Here are some simple ways to get HO engines running better.
Bachmann Spectrum F40PH (new):
PROBLEM, Athearn style drive shafts are too tight on the ball couplings.
SOLUTION, take the sideways U shaped couplings out and bend them outward slightly to loosen the up. (don’t over-do it, shafts will fall off and need to be bent back in)
IHC 2-6-0 Mogul:
PROBLEM, drive wheels don’t turn freely
SOLUTION, bend the driver electrical pickups inward enough that they will still contact the drivers but not press too hard
Bachmann DD40X (old):
PROBLEM, rear wheel drive truck doesn’t have much power
SOLUTION, switch the trucks around so that it’s front wheel drive, put the weight in the front of the engine instead of the back and add extra weight to the front and a little to the back
Athearn Genesis SD70 series:
PROBLEM, not all the axles in the trucks touch the track, making it derail easily
SOLUTION, take sideframes and pickups out and bend the pickups so that they are straight. Athearn bends them out of shape at the factory for some
reason
Got any other simple fixes for HO engines? Then post them here.[:D][:D][:D]
Excellent info Darth, definately something I’ll keep my eyes on. Thanks for posting, a great idea. (especially for people like me who dont know diddly about what they are running [:D] )
Life-Like P2K SD60:
PROBLEM, high current draw because worm bearings are too tight in their slots
SOLUTION, file one of the four sides of each bearing then put them back in with the filed side facing the side if the truck, not up or down
Bachmann Spectrum 8-40C or CW (old):
PROBLEM, not as detailed as it could be
SOLUTION, replace the windshield and windows, paint grab irons, change snowplow, add MU cables, add windshield wipers, give Kadee or McHenry raised head couplers.
I did that with mine, and it now looks like anti-crud.[:D][:D] But throwing it against the nearest wall is a waste, because you’ll have a broken engine that you could have sold and a dented wall.
Why is it we get mad at how Bachmann didn’t make their DASH 8s look exactly right, but we don’t get mad at P1K diesels for using a single body shell for all the railraods it’s painted in?[%-)]
Darth says:Athearn Genesis SD70 series:
PROBLEM, not all the axles in the trucks touch the track, making it derail easily
SOLUTION, take sideframes and pickups out and bend the pickups so that they are straight. Athearn bends them out of shape at the factory for some
reason
Who up there Darth…NOT ALL SD70s suffered from that problem…Neither one of my NS Spartan cab SD70s units had that problem…Athearn DOES NOT bend them out of shape…Comment like yours is misleading to say the very least .Best to say some of the SD70s suffered from warp side frames.[:D]
This isn’t about engines but Athearn blue box cars (which I happen to like the best!). Alway check to make sure the weight is perfectly flat before installing. Apparently these are sheared which causes a twist in the longer ones. Since the weight goes between the frame and the car bottom it can distort the frame and cause the coupler to hang lower than it should. This is a particular problem on 86’ high cube box cars and causes the swing mechanism to hang up as well as be low. Finger pressure on top of the weigt on a flat surface is usually sufficient to fix the problem.
Hmmm…maybe that was something that they did on the older ones then fixed later. I’ve heard a few comments from other members on other topics about the same problem that mine had. Some said that they made the holes for the middle axles bigger so the middle axles would touch the track.
Athearn 3 piece universals (not the new hex universals):
PROBLEM, middle piece is loose in the sockets causing tons of vibration and noise
SOLUTION, take a 1/2 inch square of Kleenex and put one over each socket, then press the middle piece in carefully to avoid ripping the Kleenex
That one made my Athearn DASH 9 work much quieter and got rid of most of the vibration.[:)]
This is often caused by excess slack at the end of the worm gear. You can solve this by getting a thin teflon washer to shim it. If teflon is not available, get a brass washer. I’d also suggest gluing in place the motor-end of the driveline going to each truck. Use silicone caluk to do it. This will help to remove some of the extra slop in the system. Silicone will also allow you to pull it apart if you really have to.
Any locomotive - poor traction
Fill the locomotive with lead. Diesels are easy, the shell almost always has some extra space along the top where you can add a strip of lead. You can forge the lead into shape by gently pounding it with a hammer or squeezing it with a large pair of pliers. Glue it in place, and be sure to wash your hands when done. I’ve added up to 12 ounces to an AC4400, and 8 ounces to a GP-60.
If you want to pour the weight in place you can use either very small shotgun shot (larfer number the smaller) or powdered tungsten. Shotgun shot is about $15 for a 10 pound bag. Powdered tungsten is heavier than lead, but costs $10-15 per pound.
Lead is dangerous if you eat it, but otherwise safe.
Athearn BB locomotives - Poor pickup / response, especially when curving a certain direction.
The problem is the floating pickup that spans between the top of the motor and the trucks. You can solve this by soldering a very fine wire between the motor pickup and the trucks. Commonly called “hotwiring” the Athearn. Other locomotives may have the same problem. I’d also suggest using a white ink pen eraser (one of the harder ones) to “erase” the armature, which will polish it and improve the electrical pickup.
You can also oil the engine with some light oil. Use a toothpick and apply VERY LITTLE to where the shaft leaves the motor. If ANY oil gets on the armature you’re in BIG trouble.
Installing DCC in a diesel like that should be very simple. (if you have some wire and soldering skills)
Step 1: Clip the spring contacts off the motor, leaving just enough to solder wires to.
Step 2: Put electrical tape or masking tape in the parts of the frame that may be contacted by something.
Step 3: Solder 2 wires onto the motor.
Step 4: Disconnect the lights from the stock diode board.
Step 5: Solder wires to the rear light bulb.
Step 6: Connect the light and motor wires to the proper spots on the decoder.
Step 7: Connect wires to each half of the frame by using a conductive tape or by drilling holes and putting screws in. (solder won’t stick to the metal used for the frame)
Step 8: Connect the frame wires to the parts of the decoder that pickup electricity from the track.
OR
Step 7: Insulate the trucks from the frame.
Step 8: Solder wires to the trucks.
Step 9: Connect the truck wires to the decoder.
It sounds like alot of work, but it really isn’t that much.[:D]
Yes, those are the lyrics.I used to enjoy listening to the Doctor Demento radio show,I think I have the Weird Al Yankovic tape somewhere.I like to listen to that sort of music while I am assembling kits.
Isn’t that sand UP?
Dr. Demento. Listened to him '71-'73. Graduated, moved, heard occasionaly. Always enjoyed. Explained to wife who is ten years younger. Response is one of those ‘I’ll smile to humor him’ types. One of those ‘You had to be there’ experiences. It was great radio.