Straight facts on couplers

[Rotorranch]

The thing that makes me mad is that Kato N scale couplers will not couple with MicroTrains couplers unless I manually couple them.

What size MT couplers should I get for a Kato SD-40?

No one?

Look here: http://www.micro-trains.com/conversions/sheet007.pdf

More conversions here: http://www.micro-trains.com/conversions_n_pdf.php

Rotor

[gatrhumpy]

Thanks man. It looks like I need a 2001(001 02 050), whatever the other numbers mean…

[WP_3020]

One of the replies stating that all locomotives require an insulated shank, is not correct. If the metal coupler is in contact with anything that is electrically connected to the rails only then does it need an insulated shank. Some cars have this problem too. However, you can, in most cases, replace the metal draft gear box with a plastic draft gear box to insulate the coupler and eliminate the possibility of electrical shorts through the couplers.

Soon as you double head your steamers or lash up multiple diesels you will want insulated couplers. Most (all?) locomotives use the metal frame (chassis) to conduct current from the wheels to the motor. A metal coupler will contact the chassis and so become hot. When you couple two such locomotives together you have a 50% chance that the coupler on one locomotive is common with the north rail, and the coupler on the other coupler is common with the south rail. Coupled together, metal coupler to metal coupler, you have a direct short from north rail to south rail.

You only notice this problem after putting multiple locomotives on a train.

Cars are (mostly) non conductive plastic and so don’t care about conductive couplers.

With care, it is possible to mount a metal coupler in a plastic coupler box, secured with a nylon screw, and have it insulated from the hot chassis. However if the coupler itself is plastic, you don’t need to be so careful mounting it.

How much juice do you have to run to get it to jump through a plastic draft gear box to the shank of a metal coupler? Why a nylon screw? The plastic draft gear box should electrical insulate the coupler from whatever it is mounted to. If not, You didn’t do it right.

[Don_Gibson]

The thing that makes me mad is that Kato N scale couplers will not couple with MicroTrains couplers unless I manually couple them.

What size MT couplers should I get for a Kato SD-40?

2 Couplers need to MATCH each other. “Compatibility” is just another word for ‘almost’.

dstarr: is right on re HO Kadee’s. (N scale, I don’t know). ‘SHELF’ couplers belong on tank cars, period. Prodigious use may aid in ‘String lining’.

WP 3020: A metal coupler in a plastic box, using a metal screw, will not be insulated from a metal chassis. That’s why the series 30 couplers.

(plastic screws tend to bind and break in the hole).

[Rotorranch]

WP 3020:

a metal coupler in a plastic box, using a metal screw, will not be insulated from a metal chassis.

That’s why the series 30 couplers. (plastic screws tend to bind and break in the hole).

Maybe I’m confused, but the Kadee Platic boxes that I have, have got a little plastic bushing in them. I’m pretty sure they will electrically isolate the coupler, no matter what screw is used.

But…I’ve been wrong before. [:-^]

Rotor

[WP_3020]

Don Gibson:

Maybe you forgot “plastic box”? where does the “metal screw” come in direct electrical contact with the “metal coupler” when using a plastic box? If you do not use a plastic box for mounting your metal coupler to a metal chassis (like an Athearn or Bowser etc.) you will have problems with electrical continuity (and probably more) issues to deal with. Please, if you have a continuity tester or ohm meter could you check for an electrical pathway from a metal 2 56 machine screw through a plastic Kadee draft gear box to a metal coupler? If you modify the metal mounting pad to accept a plastic draft gear box (as I said before) you can use a standard metal non insulated shank coupler. The properly assembled and mounted plastic draft gear box will insulate the metal coupler from a metal frame.

[Don_Gibson]

Rotorranch: / WP 3020:

You are correct - as long as the metal screw doesn’t touch the the metal coupler & spring; and then there is the newer ‘Whisker’ coupler that depends on the (supplied) OEM housing.

Perhaps the key word is ‘proper installation’.

[BRAKIE]

Rotorranch: WP 3020:

You are correct - as long as the metal screw doesn’t touch the the metal spring; and then there is the newer ‘Whisker’ coupler using the (supplied) OEM housing.

Huh Don,the plastic coupler box will insulate the screw from the brass spring because the KD coupler box has a plastic screw housing.

[Rotorranch]

Don Gibson:

Maybe you forgot “plastic box”? where does the “metal screw” come in direct electrical contact with the “metal coupler” when using a plastic box? If you do not use a plastic box for mounting your metal coupler to a metal chassis (like an Athearn or Bowser etc.) you will have problems with electrical continuity (and probably more) issues to deal with. Please, if you have a continuity tester or ohm meter could you check for an electrical pathway from a metal 2 56 machine screw through a plastic Kadee draft gear box to a metal coupler? If you modify the metal mounting pad to accept a plastic draft gear box (as I said before) you can use a standard metal non insulated shank coupler. The properly assembled and mounted plastic draft gear box will insulate the metal coupler from a metal frame.

I’m lazy…[:-^]

Since I don’t have that many Athearn Locos, I just use the insulated (plastic shank) Kadee couplers. [:D] I’ve only broken one or two in the last 15 years or so.

Rotor

[WP_3020]

Rotorranch: / WP 3020:

You are correct - as long as the metal screw doesn’t touch the the metal coupler & spring; and then there is the newer ‘Whisker’ coupler that depends on the (supplied) OEM housing.

Perhaps the key word is ‘proper installation’.

Perhaps.

[Don_Gibson]

Herr Wankel:

I just use the insulated (plastic shank) Kadee couplers. I’ve only broken one or two in the last 15 years or so. - Rotor

The plastic Kadee’s may be tougher than the other plastic’s. Since changing to ‘super roller’s, I’ve broken that number of metal ones - rolling and hitting stationary cars (Whack!)’ I’ve taken out the incline. Also, 30 series comes in assorted shanks, + there IS a # 38 (insider joke).

BRAKIE: I think you are referring to Kadee’s molded ‘bushing’ the shank pivots around. The flat spring has a hole. (Dare we call it a “whole, hole”?)

the KD coupler box has a plastic screw housing.

WP: ARE you one of Joe Fugate’s Siskiyou boys?

[teen_steam_fan]

I’m the dissonate voice in the Kadee chorus.

It’s been my experience that all the various knuckle couplers work fine. I’ve not found the plastic couplers to be any more prone to breakage or warping than the Kadee products, provided that a proper mounting job is done.

I use what comes with my equipment for the most part. Everything gets tested against a Kadee height guage.

In any case enjoy your Model Railroad!

Mark Gosdin

With you on that

[WP_3020]

WP: ARE you one of Joe Fugate’s Siskiyou boys?

I live roughly 100 mi. South from him, we both know some of the same people and may have attended the same events but we haven’t met face to face, that I know of, yet.

2 Couplers need to MATCH each other. “Compatibility” is just another word for ‘almost’."

True. One of the former members of the Nscale club I’m with remarked that technically Rapido and MT couplers are compatible after seeing two trains bump and not being able to separate them because a Rapido slid under an MT and hooked around the MT’s trip pin.

[trainfan1221]

Yeah, in some circumstances this actually does work. Doesn’t look too good though.

[RRTrainman]

Its simple just follow the chart that Kadee has. Theres a reason for the differant couplers, height of car or loco, draft gear, radius of curve, a number differant reasons. Follow the chart for your application.[2c]