I am experiencing slow places in my track where the train slows down on its own even when just the engine, what could be causing this?
Dirty track dirty wheels and a poor conection between the tracks and also something that could be causing a power draw in that section. rambo1…
and something that is causing sometype of a short.rambo1…
and try another engine. rambo1…
Are the slow spots farthest away from the track feeders? If so, try dropping more feeder wires.
Craig
mc:
It could be a combination of several things–either poor or loose track connectors, dirty rails, or that particular section of track is far enough away from the primary wiring connection to need ‘feeder’ wiring from the power-pack to the rails.
Usually, I try to wire the track so that there is a feeder connection every three to six feet of rail length. this usually ensures that power will be evenly fed to the track even if the rail connectors become loose. Another partial solution is to make sure that your rail connectors are soldered together from one section of track to another. However, over time, even these joints might become loose from usage, so I always reccommend additional power feeds to each section of track.
Whatever type of rail you’re using, oxidation builds up on the railheads even with frequent running, so the track has to be cleaned. There are several types of track cleaners, both liquid and mildly abrasive to keep the railheads clean, you might want to look into them. There are also several types of track-cleaning cars that can be run over your layout to keep the track clean. What type works best will probably depend on your particular situation and the humidity factor in your railroad room.
I’m sure other posters will have otherand possibly more detailed suggestions, but these are mine, right off the top of my head.
Tom [:D]
How big is your layout? Also how many places does the power pack connect?
When people talk about feeders they’re talking about power connections to the track. If you have 1 then start by adding a second on the other side of the layout. The more places you insert power the better. Make sure the same wire attaches to the outside of the track at all places.
If your loco stops and starts or moves jerkily, I would suspect dirty track. If you have recently completed scenery work in those areas, also suspect dirty track.
If it just slows down when it enters sections, you more likely have a power issue.
Start by cleaning the track (I use a rag dipped in denatured alcohol). If that fixes the problem, it was dirt or oxidation. If not, start looking for a short, loose connection, or power drop (due to too much distance from the bus).
[;)]Also remember to clean the wheels of the loco.
The benchmark method of track wiring is to run 10 or 12 guage “bus” wires from the power pack (or DDC) beneath the track and connect them to the rails with 16 or 20 guage feeder wires. Every section of track needs to either have it own feeder wires or be soldered to one that does. Rail joiners alone are not capable of making reliable electrical connections.
Jim
That’s why the size of his layout matters. A 4x8 layout would be fine with a 16 or 18 gauge buss.
Or…go buy an NMRA gauge and measure the distance (gauge) between the rails. That “gauge” is the distance between the inner sides of the heads of the rails. They could be binding the loco’s wheels or losing electrical contact. With warm weather the rails could expand and be forced in directions they’re not meant to travel (sideways).
It’s dirt or grime on the rails.
One issue that hasn’t been addressed is, what kind of locomotive is it? I had the same problem with a steam locomotive (BLI Santa Fe 4-8-4). The problem was that the radius was a little too tight. The only solution was to remove the track and roadbed and fix it. Once it was fixed, never had that problem again.
Another possibility, is that there is a change in incline. Set a level, lengthwise, on the track. Make sure it’s level. If it’s not, don’t freak out; there is a fix. If the amount needed to level it is less than 1/4", just stick some doorjamb shims under the legs. If it’s more than that, get some levelers that you insert into wooden legs (I forget what they call them). Drill a hole into the end of a 6-8 length of 2x2. Insert the leveler into the end. Raise the offending end of the layout and put a piece of 1/4" plywood under it, so that it’s flush with the inside edge of the leg. Now, glue and screw the leveling assembly that you just made to the inside of the leg, making sure that the wood is flush with one vertical edge and the bottom of the leg. When the glue is set, remove the temporary shim and adjust the leveler until the track is level.