I have just finished my station (based on the pola models) out of popsicle sticks. I cut of the rounded ends and I looks splendid. I used Gorrila Glue that I bought at Micheal’s arts and crafts store. There are even becches, tables, and desks in the station.
After I painted it, I tackled my next posicle stick project, a Caboose. It is almost finished as I had plenty of time to work on it oer the weekend. I am going to fini***he inteiriors before I attach the wall and the roof. I found a Bachmann Conductor figure at a yard sale on staurday, and there is simulation carpet.
General rule of large scale structures: 1/2" is equal to 1 scale foot.
This is 1/24 scale but it is by far the easiest way to build if you do not have a scale ruler. Walls=8’ -0" (4") minimum 10’-0" (5") was common up to 1950’s
Doors 7’-0" (3-1/2") is easiest to use.
The tops of window usually line up with the tops of doors.
Get a good general book on house construction from your library, it will explain most of what you will need.
Be careful with roofs, these can screw up a seasoned carpenter, right Matt? start simple then try things like hips roofs and dormers and valleys
Hi Nick
As vic said 1/2" (13mm) to the foot
Look in model railway mags for a simple one that gives dimentions in full size feet and inches.
The golden rule measure three times cut once
regards John
And still buy extra wood for when you forget which side of the line you’re supposed to cut on.
If you’re going to be scratchbuilding your structures, build them to the same scale as your trains. I know 1/2" seems like an easy compromise, but a 1/2" scale (1:24) station next to a 1:20.3 locomotive will look odd. A 1/2" scale station next to a 1:29 locomotive will also look odd. You’ll be going through the trouble of locating plans, enlarging them, and scaling measurements off of them anyway. Using a scale rule properly scaled to your trains will make all the difference in the world visually.
Large buildings can be “selectively compressed” to fit smaller spaces, while still retaining the proportions of key architectural details such as doors and windows to suitably match your trains. You don’t want your engineer bumping his head on the door frame any more than you want him staring eye-to-eye with the doorknob.
1/2" is a popular scale because it’s “visually acceptable” with large scale trains, and is a holdover from the early days when 1:24 was the popular scale for products designed for the garden. Everyone had a ruler, so everyone could build to the scale.Today, it’s no longer “visually acceptable” because the trains themselves are no longer either 1:22.5 or 1:24. With the emerging separation between the 1:29 standard gauge and 1:20 narrow gauge, there’s no reason in the world to hold on to this relic of the past. If you’re building it yourself, build it the right size.
“But now I have to go out and buy a scale rule for my designated scale.”
You already have one–on the same tool you used to build your 1/2" scale buildings. You’ve got to look at those “funny” lines on the other edge, though. Don’t worry, the fabric of American society will not unravel because we teach ourselves metric. For building in 1:20.3, the scal
I have gave up on the pola design and I am going to make my own.
It will have complete inteirior (as I have found scraps for every thing around my house and it will have a bathroom (I will have to make the toilet and sink). That will be an interesting project.
The windows will be peices of clear CD covers (I found that trick out from the website link on the cardboard coaches topic). I am sure it will look splendid.
By the way, I am going to build it to 1:20.3 scale.
Great post Ken and thanks! I’m new here and to this hobby, and just snooping around various mfgrs’ and retailers’ sites leaves one with a headache regarding exact scale in garden rr’g. It appears the best way to go (for me) is with 1:29 locomotives and rolling stock and either purchase structures etc. in that scale or scratch build my own.