Well this is my first day as a member of the forums here and my first post, so a big hello to you all. I have been reading the forums a bit and it is a wonderful to read such helpfull, informative and polite responses; a real change for this ol’ computer hound, or is that Coyote? [;)]
I, like many, have been intrested and inthralled by MR since I was a child, now that I’m old enough to justify being a child again [:D] I am finally taking the plunge and getting ready to start my own MR.
I have 9’x16’ to use. with a nice 9’x3’ built in workbench. Half of our garage, as soon as a clean it. Oh the OL is wise and cunning - “of course you could put it out there dear… IF it was clean, I mean.”
I have been reading and puzzling through a couple of MR books I have and have tentatively decided on the following:
HO Scale Code 83 track (thanks to Grande Man and Simon for this one. Thanks guys) 1945-1960 Timeline Passenger as well as Freight rolling stock (Possibly the Americian Orient express?) ← N.B. Complete Ignorance of Prototype RR on part of the author Ami Instant Roadbed Bar Mills Scale Models and Weathering products (as well as DPM HO Scale Modular Building system) Sievers Modular Benchwork (this was chosen because of some physical limitations that I have that would keep me from just building benchwork) Mod-U-Rail System by woodland Scenics (this product fascinates me even though I have yet to buy my first piece)
So that long winded cuss being said, and apologies for it reading like both a shoppinglist and a brand name endorsement, what advice can any of you Gentlemen and Ladies offer… Pros - Cons? I have a few major decisions still hanging, namely:
DC or DCC Track I am -totaly lost on what would be the best track etc.
Has anyone used Mod-U-Rail from WS yet? I follow tha
Welcome Coyote, looks like you are well on the way!
Here are a few thoughts from me. If you like the Bar Mills type structures take a look at the products from JL Innovative http://www.jlinnovative.com/ they are my personal favorites. Also look at AMB at www.laserkit.com
If it were me, I would plan for DCC from the get go. I can not imagine being on DC anymore, there is no comparison IMO. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/ this link is a great resource.
As for track, well you have many choices. Since you are new, make sure you go for nickel silver track not brass (not sure you can get brass anymore anyway). Given the space you are going to work with, i would consider a flex track solution rather than sectional track. You will have to make a decision about what code of track to use and what your budget is as there is quite a range in price. I think Atlas flextrack is an excellent value, but there are other more prototypical in appearance.
Anyway, ask away as there is a lot of help avaialble here!
Welcome, Coyote. This should be an exciting time for you. And, it is always easy on the ears (okay, eyes) when someone new joins because they have watched for a while and decided we are okay.
Track? Do your limitations preclude soldering? If so, you’ll have to pass on the flex and hand-laid stuff. Also, unless these modules have curves and straights that just happen to accommodate the snap-track versions, you’ll have to use the flex variety. A conundrum.
As for DCC, I will have the temerity to speak for many and say DCC, no more questions.
The industry, although rife with many who still prefer analog systems and DC, is leaning very heavily towards digital sound and loco/layout management. You might as well grab on to an accelerating caboose.
I kinda envy you, your whole experience in the hobby is ahead of you.
Don’t be afraid of Atlas flex track and turnouts. They are great products that are reasonably priced. Go with Code 83 for a more “fine scale”, realistic appearance.
Definitely go for DCC from the start. You won’t be sorry.
I am about 8 weeks ahead of you. I too am a 1950’s logging and minning road. I went L girder instead of woodland scenics for bench work. Made my love of elevations and tunnels easier. I used woodland scenics foam roadbed with Atlas flex on top of Plywood cookiecutter subbed. I am still using DC because I wanted to run some old Brass engines and didn’t want to get into switching at first. If I was to have all new engines and the money, DCC seems to be the way to go. For scenry I am using some Woodland scenic cloth over rolled paper and expermenting with carving rock directly into blue foam. Early results are encouraging.
I realize that some of these terms will be new to you, they were to me, but take the time to ask questions and this group will give answers, some of which are really pretty good.
I should be able to solder (he said wryly, having never soldered a thing in his life.
WS says that the Mod-U-Rail kits Include N & HO Track-Bed, and can be used with these track brands: Atlas True-Track, Atlas Snap Track, Bachmann E-Z Track, Kato Unitrack, Life-Like Power-Loc and Peco Streamline. shrugs If that is in anyway informative, so far I have seen the Kato Unitrack and it intrests me, but that is an ininformed intrest. [:)]
As to Code. I may be speaking out of ignorance here (by misunderstanding your meaning) but I’m, looking between 83 and 100. I have read that 100 is prefered to 83 even though 83 has been the standard. Is that correct or am I completely out in left field?
Peace
Coyote
P.S. Grande Man set me Straight on this one, my lumber room I call a mind had it backwards it was 83 that I read was preferable to 100. So that is where my preferance is running right now. Code 83.
Hello to you Grande. Thanks for the reply.
I have heard Atlas is good nods but I had heard/read that Code 100 was starting to be prefered to 83? Perhaps I got that backwards. Could you tell me, if you dont mind, what is the advantages of 83 or 100?
Hi Art! Great to hear from another greenhorn, or after weeks do we get our NG rating?[:D]
Thanks for the reply it makes me feel not so cherry here [:)]
As for Benchwork I’m looking at buying it direct from Sievers Benchwork to save my self a -lot- of trouble, although i’ll make up for that trouble by paying out the nose… ouch [8)]
Thanks again for the reply it was very encouraging.
I think maybe you do have it backwards. Code 83 looks more realistic. The rail height is more correct in size (.083") and the tie size/detail is much more believable. Go check out both Codes at a hobby shop, I think you’ll agree.
Best wishes on your project. When can we expect pics?[:D][:D][:D]
Coyote, most start off in code 100 track because they are used to dealing with that size, especially if they started with train ‘sets’ that included the snap variety. The sets will almost certainly have code 100, with its higher profile. However, the more…uh…‘serious’, or ‘dedicated’ guys will argue that code 83 or even 70 is more in scale with the prototype. So, you can make your choice.
If you are able to solder (don’t get me started!!! my soldering sucks), then please consider using the Flex-track, or similar types. It just looks better if done well, because the fake plastic ‘ballast’ of the snap variety is not as good looking as ballast.
Oh, did we mention that you really should go with DCC? [:D]
Yes it was me being backasswards on that one, you are quite correct, thank you for turning me back around. [:)]
The initial cleaning of the garage for the OL will take perhaps 2 or 3 weeks and then it will be time to order and set up benchwork, so if all goes well, and I can figure out how to actually use the blessed Digital Camera, I might have some begining construction pics around the begining of Sept.
Grande man is spot on. There are IMO only 2 good reasons for choosing to use code 100 track.
You have older locomotives with deeper flanges that will not run on code 83 or smaller. This is my reason, as I want to run my old Briti***rains from my first childhood!
Your local hobby shop only carries code 100 and you want to buy what you can pick up easily close to home. Don’t under estimate this because there is nothing more frustrating than having to stop a project waiting for track to show up in the mail.
If it were not for my desire to run my old stuff I would be code 83 all the way.
Yes I had it backwards on that one, Grande Man set me straight. I am currently wanting to use Code 83. A question in regards to Flex-track, which I know zero about currently, what are its advantages and must each piece be molded to shape by hand?
[:D] Sure did and I am now leaning towards DCC on the recommendations of all of you fine folks. My only hesitation in DCC is that, being no electrician by any means, I sort of follow DC in a general sense, whereas DCC. what I’ve seen of it, makes my eyes cross. [xx(]
When you use flextrack, you actually use the sectional track for the switches/turnouts and join them together with the flextrack. Flextrack can be easily curved and cut to length to fill the gaps, so to speak, between the turnouts. Here are a couple of articles from the MRR site to give you some basic information.
DCC is full of jargon and can seem daunting, especially when it comes to things like programming decoders. However, I would say that the basic wiring job for DCC is far simpler than the wiring for DC. So if you find the wiring aspect daunting, DCC is without doubt the way to go. With you bench work building and the expectation of laying track in September, you have a lot of time to build up a comfort level.
Back from dinner, the OL cooks a mean porkchop [:D], and what a joy to come back to so many wonderful. informative and friendly replies. I am pleased as can be with the folks here and going to set up stakes and stay, I think.
I had a further question that I forgot to mention in my first post, which is rather silly considering its one of my big ones… Mind like a lumberyard I tell ya.
Anyway here it is: The Garage I will be using for my MR is well insolated but unheated or cooled, now the OL and I happen to live in Texas and as I’m sure the other MR’s from Texas can tell you… boy it gets hot down here all.
Any recomendations on this? Should I not worry? Should I give it up till I can tie a fan to the cat’s tail and sit it on a block of Ice? Worries, concerns?
Welcome to the world of railroading, you’re in for an interesting ride.
Being a neophyte myself, the best move to make is to join NMRA ,National Model Rail- road Association, & the local regional clubs near your home.
They are a source of info that seems to be bottomless
Have a great time. lester2max
Hello Lester2max. Thanks for the reply. I will look into both the NMRA and any clubs I happen to find near my area. Although I dont have a situation currently that allows me much free time outside of the house, what with scheduals and all, however great advice and suggestions.