what is the best way to strip paint off of a locomotive shell or rolling stock
Denatured Alcohol
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
91% isopropol alcohol. I put my plastic shell (loco or ?) in a plastic tray, put it all in a plastic bag and leave it over night. Next day, the paint just washes off with a little brushing in some detail areas. Reuse the alcohol on the next project.
-Bob
Alcohol will work great on most paints, but occasionally you may run into some tougher stuff. For example, Riverossi used some paints a while ago that alcohol doesn’t touch. I found a product here in Canada called Mean Green that has worked well on paints that refused to budge with alcohol, even with the 99% stuff we can get here north of the border. Several of your fellow Americans have recommended another cleaning solution similar to the Mean Green but the name escapes me, and the website search engine has been its usual useless self trying to find the name.
I’m sure others will post the name of the product.
Dave
Kato shells will not get touched by 91% alcohol. Chameleon paint stripper works well on all shells.
I found that brake fluid works great, just wash with soap and water after an overnight soak.
I have used Scalecoat II Wash Away Paint Remover with success.
South Penn
[quote user=“hon30critter”]
Alcohol will work great on most paints, but occasionally you may run into some tougher stuff. For example, Riverossi used some paints a while ago that alcohol doesn’t touch. I found a product here in Canada called Mean Green that has worked well on paints that refused to budge with alcohol, even with the 99% stuff we can get here north of the border. Several of your fellow Americans have recommended another cleaning solution similar to the Mean Green but the name escapes me, and the website search engine has been its usual useless self trying to find the name.
I’m sure others will post the name of the product.
Dave
[/quote
The product I use is Pine Sol. it is a pine oil based cleaner. I immerse the plastic shell in it, full strength, for a day or two, works great (smells great too!). You want to be sure to wash the shell in some dish liquid soap and water after doing this, as the Pine Sol can weaken the plastic if exposed long term. And, if you strain the paint out of the Pine Sol using an old rag as a strainer, you can still use it as a cleaner, or, on your next project.
Testor’s ELO paint remover also works well. I have even been able to use the liquid multiple times to strip paint.
I have used both Pine Sol and 91% isopropyl alcohol with good results. You want to immerse the shell in the solvent completely, you want a container just big enough to hold the shell, so you don’t waste solvent. The solvent has done it’s work when a toothbrush can scrub the paint out of nooks and crannies. This may be a few hours to a day or so. I take the shell out of the solvent as soon as possible to minimize chances of the solvent attacking the plastic.
Recently, I had three Athearn BlueBox cars to strip, one a kit, new in the box, a slightly used one, and a bodyshell, with no floor or trucks. I used 99% alcohol, with little effect, then tried my old standby for Athearn cars, methyl hydrate.
Here’s an Athearn caboose after only a couple of minutes in methyl hydrate:
Unfortunately, after several days in the same stuff, and intermittent sessions of vigourous scrubbing with a brush, much of the paint remained on the boxcars. [banghead]
I had read of others having some success using a product, available at Walmart, called Super Clean, but was dismayed to find that a gallon was priced at $22.00 - a bit steep for only a chance that it would work. However, a week later I was visiting friends in the U.S. and decided to stop at a Walmart there, and was pleased (but not overly surprised) to find a gallon for $10.00, when the exchange rate was much more favourable than it is at present, so I bought some.
After 20 minutes-or-so, the paint was coming off in sheets, and the cars required only a little easy clean-up using the brush.
I washed the stripped body shells with dish detergent, then made some slight modifications, applied some paint and decalled them using a very nice set from the ACL/SAL Historical Society. Here are the three cars, all done as gifts for friends:
After the cars were finished (but before they were delivered), I realise
I stripped a number of older Athearn HO pullman green heavyweights so I could repaint and letter them for UP in two tone gray. Not experieced, I tried both denatured alcohol and the SuperClean. The result varied with the car, from different runs over the years I’d guess. The alcohol of course is flammable so care is suggested in an open container. I think the Super Clean includes some caustic compound(s) so even more care there regarding skin exposure. The Super Clean created enough reaction to notice the solution (in an aluminum tray with a loose plastic cover) heating noticeably. So use caution, good ventilation and minimize splashing.
I can’t say either was better at stripping, maybe the Super Clean. But I’d rather use the alcohol in the ventilated garage. I minimized the amount to 1/2 car depth and turned it over occasionally. One or two cars were much tougher than the other five, not sure why.
Wayne,
Your painting, decaling and weathering are outstanding. [Y]
You can send me gifts whenever you want. [;)]
I have foundthat Pine-Sol leaves an oder that will not go away even when the shell is thoroughly washed with dishwashing detergent.
Thanks for your kind words, Guy. I’ll keep you in mind, although my output is a bit sporadic, as layout construction is currently the top priority. [swg]
Wayne
I use Scale Coat Wash Away – the stuff is amazing and reuseable. The last time I strippedcars, I stripped 25 old and newer Athearns and the stripper is still potent. Good stuff!
Chuck
I posted these photos on a paint stripping thread some years back. I used 91% alcohol on a P2K E7 shell:
I use 91% alcohol in a tennis ball container. Its worked on everything I’ve ever tried except a Kato GP35.