I had to dis-assemble and then re-assemble (that’s another story!) my 11’ x 6’ DCC layout. The 14 gauge bus wires were cut at convenient places. I am now ready to reconnect the wiring - electricity etc is not my forte !!
I went to The Source (Radio Shack) yesterday and they sold me 22-18 snap connectors, which I believe are rated 600v 19A. Rather than take another trip back in to change the connectors will using the 20-18’s for the 14 gauge bus wire (butt joint) cause me problems? I don’t want to solder because I like the idea of a future disconnect if needed.
I have a Digitrax Zephyr and run a max of 3 locos at any one time.
They’ll probably crimp on, but since they are for smaller wire, they will cut into the #14. If you want to use suitcase type connectors you’ll need to get the correct ones.
Disconnecting a soldered connection is IMO faster than undoing a suitcase connector - just get the wire cutters and go to town!
I guess my main enquiry was if the smaller connectors would affect the DCC signal. Would the 20-18’s create any form of electrical resistance in the 14 gauge bus wires? I used 14 gauge as bus wires and then used IDC suitcase connectors to connect the bus to my 20 gauge feeders soldered to the tracks. I wired every piece of track and turnout so after all that work I don’t want to cause a problem due to my own ignorance.
The connectors are the male/female push together type (not suitcase). I can take a trip back to the store but was hoping to do the final connections today. Getting withdrawal syptoms - I have to run a train this evening [:D]
The only issue is they will simply not fit, and if you do force them on they will cut or otherwise damage the 14 gauge bus wires. The space allowed for crimping is designed to allow #20-#18 wire. Smaller than #20, it won’t crimp tight enough. Larger than #18, it will likely cut into the wire.
Do you have a crimping tool to crimp those connectors onto the wire? You’re not going to get a very tight connection crimping them with pliers. The Source has a crimping tool for $11.99 which will do the job–#640 0404. Be sure to get the right one. The others are for crimping F connectors or coax connectors onto coaxial cable.
Why not just get a couple of terminal strips and the 14Ga ring or forked crimp on connectors and that way if you have to disassemble again its just a screw turn instead of a cut?
When I cut the wires the cuts were made between frames under my benchwork. I then cut the benchwork into three main pieces (after much deliberation). Problem is there isn’t enough of the single strand wire each cut end (there’s about ten of them) to reach a terminal strip without moving (jarring) many of the feeders which are attached using suitcase connectors. If I move the bus wires I’ll probably loosen the soldered feeders from the N scale tracks.
The best solution seems to use the male/female connectors I bought.
I had it all up and running before having to move. Actually the best solution was to totally rebuild but I had only just finished laying all the track so hadn’t got the heart to start again. Other solution was not to move. [:)]
Instead of suitcase connectors, I use terminal blocks and crimp-on connectors. You can get crimp on connectors in a bulk pack of 100 from All Electronics for less than you’re going to be paying for 10 suitcase connectors from Radio Shack.
Why not attach the bus wires to a terminal strip at whatever point they reach (even if it’s not right at the edge of the benchwork section) and then wire jumpers between terminal strips across the gap? Or am I not understanding what you said? Even if each terminal strip ends up having th ebe located a foot in from where the benchwork gap is, it won’t matter - a little over 2 feet of some #14 as a jumper will work fine.
Good idea, that would work for some of the wires Randy but there are a few where the suitcase connectors (and therefore some drop down feeders) are within a few inches of the cut ends of the 14 gauge wire (as I mentioned I cut between frames). Cropping the 14 gauge to get back to a frame to use terminals and then using jumpers across frames would mean losing some of the feeders.
Difficult to describe but your suggestion helps. I guess I should have cut the wires near the frames, instead I cut the wires in line with the cuts through the benchwork. Hindsight is a wonderful thing.
So get some suicase connectors for joining #14 to #14 and add in a short jumper piece to reach a logical position for the terminal strip. If you really think you’ll have to take the layout apart, having jumpers between terminal striups with spade connectors will make a nice neat break point that will be easy to reconnect when the layout gets put back together.