For those of you with experience in laying spline roadbed, I have decided to wade into those deeper waters. But, along with the gooseflesh from feeling the chilly depths in places I’d rather not, I seem to be having trouble deciding how to line it all up in 3-D. I understand how to set the risers with clamps, use a nail to anchor the splines until I have three or more glued, etc., but how do I know, for sure, that the curves I generate will be in line with the eventual turnouts at sidings, yards, etc? I have not used CAD (too impatient), so I have mapped it all out with 3/4" masking tape on the rug. It looks okay, and would use the tape centre as my nail centre indicators on the risers, but should I actually put sections of track over the tape, and fix the turnouts where they will be?
Seems like a dumb question, now that I have typed it, but…and, how much fudge factor should I build in to the riser widths in case I have to deviate by 1-2 degrees here and there?
Crandall,
It’s always good to leave about 3/4-1" out the sides of the riser. This isn’t so much as for fudge factor as to give additional mounting surface for any additional spline strips if needed or ply if ever needed for scenery base. Many times I have intentionally let a 1x2 protrude 6-8" and angled it off for special scenery supports. Any of these cleats can always be scabbed on later anyway.
The center spline/ centerline will automatically set easements and any turnouts should already be placed, even if temperary. I assume that most turnouts yard/ throat will be on plywood. The center spline can be notched/ mortised into the edge of the ply for strength.
You could even double cleat at any of these tricky spots. Turnouts off mainline can be built right into the spline by mitering the diverging route into the main (use the switch or template for angle and position)
Bob K.
Thanks very much for your reply, Bob. I had my LBS (local builders shop [:D]) , very tolerant people, cut two 4X8’s of 1/4" MDF into full length X 15/16" strips. I paid them $10 for the service, but it was a bargain @ $0.40/cut normally. I even got a builder’s deal reducton on the material, plus airmiles, so all-in-all it was a good deal.
Have you used a floor/rug-level diagram to eyeball from directly overhead where the risers and and eventual splines should run? It seems that if the (masking)tape tells the story, and it all looks good, then the splines will do an improved version due to their nature…I hope.
-Crandell
P.S.- about the yard, I am using a 30" X 80" hollow core interior door, but I will underlay the yard track with strips of a dense 3/16" rug underlay meant to silence floors. A little freebie that the fellow who made me take apart my last layout threw in when I told him that it would be great under tracks for silencing. I will even have room for my turntable, just, at one end of the door, closest to the aisle edge, which the leading door edge will provide. Should be fun cutting out its resting orifice in a hollow door.
Crandall,
The layout design and construction is my club, South Shore Model Railway Club. Various members working on designCAD to club approval then full scale templates are printed. The benchwork is layedout very similar to your approach, only reference tape marks are on sealed concrete. Once the benchwork is built rough templating/ layout is done to see if any changes are nec to accomadate the axact track plan. The joke in the club is our layout design chairman will inspect the track layout with a micrometer. The full size template dictates where the risers will be. Additional crossmembers are added at this time if needed.
I don’t do any of the actual woodworking on the benchwork. I spend my days as a finish carpenter/ contractor, the last thing I want to do with my evenings is more of the same. We have many capable woodworkers in the club that do a fantastic job. Most of our benchwork is of cabinet quality. I do however help them out with tricky layouts and odd cuts in facia. Next to running trains, I love to do scenery. Altering benchwork and setting bridge supports/ abutments to accomodate m
Thanks for the tips on the door, Bob. I’m kinda stuck on it, but I can see your very good points, particularly the fixes that I will probably have to make as I set the yard; they might damage the door surface. In fact, I have the ply left over from the last layout, so I may still use it for the house and table. Also, about scoring the luan first, good point!
It is good to know that I am taking the right approach. I can visualize it all, but have only two hands and one mediocre brain to run them. Also, I have never tackled this method. I’d hate to run into an obvious difficulty about three hours into the benchwork, so you have put me greatly at ease.
Thanks, again.
-Crandell
Edit - okay, I’m convinced to use the leftover 5/8 ply for the yard. Thanks.