Hello structure scratchbuilders. I’m working from prototype maps & photographs on a 1930-40s Jersey Central steam locomotive facility. There were two crew shantys there that appear to have been built out of old wood sheathed boxcars. I found a really good ground level photo that shows the roofs no longer have cat walks and are covered with what appears to be very heavy tar paper. It’s wrapped over the edges of the roof and from that and the radius of the bend where its wrapped, you can see an impression of how thick it is.
Does anyone have any suggestions for simulating extra heavy tarpaper roof material? I have always just used regular white copy paper painted grimy black, but that would look too thin to match this prototype.
Thanks, Ed
I have used black construction paper for tar paper roofs, and the results have been good.
For the shanty in my junk yard, I used balck construction paper, and I tried to make it look weathered.
I’ve used masking tape painted black. According to the 'Net it’s about 50% thicker than copy paper. It would also be easy to wrap around the edge, though I didn’t know that was how it was used.
I was going to suggest the same thing, BigDaddy go there first. A dark grey base base coat weathered with lighter grey dry brushed on, with maybe a but of roof brown for rust, could be used for colors
That looks about right although thicker would better match my prototype
Excellent. Hadn’t thought of masking tape. Thanks!
I keep several widths of black masking tape on hand. It doesn’t hurt to lightly spray some tacky adhesive on your substrate to insure a good bond. Some brands of masking tape stick better than others.
Black tape helps to insure better color coverage and eliminates a painting step although a coat of Dullcote and some chalk weathering sure helps.
Good Luck, Ed
Add me to the list of masking tape users. I prefer the yellow masking tape made by Tamiya. It seems to have a bit more body to it, and it is available in several widths.
-Kevin
Tissue paper imbeded in paint [your choice of color]. You can work it smooth or add a ripple or two. Add layers to build up.
A brown paper grocery bag panted black will also work,along with very fine wet/dry sand paper. I have used them all depending on the effect I;m after.
As stated above; don’t trust the masking tape to remain stuck, I have had some peel off over time
Hello All,
All great inexpensive solutions!
I recently “discovered” black masking tape while watching a YouTube video about building and weathering brick structures.
A few, possibly more expensive, solutions are…
Black Gaffers Tape. This is a cloth tape used in the entertainment field. We used to use this stuff by the case!
It can be found online in several widths, but it ain’t cheap compared to other materials.
Others have used strips of wet/dry sandpaper. This has a slight sheen to it but if you are weathering the roof this should take care of it. The fine grit also gives weathering materials something to “bite” into.
Another inexpensive option that I have heard of is strips of paper towel glued in place and then painted.
Hope this helps.
For simulating tarpaper roofs, I use .005" sheet styrene, which scales-out to just under a half-inch thick…
Apologies for the excess of photos, but it was unusual for photobucket to be sorta functioning, so I couldn’t pass-up on the chance to use them.
Wayne
Sure… Use a piece of tarpaper.
Hey Lion, it’s GGGGRRRRRreat to see you back.
Wayne
Hi Wayne,
I have a bit of experience with real tar paper (no granules) and rolled roofing (with granules) and I have never seen anything that is close to 1/2" thick. Having said that, your roofs do look great so I think this is a case of where a bit of exaggeration works well in modelling HO.
I have used strips cut from manila envelopes and I think they resemble prototypical rolled roofing quite well:
Dave
I agree, Dave, that a half-inch is too thick for tarpaper or even roll-roofing. All I wanted was something easy to add, and permanent. The roofs on those section-car sheds are .060" styrene, so the thinner stuff is unlikely to ever peel off.
I suppose that I could have used .001" brass shimstock, which would’ve been closer to scale, but more of a pain to stick it in-place.
Wayne