i don’t want any deisels right now.period. I’ve had too many of them in the past (actually, save for one 4-8-2 (N scale), I’ve only had deisel). Also, i’ve had model RR’s in the past. nothing more than a loop of track and some cars/locos. but it worked for me… not too expensive (christmas/b-day presents mostly) and i could at least run trains. this brings me to a second point - you assumed that i have no experience whatsoever. Just back from a long hiatus imposed by school [;)]
You might want to look at Atlas True Track that already has the roadbed attached. It is actually code 83 snap track that is snapped into a plastic roadbed. When you decide to expand your layout, and if you want to use cork or foam roadbed, just separate it from the plastic roadbed and you’re good to go.
Another thing that I like about true track is the thickness of the roadbed. It is extremely close in thickness of cork roadbed. There is about 1/64" difference or less. Shimming it would be easy to get it to align with regular cork or foam roadbed if you just wanted to keep it when you expand your layout.
I just purchased some online from Traintrack.net. They have 24" or 22" curve track that comes in a 4pack for $4.75. The 9” straight track comes in a 4pack for $4.75. For an oval that fits on a 4 x 8 it would cost about $38.00.
If you go to the Atlas website and click on “Layouts” then “True Track” it will show you several layouts you can make with the true track. It even gives you the MSRP price of each layout.
You also may want to check out Trainsetsonly.com they sell the Atlas True Track layouts. They come with everything you need, track, rail joiners with wire, switches, insulated rail joiners, remote turnouts, all in a package deal at a reasonable price much less than the MSRP.
It looks like I’m pushing Atlas True track but I think for someone like myself that wants to get some trains going now and wants to build an expanded railroad in the near future it’s a good choice.
Are you limited to a 4x8 layout? If you could go a little bigger, you’ll get get nicer curves.Also, get a few bowser round roof boxcars,they’re a pennsy car, also check out accurail or branchline yardmaster boxcars, better looking than athearns with those large door claws.Shop around they should be price comparitively.
I would add a couple of structures and a couple of turnouts so you can do some switching.
Also, I would get a variety of freight cars - 10 PRR boxcars when that is all you have is a little boring.
Enjoy
Paul
Those are some good ideas Bill54… not sure about the TT though… the snaptrack is pretty cheap on its own… it really depends on which method is cheaper [:)]. I looked at some of the atlas plans, and they’re a bit out of my price range… i only have like $350 tops, and the plans all seem to be about $200. that would leave me with only about $150 for everything else… Not to mention the plans all seem to have 18" Radius curves…
BXCARMIKE - don’t know completely about the space i’m gonna get… but iassume 4x8 is going to be the max size. if i can get lucky, maybe a little bit bigger… but this is going in my parents house, and it would have to share the basement with my siblings’ stuff… school is such a treat… i can’t wait till i can afford to have my own house [;)]
what size did you have in mind?
As for the cars, i just found those first, so thats what i added to the list of stuff i was going to buy at the beginning with more after a month (or two or three) when i’d have more money to work with.
would a K4 be able to negotiate the 18" curves of the Atlas trackplans? or am I going to need smaller power to negotiate these curves?
and thanks to you guys for helping me figure this out [:D]
You’ll seldom get a top quality locomotive with a set. If you’re starting out, you should begin with a top quality locomotive. I started by buying a set and, upon reflection, it didn’t benefit me at all. I wish I’d purchased everything piecemeal.
The only ready to run small steamer I know of that is PRR prototype and any good is the Lifelike USRA 0-6-0 class B28s on the PRR. They were pretty rare though. That being said you can build a Bowser kit of a 2-6-0, 0-4-0, 0-6-0. 2-8-0, 4-6-2, 4-8-2, or a 4-4-4-4 (classes G5s, AQ5s, B6SB, H10, K4s, M1s, and T1 respectively). Since you need the space first some quality time could be spent building, detailing and tuning one of their kits. The I’ve got to have it and on the rails today people scoff at building something but when you need to move the layout just hook up a couple and they will pull it anywhere you want. A much better invetsment than the Bachman K4 at about the same cost.
i’m going to need to get files and taps to build the kit, correct? I already have small screwdrivers, so that shouldnt be a problem area (range in size from 000-1 phillips, and 1.5-4 for slotted). would i need to solder anything on these kits - the dorm rules would not allow one of those, and i wouldn’t want a half finished kit sitting around because of needing solder… lol
My “empire” started out with a Bachmann Overland Limited. Cheaply made rolling stock and locomotive, but with some detailing and weathering, replacing the couplers with Kadees, I’ve got a nice set. Although to get any appreciable amount of smoke out of the loco, you have to run it at a scale 200 mph (LOL). Of course, the rolling stock doesn’t quite match (wooden livestock car with a 1940s style tanker, a modern closed hopper, and a flat car with logs that look more like Slim Jims than trees). But, it was a train and that was enough to get the creative juices flowing and expand my layout. What started out as a 65" x 38’ loop has turned into a 12’x54’ creation. I’m having fun, and that’s what model railroading is all about. Get what you can afford, and as money and time permits go from there… HAPPY RAILROADING!!
thats just the problem… i can effectively spend $350 (give or take)… and as such i have two routes - the Bachmann PRR Keystone set, or getting everything seperately…
looking at some of the links Bill54 posted, i can apparently get an atlas trackplan for WAY less than what atlas wants, and then i could go from there with a MRC Tech4, a loco and some cars…
right now it looks like the trackplan and the loco are going to set me back the most…
You shouldn’t need to solder much of anything on a Bowser. Maybe the wire from the motor. but as I recall it has a lug and a bolt and nut to attach it to the frame. Now if you decide to add lights, sound and DCC yes you will need to do some soldering. Go to their web site as I beleive in addition to model and prototype phots they have exploded views of the engines and detail kits.