To strip paint from a loco shell, I intend to use 99% isopropal alcohol. Can the shell be left to soak over night (say 10pm to 10am) without fear of damage to details on the shell? Or if not, how long would you recommend (at maxumium) soaking a loco shell in 99% Isopropal Alcohol?
Thanks,
Trevor
I think it would depend on the shell. I melted a MRC F7 shell trying to take the paint off of it. It was essentially a Highliner shell, rather thin with lots of detail. Even an Athearn BB shell will deform if left too long.
I would recommend minimal exposure time-wise. Just until the paint softens, then scrub and clean. Re-dip if needed.
I have found that the paint on the low end Bachmann shells is the hardest to remove, at least so far.
I am reluctant to try removing the paint on a PK2 GP30 loco I have been considering changing into a NYC. The LL shells are thin and fairly soft.
You might think about using something milder. Pinesol or one of the commercial, water soluble paint removers.
Good luck, whatever you choose to do.
I don’t know. Its that fear that keeps me from leaving plastic shells in alcohol for more than a hour or two. Allen’s probaly right. Don’t leave it in there too long.
This may be slightly off topic, but I’ve soaked Athearn BB reefers in 91% alcohol for only 30 mins. Paint came off with no negative effects on the body.
Trevor;
Try 10 minutes to start.
Allan;
Isopropyl Alcohol is a water soluble paint remover.
What’s a maximum time for Pinesol? I’ve used it on pewter wargame figures to great effect…soaking over night.
Thanks,
Trevor
Trevor, what type of shell are you stripping? If it’s a KATO, do not use 91% or 99% alcohol. It may warp.
I"ve soaked shells from other manufacturers in 91% Alcohol. While soaking, I check the shell after 3 minutes. If all’s o.k, I then check after 10 minutes. By then, depending on the model, paint is usually coming loose.
Rivorossi passenger cars are incredibly easy. Paint comes off in less than 5 minutes on the streamliners.
Same for Bachmann passenger cars and Metroliners.
P2K loco shells are usually o.k, just check frequently. I would not let one soak for 12 hours.
Some colors on the older Athearn Blue Box locos, like silver, are tougher to remove and require longer soaking. (Try stripping a BB Santa Fe FP45! Not a 10 minute job. ) It’s safe to let them soak for a long period as those shells are thick. Brake Fluid was the most common method used for stripping the older BBs. Involved an overnight soaking.
Between Pine Sol and 91% alcohol, I found alchohol more effective. However, there are other products that modelers here have experimented with successfully. Hopefully they’ll chime in with their feedback.
Just get an old cheap shell off of e-Bay or out of your collection that you do not use, and just keep an eye on it, and try 3-10 min to start out. Good Luck!
Experimenting is fine, but I stick with commercial products made for this use. I use either chameleon stripper or PollyS ELO , never harmed a shell that way, and I do paint 99% of my locos myself. Back in old days I did use brake fluid before it was changed it never harmed any shells them either.
I’ve had good luck using Castrol Super Clean to strip paint. I’ve left parts in there for a week, and it doesn’t seem to do any damage. Oven cleaner can be used to strip paint as well. With either chemical, don’t get it on your hands. Use tongs to remove parts from the solution.
What should I use on an Atlas/Kato to strip the paint??
JIM
Thanks everyone for your input. Greatly appreciated.
Antonio,
The loco’s I will be stripping are:
Let me know what you think and if 99% IA or Pinesol is better
Trevor
FOLLOW-UP: What’s the problem?!?
I decided I’d start my first attempt at paint stripping with a Walthers Trainline GP9m. I had already painted over the original CN modern scheme with a Green/Yellow livery (by hand) to see what it would look like. It turned out pretty good in terms of colour, but the paint job was bad…so now I wanted to strip it, with the intent to paint it using the air brush on the weekend.
Let’s get to it…I poured the Isopropal Alcohol into a container and submersed the shell. Sure enough after 3-5 minutes (as you all suggested) the Green and Yellow paint started to come off. I light scrubbing with a toothbrush was all that was required to remove these colours.
So I figure let it soak another 3-5 minutes and the Black/white/CN red will come off, leaving me with a nice grey plastic shell ready for air brushing. No. Wrong. Uh Un. Not happening. I soaked it for 30 minutes. Nadda. Zippo. Nothing. The paint gave no sign of budging. So I gave it another 30 minutes…that’s 1 hour for those not counting…nothing. No bubbling. No flaking. As pristine as the day I bought it.
Out of curiosity, I scratched the inside of the loco shell with a knife, and it seems that the shell is actually black plastic. So I decided to call it quits. Quick note, the original decalling all came off fine.
Question is…Is this normal for paint not to come off after a full hour in 99% Isopropal Alcohol? After what everyone told me I was sure that an hour in the soaker would just melt the shell into goo!
Should I try again in Pinesol? Or would I be wasting my time?
Trevor
Hi Trevor,
I had a similar problem and had to soak a stubborn Athearn much longer for 4 or 5 hours. Part of the problem with the fast evaporating alcohol is that left in the open, it eventually loses “it’s punch” and weakens. So putting a lid on the pan or container, IMHO, is helpful.
I’m getting ready to strip another FP45 shell. I want to do a comparison test so I’m going to try “Easy Off” as I’ve read that several modelers also got good results.
emdgp92 mentioned Castrol Super Clean Degreaser and I’d have to agree. I first used it a year ago to strip an old Athearn BB with several coats of paint . It did a great job, is biodegradeable and cleans up with water. Most of the paint came loose in the first 10 minutes and some light scrubbing got the rest.
Gloves are a must though, and goggles aren’t a bad idea either. The bottle says to use in a well-ventilated area. Most auto parts stores (Canadian Tire up here) will carry it. Its a much better bet than oven cleaner in my experience.
Soaking I find is not the best way to do paint stripping as it CAN harm fine details. Athearn BB kits actually have quite nice detail once the OEM paint is stripped off. (It’s usually put on quite thick!) Polly S ELO has worked for me the best and I apply it with a large soft brush straight from the container. Paint the whole shell with it and let is sit for a while, then witha stiff tooth brush start scrubbing. It will take several trys to get it all off, but there is less chance of destroying details if the plastic should soften. I have tried the Pine-Sol trick a few times with mixed results at best. Have not tried the alcohol method. so I can’t comment on it, only what I do that works for me.
Thanks again for everyone’s input.
Thanks CMLewis, next time I’m in Crappy Tire I’ll have a look for this product.
Trevor
For years I have used brake fluid with no harm after soaking for long periods of time. I now use ELO and really like it. It is especially good to remove the numbers and not remove the paint. You have to watch it continually and scrub often to prevent the underlying paint from lifting, but the ELO works slow enough so you can control the penetration. Apply like the other comments above and you will be fine. I will try the Castrol, just to compare.
Ok, I’m baffled.
Everyone says 3 minutes and paint will start stripping off shells (when using 99% Isopropal Alcohol) so watch them carefully. The only part that comes off after 3 minutes are the factory decals! It took over an hour an a good bit of elbow grease with the toothbru***o get the paint to move.
Now, I just got up after a nice long snooze, and have had my P2K SW9/1200 in GN Orange and Green livery soaking (in IA) since 6:30pm yesterday. By 7:30pm the green was all gone, but even now some 14 hours later the orange hasn’t budged!
I also soaked my Athearn GP9m in Pinesol for the same period of time and the original factory paint also hasn’t budged. The numbering has come off.
Where do I get ELO? I’m confused and frustrated with this whole process. Is there some sort of finish on these shells that IA and Pinesol just wont break through?
I tell ya, since I’m going with my own livery I’m buying undecorated shells from now on.
Trevor
UPDATE: I finished the GP9m! I am very happy with the results.
Here is is with my two factory painted Green & Yellow CN loco’s
Thanks for your help guys. Anyone anything about why the orange paint wont budget from my P2K sw9/1200. It’s a GN in Orange and Dark Green livery. The green came off in about an hour, the orange soaked for 14 hours and didn’t budge!
Trevor
Yeah, I have a Walthers SW1 in SP colors that I want to strip. The 91% alcohol took of the orange lettering and numbers and started on the black paint, but the orange “safety stripes” just won’t come off the shell. The ones on the frame come off OK; they seem to printed on with something like ink. The shell looks like it’s off-white or tan in color, once the black comes off. The frame is OK black if all the orange comes off.
Any ideas? Polly S ELO? Brake fluid? Pine Sol? Castrol Super Clean? Acetone (just kidding)? Sulfuric acid(still kidding)? New undec shell?
BTW, what’s the active ingredient for Polly S ELO?
Brad