About 3 weeks ago I shared something I learned from a Krylon Vendor Rep at work. Simply put, after cleaning the flashing from plastic building kits to give it a quick wipe down with paint thinner to remove the mold release compounds for better paint and glue adhesion.
As an update I would like to report a very high degree of success in following this simple instruction. Previously I had built both the Chalet and Gazebo from Piko. In both cases I had to re-glue the model several time while doing the finishing touches, i.e. adding furnishings, people, signage and the like. I just finished building the Hotel California (as two buildings instead of the designed three-story structure.) I washed the hotel with cheap paint thinner, then after painting I removed the paint form the glue mating surfaces (I wanted to glue plastic to plastic and not just paint to paint.)
During the post construction handling and even once knocking it off the workbench to fall 3 ½ to the floor, I have NOT had to do any additional gluing. I am following the same “guidance” with a couple of Colorado Miniature Structures I am currently working on. Thirty minutes ago I glue up their “Ticket Office” and decided to test the strength of the glue. I took the building, (only the walls with window frames installed) and tossed it fifteen feet across the yard and watched as it “rolled” across the lawn. I am happy to report that the only damage done was some grass stains on the corners. What kind of glue did I use? The cheap stuff, four small tubes of “super glue” for $1.00 at Wal-Mart.
I hope this information can reach as many people as possible. After reading and experiencing the frustrations of “structural glue” failure, I want as many of my friends as possible to no longer be frustrated. Any of you who belong to other sites who would like to, please spread this little bit of information.
Thanks your report is very timely for me. I just bought a Colorado Model Structure Fire house at the convention. I asked the guy what kind of glue to use, and he said, Airplane Glue, because it etches the plastic. I know that over time that glue will fail. I asked him about hot glue, and he said not. But your report even sounds better. As soon as I get the thing painted, I will head for Walmart. Thanks
I saw the plastic “melting” and ooze to the inside surface of the joint as I applied pressure. As the plastic “melts” and then “hardens” that is the strongest bond I know of.
There are some paint thinners that are petroleum based, however most (at least the cheaper stuff) is turpentine based. I only use the turpentine types, as they are a product of Mother Nature, tree sap. It is not anywhere as deadly to humans and our environment as the automotive type thinners. Those will eat most plastic to nothing.
I find that when I use the gel type I vary rarely glue myself to the project. SWMBO prefers the runny type, when I use it I end up gluing myself to the project about every thirty seconds.
Don: As far as I’m concerned, any of the CA’s will do the job. They basicly work by slightly “melting” the plastic so that you end up bonding the plastic to plastic, much the same as “vulcanizing” rubber to make a tire, not so much gluing it together, but melting it together.
I’ve got some stuff that has been outside for four years and sstill holding up. I decided to change the color of one of them and played the devil to get it apart so I could spray paint as I am a total clutz at trying to paint things that small with brush.
I’ve had a couple of Piko buildings for about six years, and a couple Korber cabins for about five.
The glue finally gave out in the past couple of weeks, and my usually useful styrene cement just didn’t
hold very well.
Finally, I tried the clear cement used on sprinkler systems. It’s not easy to use, as the applicator is
awfully large, and I had nothing else handy. I glued the walls together and held it fast with rubber bands.
They are together and holding. I did the roofs with some adjustable edge clamps I got at Harbor Freight.
Made the angle of the roof pieces, used two clamps to secure the roof. Then I glued the two pieces from
the inside, and took a big clamp and pulled the center of the roof together.
After about 20 minutes, solid, not warped. Now to see how long it will survive in the Sacramento heat.
Don’t see why you couldn’t use an artist brush with the pvc cement instead of the big applicator! I think it would depend on the type of plastic whether or not the pvc cement would work! An interesting experiment, let us know how it works out!
I didn’t want to either dissolve the brush or fuse it solid. So i was careful. Next time I’m in a tool store, I’ll look for those little throwaway brushes. They should work fine.
Dick: I tried the clear stuff for PVC pipe on a Piko Chalet, it only held foe a few months (San Diego county). I redid it with superglue and used the black stuff for ABS pipe as if it were “tub and tile caulk”. IOW: painted on the inside of the building and joint. The ABS glue seems to holding better that the PVC stuff I had used earlier.