I’ve searched this forum, and the web, but the only decoders that I can find to fit a Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 are a former plug-n-play that’s not made anymore. Most of the web links I find are from 2000-2005.
I have two of these locomotives, and while I’m just a newb to this hobbie, I like them a lot (good runners already) and would like to replace the standard DCC decoder that it came with with a sound capable version. I’ve been surprised that my searches have come up kind of empty, but I may have been overlooking something basic.
Does anyone know what the best, and perhaps most importantly, easiest decoder replacement would be? As I’ve got two of them, I’m not too afraid of doing the job myself - especially at the eBay prices I paid for these (NIB no less). I can solder, but I’m no expert.
I appreciate everyone’s suggestions, and patience.
You might want to look at the Soundtraxx Tsunami decoder series ( I think the light steam version would work). Lots of options and features - including multiple whistles to select from. You can listen to the different versions from here:
There are lots of resources to get these from such as Tony’s Trains, Litchfield Station and Charleston Digital Trains to name a few. I’ve used the heavy steam version myself - the install was very straightforward.
I got a simultaneous reply from Norm at Tony’s Trains suggesting the same thing, so thank you for that. Is it worth putting a $100 decoder into a $60 locomotive? Besides the sound, do folks with the Tsunami’s see big improvements in engine performance?
I saw your thread about that, and I have the identical 4-4-0. I thought I’d tackle the Consolidations first, to work on my skills in this area, as my 4-4-0 really needs the additional tender pickups.
Thanks for your feedback, I’ll most likely pick up the Tusunami light steam decoder.
Sounds good. Litchfield Station has free shipping over $50.00.
My installation was a little more difficult as I had removed the PC board because the DSD decoder was a little large for the tender area. This was my first DCC install. I installed extra wipers in my 4-4-0 tender that made a difference. I believe I posted a link for someones idea on adding wipers.
A fellow in the club I belong to installed a Micro in a 4-4-0 using the PC board. You should have no trouble with the 2-8-0.
Remember to cut out the capacitors that are on the PC board. They are know to cause issues.
Consider taking photos of your installation for others to follow. We are all helping each other.
Having done this on several IHC 2-6-0 and having a few Bachmann 2-8-0 with sound (Tsunami) I would go with the medium, not the light for the 2-8-0. Better whistle selection that the light (that is more for the really small locos, Shays and Heislers).
Here are some specs. The Micro-Tsunami has two functions and 0.75 amp max. The Standard Tsunami has four functions and 1 amp max. Both have external Chuff Sync capabilities.
Does the engine currently have a decoder in it?? If so, you might consider adding an MRC “Sounder” sound-only decoder. I just installed one in a Spectrum engine and I thought it worked out pretty well, considering it costs under $30!!
I installed ESU Loksound decoders into two Spectrum 2-8-0 last week. There is plenty of room in the tender. I soldered the wires of the decoder directly to the little printed circuit board of the engine/tender connector. The loudspeaker got glued over a hole I made into the floor of the tender. I did also add some weight.
As I wrote, there is plenty of room in the tender and the installation is quite simple. The engines runs very good with the ESU Loksound decoder. ESU supplies also a soundfile for the 2-8-0.
ps. I did also add some current pickup in the tender to use each wheel on both sides. The engine-tender combination never stalls with so much pickups.
Here is the exploded tender, with the stock decoder removed, and the new parts. Now go easy on me, as this is my first time with this, so please be understanding in your responses.
The stock circuit board stays, right? Part marked as 2 plugs into 1 on one end, but I sever the adapter on the other end, and match up like colored wires from the new Tsunami sound decoder (#3)? Solder and wrap the connections?
The speakers (#4) I know what do do with except for the cream colored wire that comes from the Tsunami.
I appreciate your help. I’m was thinking - easy! but before I start hacking, i’d rather have a better idea of what to do.
Simple one first, the cream colored wire is for the optional Exhaust Chuff Cam. You probably will not need it at all unless you install the cam/contact.
If you are really good at soldering you can use the socket connector that attaches the engine to tender. Red and black are power pickup. The other green/orange/purple/blue you will have to figure out as they are not standard color code.
Other option is cut and remove a portion of the shrink wrap and remove the JST connector from the Tsunami. Then simply plug your item #2 direct to the decoder.
I don’t see mention of drilling holes to let the sounds thru the coal load ? Did you provide this. If you simply put the speaker in the tender, you are loosing much volume. And the speaker must be mounted and sealed to a baffle or sound board to get max volume out of it. Same as an audio speaker is mounted in a sealed enclosure or ported.
I’ll bet you the Bachmann decoder has the JST 9pin connector on it and that you could have used that.
I didn’t drill holes in the tender load; I’ll have to look at doing that. Is there a clever way to disguise the holes?
The speaker is in a enclosure that I got from Tony’s Trains (see the picture a few posts back; you can see it there.
Forgive my ignorance, but the JST 9pin is the wide white connector, correct? Are you suggesting that i could have plugged in the tsunami into that decoder, directly and not use the harness, or that I could have added a sound decoder only? If that’s the case than I think I’d rather replace the Bachmann decoder, as the locomotive runs a whole heck of a lot smoother with the Tsunami in place.
Nice job with the pictures Scarpia. You know what they say about a picture vs words. Not to get off topic. but I think using foam under your cork is going to make more noise than cork on plywood or homasote on plywood. Thought you might want to know. Once again, nice job!
YES, you must have holes to let the sound pass. As it is you have a hand over the mouth (to give you a visual image). You can mount the speaker on the floor but this would require you remove the small card and the weight and drill numerous holes as seen here.
Simpler is to leave it alone and drill the coal load. Yes you must drill holes in the coal load to let the sound out. Use a #55 dril to make holes at an angle. Here is a link to Soundtraxx install document that covers how too :
The inclosure you have is fine. but you need to let the sound out of the tender, my friend. I promise it will drown out the noise from track.
If you cut the Bachmann shrink wrap back a tad, I’ll bet you the decoder has the same 9pin JST connector you needed and purchased. But I could be wrong.
The standard Tsunami, 1 amp. has a 9 pin JST connector. The Micro-Tsunami, 0.75 amp. does Not have any connector. You have to had your own connector or hard wire directly.
Cutting the shrink back for the JST connector might affect the warranty.
