What’s the “best” decoder for the Atlas version of the RS-2, sound options and “fit” into the unit?
I’ve into a RS-1 installed an ESU sound decoder. I had only one problem because I did hurry. [:(!]
You can see it at the pictures. If not, the problem is not big.
Wolfgang
LokSound is a great choice, but is very expensive comparred to my first choice; Digitrax SFX. It will fit and with the right sound package, itll sound great too! Not to mention alot cheaper than the LokSound.
David B
Tony’s (http://www.tonystrains.com/) lists this one:
820042: DSD-AT100LC ALCO for Atlas HO
I have a Soundtraxx in my ALCO P1K RS-3. It’s got that classic signature Alco sound - like it’s ready to throw a rod the next time the crankshaft comes around. It’s a pretty basic decoder - engine sound, bell and whistle. I think it might have dynamic braking, too, but I don’t think the RS-3 had those.
I also installed an 820042 in a RS-1, and it sounds just like the classic ALCO. It probably would work in the RS-2/3 also.
IMO the decoders with the most flexibility are the Digitrax SFX and the Loksound decoders.
One of the popular comments regarding the Soundtraxx decoders for the RS3 is the single chime horn sound is not as loud as the three or five chime offerings. The DSD decoder offers a choice between 1,3, or 5 chime horns while the DSX is horn specific and you must choose your horn when you order the decoder (WABCO single chime, Leslie 3 chime, or Nathan 5 chime).
The Soundtraxx decoder has a nice ALCO engine and bell sound. However the single chime horn’s low frequency tones are harder to reproduce in this loco with the supplied coupling capacitor and recommended speaker short of sacrificing one the end weights. If your prototype uses a three chime or five chime horn this is not as much as an issue. BTW with a locomotive capable of fitting a larger speaker and /or coupling capacitor, the single chime horn sounds fine.
Using a Digitrax or Loksound decoder give you the opportunity to amplify the single chime horn and to “equalize” the frequency response (QSI does this also) for this narrow hood install. Other sounds - engine, bell, air let off can be adjusted as well. Currently, you must create your own sound scheme for an ALCO if you use the Digitrax decoder; there are other SFX users like davidmbedard on this forum who may be able to help here. Also there is a Digitrax sound decoder users group (separate from the standard Digitrax users group) on Yahoo. Sound projects will be posted there as they are developed by its users.
If you choose the Soundtraxx decoder, I recommend purchasing the GC 16x35 mm speaker, part number GC0351M; this speaker has greater sensitivity (.5 watt rating and requires less output current) as compared to the standard speaker available from Soundtraxx. The difference in output is noticeable.
I have three HO Atlas RS-3s and one Kato RS-2. I used Soundtraxx DSD-110LC decoders. Aside from whether the single chime horn sounds right, the challenge in either of these installations is finding a suitable place for a sufficiently large speaker.
I followed suggestions offered by Bruce Petrarca @ Litchfield Station: carve about .30" off the short end weight and place the speaker facing down on top of the weight AFTER boring 4 1/8" holes through the weight to let the sound out. My speaker just fits inside the RS-2/3 shell so no baffling is required. Sounds pretty good to me.
I model the D & H; most of their RS-2/3 had 3 chime horns so I selected that sound option. From several industry sources,
I’ve heard that the Digitrax offering is not as capable as the Soundtraxx but that may have been a “sales thing.” I have no experience the Loksound but I think they are significantly more expensive than the Soundtraxx offering.
Very nice work, Jon! Thanks again for sharing your craft through video.
I agree, Mr. Petrarca’s method is one of the best for installing in the Atlas RS3. I use that method as well.
I forgot to mention in my previous post there are two versions of the end weights in the Atlas RS3. The newer weight provides a better baffle because it is somewhat closed as opposed to the older design found in the Kato built units having a more open design. The sound quality is better with the new design. I added pieces of styrene to the older weights to improve the baffle. That, along with the .5 watt speaker improved the output.
One of the criticisms of the Digitrax decoder relates to the 3 simultaneous sounds as opposed to the Soundtraxx’s 4. Everyone’s taste and requirements vary, so I recommend to everyone interested to audition one.
The Loksound decoders are more expensive; however there are some technical differences to mention:
- The decoder is a silent running decoder with a higher freque
I am also modelling the D&H, in the roughly early 1950’s with mostly diesels and a couple of end-of-life steam units. I have 6 RS-2s, Atlas and P1000. It sounds lie the Soundtraxx DSD-110 would do, although I have heard that the ESU decoders sound better.
Here is a shot of a P1K RS2 with a Soundtraxx DSD110LLC installed:
The speaker is enclosed in a “baffle” made from 040 styrene; the shell creates an infinte baffle for the rear speaker pressure. The speaker is a GC 16x35 mm, 8 Ohm, 0.5 watt version. I used LED’s with a snubber made with a .1 microfarad capacitor and two 1K ohm resistors to eliminate the LED blink that occurs when sending commands to the DSD decoder. The circuit can be found at http://www.litchfieldstation.com/lobby/hods_kato_AC4400CW.htm
I have an Atlas Classic RS3 that I want to put sound into so this thread is perfect. I also have one of the Athearn RTR (ex MDC) RS3’s, this loco has a JST connector so I currently have a Digitrax DH123 installed. Which sound decoder would you choose for the Athearn from a space/fit perspective.
Thanks!
Jason
The Athearn RS3 is cramped for space; I recommend the Loksound decoder with the dual 0.63 inch speaker assembly. Or if you can get an ALCO sound project, use a Digitrax SFX064D with a Z scale DN143 for motor control; I recommend trimming down the motor brushes one-third to reduce the overall current draw and polish the commutator contacts with a piece of fine sandpaper.