Simple Diesels

[xboxtravis7992]

Although mentioning he’s aiming for the transition era doesn’t completely disavow all modern brands… Athearn and Intermountain have a few GP and F units that would fit that era nicely, and Rapido has their own fair share of transition stuff to.

But I can understand the frustration of grab irons breaking off… I had that happen to me trying to use a 0-5-0 to rerail a derailed tank car at an operation session I was at, and then having to go through ‘reporting the car damage’ to the railroads owner. Or that time my cousin’s sent my Athearn SW1500 on a trip from table top to the floor and I had to re-glue a piece that fell of it due to that encounter with gravity. If durabiltiy is the primary goal then those simpler older locomotives probably have a lot of points ahead of the finer detailed units of now.

[mbinsewi]

Athearn and Intermountain have a few GP and F units that would fit that era nicely, and Rapido has their own fair share of transition stuff to.

Yes they do! All nice stuff.

Mike.

[Autonerd]

I see no reason not to be out there buying the modern stuff from Athearn, ScaleTrains, Bowser, Walthers, Rapido, etc.

People get pretty ham-fisted at our club layout, and the newer, more detailed locomotives get broken easily. I’m afraid to leave my Bowsers and my (one) Athearn Genesis on the layout. Older locomotives like Athearn BB, Proto 1k and Walthers Mainline are perfect for our club – they are durable, the mechanisms are strong and bulletproof, and there’s little to get broken if someone lifts a unit off the rails a little too quickly.

I think the OP’s time frame and need for metal 'rails narrows his choices, but the old stuff still has a place.

[Doughless]

Diesels made by ATLAS TRAINMAN and WALTHERS TRAINLINE have simple details, few pilot details, and robust handrails. They typically run better than most Bachmann diesels.

I know Atlas makes an RS36 that’s a nice loco. Their Trainman series requires the owner to buy the proper grab irons and install them on their own, but the model has drilling dimples as guides.

Also ATLAS CLASSIC SILVER makes a nice ALCO RS-11 that has separately applied metal grabirons but handrails that are on the thick side, as well as few pilot details. Same goes for the ALCO RS-1 and RS-3

If it was me, I’d buy one from the 2001 to 2012 vintages when they still had the Kato cloned motors. They pop up on ebay frequently.

All come with coupler boxes that can accomodate Kadees or NMRA Horn Hooks easily.

[rrebell]

Maybe I’m the odd one out here, but I don’t know why you would want to aim to purchase models that look like they were made 20 years ago. Unless its a cost saving measure, I see no reason not to be out there buying the modern stuff from Athearn, ScaleTrains, Bowser, Walthers, Rapido, etc. Even then, the convenience of being able to order directly online from a modern manufacturer seems like it would save the hassle of chasing down dozens of retired engines in random train shows. One online order from MB Klein, Walthers, or TrainLife could get me an entire fleet of modern models from any swath of railroad history I want, if I really bit the bullet to buy them all in one fell swoop. To get a fleet of old retired engines might save cash, but that would be a long process of eBay, swapmeets and train shows I don’t really see as worthwhile.

Just my two cents though. I’m curious to hear more of your reasoning for wanting older style engines.

can’t be cost saving, he owns a Sukura

[Oregon_Steamer]

xboxtravis7992

Maybe I’m the odd one out here, but I don’t know why you would want to aim to purchase models that look like they were made 20 years ago. Unless its a cost saving measure, I see no reason not to be out there buying the modern stuff from Athearn, ScaleTrains, Bowser, Walthers, Rapido, etc. Even then, the convenience of being able to order directly online from a modern manufacturer seems like it would save the hassle of chasing down dozens of retired engines in random train shows. One online order from MB Klein, Walthers, or TrainLife could get me an entire fleet of modern models from any swath of railroad history I want, if I really bit the bullet to buy them all in one fell swoop. To get a fleet of old retired engines might save cash, but that would be a long process of eBay, swapmeets and train shows I don’t really see as worthwhile.

Just my two cents though. I’m curious to hear more of your reasoning for wanting older style engines.

can’t be cost saving, he owns a Sukura

You got that right.

It’s not cost It’s durability and compatability.

[Eilif]

I’d second the suggestion of Athearn Blue Box. They’re easy to find, easy to service, sturdy, etc. I like that I can hand them to my kids and not worry that something is going to be broken off.

I’ve got quite a few that meet your criteria and I’m quite happy with them. Finding ones that have been assembled (often with added grabs and such) is easy and it’s not too hard to find like-new unassembled versions. My local trainshop “Zientek” has quite a few NOS unbuilt BB locos.

[Oregon_Steamer]

Here are the two Mikados I own.

To me Mantua had reasonable detail on their final generation Mikados and Pacifics.

Alls I am looking for is a brand of Diesels from the Steam or Transition era that are about the same level of detail as the two locos in the photo.

[Oregon_Steamer]

I’d second the suggestion of Athearn Blue Box. They’re easy to find, easy to service, sturdy, etc. I like that I can hand them to my kids and not worry that something is going to be broken off.

I’ve got quite a few that meet your criteria and I’m quite happy with them. Finding ones that have been assembled (often with added grabs and such) is easy and it’s not too hard to find like-new unassembled versions. My local trainshop “Zientek” has quite a few NOS unbuilt BB locos.

I do own 3 of Bluebox-era Athearn Diesels.

I can’t say I am in love with them because of how their couplers are mounted.

[mbinsewi]

I can’t say I am in love with them because of how their couplers are mounted.

You mean with the plastic snap on box? There are lots of options, all involving Kadee couplers.

A search of Kadee’s site will show you what you can do.

I think we’ve all given you many options for locomotives, I guess it’s up to you.

I don’t know what Athearn diesels you have, but if they have have some performance issues, besides the couplers, that also is an easy fix.

Mike.

[dti406]

Here are the two Mikados I own.

To me Mantua had reasonable detail on their final generation Mikados and Pacifics.

Alls I am looking for is a brand of Diesels from the Steam or Transition era that are about the same level of detail as the two locos in the photo.

Based on your steamers I would suggest a Hobbytown of Boston RS-3.

All metal body, metal stantions and hand rails, minimal detailing, but will pull a ton.

https://hobbytownofboston.com/?page_id=61

Rick Jesionowski

[Oregon_Steamer]

Oregon_Steamer
I can’t say I am in love with them because of how their couplers are mounted.

You mean with the plastic snap on box? There are lots of options, all involving Kadee couplers.

A search of Kadee’s site will show you what you can do.

I think we’ve all given you many options for locomotives, I guess it’s up to you.

I don’t know what Athearn diesels you have, but if they have have some performance issues, besides the couplers, that also is an easy fix.

Mike.

As I stated before I am using Sergent Engineering Couplers, However I am using Kadee’s 242 Gear Box and surprisingly the couplers fit like a charm.

[mbinsewi]

OK, Now I understand what you said in an earlier post:

Because I can’t use Sergent couplers on my bachmann. Also Those are the models from a few years ago.

I misunderstood that earlier. My bad.

I like the 242 box, pretty much what I use for any conversion.

May I ask, how did you fasten these to your blue box diesels?

Mike.

[Oregon_Steamer]

OK, Now I understand what you said in an earlier post:

Oregon_Steamer
Because I can’t use Sergent couplers on my bachmann. Also Those are the models from a few years ago.

I misunderstood that earlier. My bad.

I like the 242 box, pretty much what I use for any conversion.

May I ask, how did you fasten these to your blue box diesels?

Mike.

I havent yet they still have those snap on boxes they came with.

[mbinsewi]

OK, well, some people have figured out ways to mount the box to the shell, and they cut off the little casting that the plastic box snaps onto.

The problem with using the little casting, which is part of the frame, Athearn’s electrical path goes through the frame, and with metal couplers, say like Kadee’s, that could cause a potential shorting problem, especially if you couple 2 Athearns together, back to back, unless you insulate the couple from making contact with the frame.

I don’t know much about Sargent couplers, if they are metal or not, but just passing this on FYI.

Mike.

[Oregon_Steamer]

OK, well, some people have figured out ways to mount the box to the shell, and they cut off the little casting that the plastic box snaps onto.

The problem with using the little casting, which is part of the frame, Athearn’s electrical path goes through the frame, and with metal couplers, say like Kadee’s, that could cause a potential shorting problem, especially if you couple 2 Athearns together, back to back, unless you insulate the couple from making contact with the frame.

I don’t know much about Sargent couplers, if they are metal or not, but just passing this on FYI.

Mike.

They are metal.