I don’t remember the ‘correct’ name for these devices, I’ve only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors. I’m wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss. I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn’t see them, perhaps don’t stock them.
Anyone used them and can recommend them… or not?
JaRRell
I have used these repeatedly in car stereo instalation without failure. Never had one come open, or lose power. I plan on using them on my main buss. There are several different types of them. You can find them in the automotive section at walmart or any autoparts store like autozone. The ones I use, clamp on the main wire, and have a male spade type connecter that plugs in.
these are the kind I use most.
these are also good for wire close to the same gauge, but hard to adapt for large gauge to small gauge such as 22 ga wire feeders to 14 gauge main buss.
these are the only 2 types of connecters I have used. others may have some better info.
Before you decide to use suitcase connectors, please at least try Posi-Tap connectors. Thet are easier to use, especially in tight spaces, because they require no crimping. You can tie in up to four 22 gauge wires to one bus wire with one Posi-Tap. They are fast, reliable, and the results are stonger than soldering. I’ve used them to wire 59 streelights and building interior lights in about half the time of any other method I’ve ever used. I have no connection with them, just a satisfied customer. You can find out more about them at http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html.
Thank you for the information and the photos, they’ll be a help in locating them!
JaRRell
Jim, I had forgotten about these. Not that I’ve used them, but I have heard of them. I like the idea of connecting for feeders , that might be especially helpful around my turntable area.
Thanks,
JaRRell
I have been around the so called suitcase connector for years, but only in automotive and truck wireing, it was also the first items I checked out if I had a poor connection. Also if the sliding connector spade is crimped at an angle it will partualy cut the second wire. I did think about using them, but saved the expense and got out the ole sodering gun, of which in my personal openion is soooooo much better, and cheeper too…and never a doubt of a good connection…or I would check out as csx stated above, the posi tap…Just my 2 cents…John
One brand name for the suitcase connectors is Scotchlok (though there are many Scotchlok connectors that are not suitcase connectors). Some people swear by them, some swear at them. I believe the key is proper installation, the ‘connector’ part is to be put in place first, then the ‘suitcase’. Don’t try to push the connector into position by just pushing down the cover.
Here is an example:
Installed DCC in 1999, used suitcase connectors for the power bus and the cab bus, have had no problems 8 years later. Still use them on new work too.
Bob
John, I agree with you on the expense part. But, the reason I’m looking into these is that, while in the middle of a benchwork remodeling, I noticed I ain’t all that good at soldering under the bench. Now where the track feeder connects to the rail, no problem… but I’ll bet 1 out of 4 of my under the bench connections were no good, thus I’m looking into alternatives 'cause I’m a terrible solderer… 
JaRRell
JaRRell
You picked a subject that people have very strong opinions on, pro and con. I’ve seen this subject debated numerous times in numerous places.
I’ve used the suitcase connectors (3m brandname is Scotch-Lok) to make feeder connections on modules I’ve built. IMO, they are a fast, reliable way to connect track feeders to a power buss, especially in DCC where you’re not worried about block wiring. They have been mentioned in numerous articles. The primary one that comes to mind is one a few years back by David Barrow, of Cat Mountain fame, in his domino series of articles. He is a very experienced modeler and I figure if they’re good enough for him then well you know. They have have been used in a recent MR project layout.
As I said, I’ve used them or provided them as part of mdules I’ve built for the 4-H group. This gives the kids/parents a way to do wiring with out needing to solder. Just make sure you use the right size wires in the right connector. They are color coded. While HD or Lowe’s may only stock the yellow, blue or red ones. 3M does make them that use 20ga for the tap and 14ga for the run. They are much harder to find, a little more expensive, but you should be able to mail order them off the internet if you look hard enough.
Scotchlock is the best brand. Made by 3M corp. If you use the proper size and crimp correctly they work fine. Sizes are written on the boxes. Some off brands do not work so well. Caveat emptor.
Karl
JeRRel…was just my personal observations of a product in heavy industry. I would go with what ever fits your needs and then go for it. In the home inviorment of a train room they should never give you a problem as they are properly crimped. However forgive me as I am bias about them as I feel they are an emergency repair item as there are far better products out there, as I said, in a home enviorment they should work fine… Yee Gads…I guess Im a suitcase biggot LOL. Take care JeRRel…John
I noted in passing, “I’m not that good at soldering under the benchwork.”
I absolutely, positively DETEST soldering under the benchwork - so I bring all my wiring out to the aisle side of the L girders and do my soldering while seated in a comfortable chair in the aisleway. Actually, most of my wiring is run from terminal block to terminal block and I do quite a bit of “soldering” with a socket wrench. All of my real soldering is done from the top down, a lot of it pre-wiring prior to installation.
When it comes to pain-free electricals, a little pre-planning saves a lot of grief.
As for suitcase connectors, count me in the camp of folks who swear at them. My background is aircraft maintenance, and any aircraft electrician who used them for any purpose aboard anything airborne would do so at risk of his FAA certification. When it comes to flying machinery, “Good enough,” - isn’t.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
So far I have not used them, though I may as time goes on. I’ve been using wire nuts. It does require cutting and stripping the wires, but after that they are pretty easy to use. And it isn’t hard to add or subtract. I don’t have any real objection to soldering, but I have been using child labor (actually older teen) to do a lot of the wiring, and have been haappier with the results with the wire nuts than soldering. Getting the 14 gauge hot takes a bit of patience and preparation.
I think that installed correctly there should be no trouble with the IDCs, in a model railroad environment. Every phone cable, network cable, ribbon cable, etc., is in the same technology family, though these try to be a bit more general purpose.
I’ve tried the suitcase connectors and didn’t like them. I also don’t like soldering under the bench. I came upon a comprimise that works well for me. Instead of securing may power buss wires directly to the bottom of the layout, I have them hung by wire loops 3 to 5 inches below the bottom of the layout. With the wire in this configuration I can get to it easily and soldering is not a problem.
Oh-Oh! I’m in trouble if my trains start flying. [(-D] Just a little humor Chuck. Not flame thrown at you. Being a pilot, I total agree with you about there use in aircraft. I’m against there use in automotive use too.
Hear, hear! I used them once in a fuel pump installation. I’ll never do that again!
See also this forum thread:
http://www.trains.com/TRC/CS/forums/1217657/ShowPost.aspx
Good Luck,
-John
Want some free advice? DO NOT USE THEM.
Some people seem to do fine with suitcase connectors and others don’t. I’m part of the don’t crowd. [):] If you are going to use them, spend the money to get real ScotchLoc connectors. Don’t get the no-name brands at auto stores. They will fail frequently on installation, usually right after you’ve got all the wiring secured in place and then you have to track down the failed connection. Once you find it, you have to cut it off, waste a connector and start again. That’s why I went to Posi-Tap. No stripping, crimping, and it’s east to visually verify you have a connection. If you are running a power bus, you also never have to cut the main bus wires, which is the thing I don’t like about using wire nuts. Just screw it on the bus, strip the end of the feeder, slide it through the second half of the connector, screw them together, and your done. Even if you do something wrong, you just unscrew the connector and try again - you never waste a connector or have to recut wire. I really hate wiring but Posi-Tap’s have made me only annoyed by wiring. [:D]