I have a stepped ceiling on which I need to hang track lights. I haven’t measured it yet but one half of the room is 8 inches to 12 inches lower than the other half. (I’ll wake the wife)…it’s 1:30 a.m. at the moment…
Are there stand offs that will allow me to lower the track in the lowest half of the room? I’m confused about how many circuit track I need and what the differences are. (Also J, H track and other types.)
Finally (for now): Anyone know a formula for NOT using stand offs in the lower half of the room and choosing a wattage cfl that will “make up” the 8 to 12 inch difference in lumens, etc.? (Once again using CFLs with 75 watt equivalent minimum for the lower part of the ceiling).
If you have personally dealt with these issues when you installed your track lighting please share what you did to resolve any problems?
The incident light will go down as the square of the distance. Let’s say the layout is at 5 feet above the floor, the low half of the ceiling is at 7 feet and the high half is at 8 feet. So, your ceiling-to-layout distances are 2 feet and 3 feet. Squaring those, you have a ratio of 4 to 9. That’s roughly half, so you need to either double the wattage of the high bulbs or halve the wattage of the low bulbs. (Actually, if you have the number in lumens, it’s better to use those, as wattage doesn’t translate to brightness quite as directly with CFLs.)
I would stick with mounting the tracks directly on the ceiling. You could use threaded rod as a standoff, but you’re going to have to make up some sort of clunky-looking attachments for them where the electrical connections are made.
I would look at getting dimmable CFLs and installing one dimmer for the low ceiling and another dimmer for the high one. That way, you can do the lighting adjustment by eye. And, once you start adding street lights and illuminated buildings, you’re going to want turn the lights down low for some night running now and again. The key is dimmable CFLs, and possibly dimmers which are compatible with them. Regular CFLs won’t work with standard incandescent dimmers.
Based on Mister B’s numbers, couldn’t you simply double the number of fixtures where the ceiling is high? Of course, you could just as easily halve the number where the ceiling is low, but, in my opinion, more is better when it comes to lighting. [swg]
That’s true, and more fixtures does give a more even light distribution, but when you look at the components of track lighting, the expensive ones are the light heads. After the initial expense, you’d also be faced with maintaining more light bulbs, too. CFLs overall are supposed to have a lower lifetime cost than incandescents, and they are supposed to last longer, but the fewer you have the lower your lifetime cost for the whole system will be.
As Mr Beasley said, you can use threaded rod to hang reom the ceiling. Then use “Unistrut” at the bottom of the threaded rod to mount your track on.
Unistrut is a U shaped channel made of metal,with slots and holes spaced along its entire leingth. Can be bought in any leingth can be bought at most electrical supply stores, and also Home Depot, Lowes Ect…
There are track systems that have suspension stems or cables that are not clunky. And definitely go for higher illumination, about 100 foot-candles for working.
As for CFLs, Captain, I thought you have headache problems generated by fluorescent lamps, do you not? Also, I have read (no personal experience) that dimmable fluorescents do not dim uniformly.
Dante, you remember correctly concerning flourescents lighting and migrain(eurs), however, when I was at the NMRA National in Sacramento, someone informed me that cfls do not subtly flicker like the flourescent tube lights do. I was dubious as I’ve never been able to look directly at a bare twisty CFL bulb (the only type I’d encountered on several layouts) but sure enough, once contained within a track light can type head, they were migraine free! This was a great relief as well as a surprise due to the lack of windows or other ventilation to the outside was definitely going to be a heat issue!
Thanks for the Uni-strut info. I’ll definitely look into that as a possible solution.
Now that I understand an approach (or two) to take, I’ll consider doubling the fixtures and mounting directly to the ceiling but, yes, the price of light heads adds up alarmingly fast!
I would like dimmable CFLs and that was something I want to explore. I’ve read that the present CFLs only dim about 50% or so before going “out” that subtle dimming beyond a certain extent is not currently possible?
You can also get CFLs encased in a an outer shell that hides the fluorescent lamp itself and looks like a traditional incandescent bulb. However, I am not sure if they are available in higher output models.
Thanks again, Dante. I’ll look into them. I’m concerned about reducing the lumens/candlepower, etc. further as the CFLs seem to be a little less bright than incandescent equivalents (depending on what brand they are). This will give me another thing to add to my list when speaking with lighting people.
It’s getting complex out there in the bulb/lighting world.
I’m overjoyed though, to find that the CFLs are working for a migraineur! I hope that other sufferers on this forum will see this thread if they didn’t know about the lack of occillation before.
I can’t wait until Oct. when the lighting goes in and the rock work scenicing begins. It’ll sure be nice to be able to REALLY see in the train room before coloring anything.
You’re welcome, Jim. And you’re correct about the increasing complexity of the lighting world-more choices, more questions!
I suggest that rather than researching the lamps alone, research specific light track systems and especially their specific fixtures. The light generated will depend not only on the lamp but on the fixture and its construction, including baffles, reflectors, etc. Manufacturer’s web sites will have (at least some will, such as Prescolite, for example) photometric data for specific fixtures equipped with specific lamps. They will also do estimated footcandle calculations for you for a specific configuration in a specific room based on relevant dimensions and color (reflectance) of walls and ceiling.
Without going into exhaustive detail, when I determined my lighting, after doing some preliminary calculations based on the photometric data for different options, I contacted a distributor who provided further information and finally referred my specific situation to a factory rep. I gave them (by e-mail) a proposed plan of the layout in the room, a possible lighting layout, desired footcandle level (100
This is great. Just the tutelage I’ve been trying to find! Most sites (and I went to dozens) only had very basic info. or primers. Things that wouldn’t apply to our layout requirements. (Any of us…_)
Dante, I may PM you with a couple of brief questions if you don’t mind regarding how to work with a dealer and distributor. I tried two large lighting stores and no one was very helpful other than as a sales spiel.
I was hoping to have someone local come to see my room and discuss options before purchasing from them but so far no luck. While I had an electrician over for his recommendations he was helpful but of course had no knowledge of specific fixtures and brands, etc.
Jim, yes you could do all the lighting design calculations and maybe get the lighting effects desired, however, using track lighting allows you to have the ability to add the “heads” as needed to control the light.
I have found that Juno track offers all the lengths, fittings and options as well as quite a large selection of heads to chose from. Of coarse dimmable will allow the best way to fine tune the effects desired.
Thanks boGP40. Juno is one of the brands I’ve been considering.
The main thing for me to find in Oct. is a fixture that’s 6 3/4" deep (the “can”) to 7" even better to cover the ends of the curly bulbs. I also would like to see in person, the quality of light after a UV screen/lens is added. THAT’S one of the hard things about buying online or from a store that doesn’t even carry them.
Man, I long for the days when “Herb” would come up to the house during or right after work, from the local hardware/lighting store and tell you what he figured you’d need and some options over a cup of coffee (or if “Herb” Sr.) maybe a snoot after the “consultation” [;)] and get you “all set up” for the end of the week.
You guys, here, down at the “depot” are the next best thing, though!
Sorry that I did not reply sooner but have been away. I mentioned Prescolite, a very good brand. Whatever the manufacturer in which you are interested, check their site for data and/or dealers and/or distributors. That’s the “trail” I followed until the distributor’s rep finally referred the matter to a customer service tech rep at the manufacturer. Possibly, you could try contacting the manufacturer’s tech rep directly if they have a link or number on their web site. Once you have a resource, you can give them drawings and/or photos by e-mail. Again, I would shoot for about 100 footcandles (or more) for when you are doing detail work.
Dante
PS. Unless you have a professional or personal connection to a distributor, they will not sell directly to you but to a contractor. After I received the specific recommendations regarding fixtures, lamps and spacing, I gave the data to a contractor because I am not a licensed electrician, and the installation is of recessed fixtures in an existing ceiling that required a new circuit and dimmer. (Beyond my limited skills in any case!)<
Thank you Dante. I’m on the road myself… I’ll follow your lead when I return in Oct. and see if I can get a contractor set up. I’ll need an electrician to do some of this anyway. Heading for Steam Town U.S.A. and Cass Scenic, etc., typing this in a KOA in Idaho at the moment. I appreciate your details regarding the “path” to take with all of this. I’ll let you know how it went when the job is done. Really looking forward to being able to see better in the train room! I’ve held off painting any structures & scenery until the lighting is installed.